Jump to content
SAU Community

dilmah

Members
  • Posts

    310
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

Everything posted by dilmah

  1. withdrawn from sale.
  2. good idea! i wonder what the original idea was behind suspending it with rubber bits? maybe the faster you turn the wheel the more help it gives you (centrifugal force, etc.). but hopefully those rubber bands wont deteriorate after a few years in hot sunlight and cold winters and stuff...
  3. Awesome work! Finally it closes properly again Mine didn't have any broken bits inside, but was missing the spring altogether. Get the biggest pin you can find. Probably like a nappy pin (if anyone uses old school cloth nappies anymore lol). Take careful note of that last pic. I found that the pin needs to go exactly where shown for it to work properly (i.e don't put it between the two plastic bits sticking out) as it forces the pin out of place when putting the lid back together if you do. Nice writeup!
  4. It normally holds an emergency flare. I guess the japs use it if you break down in a bad place in the night you set it off and place it on the road a little bit up the road so ppl can slow down. normally removed as part of the compliance process cos they're illegal here or something. (i.e. fireworks and stuff...) I had one in my car cos it was complied ages ago or cos they forgot or whatever, but it kept falling out, so it's just sitting in the garage now. probably wont work anyway cos it's like 15 years old...
  5. +1 for the counterweight. There's another thread on it here. Fixed my problem just the other day, same symptoms as you.
  6. I had this exact problem and I fixed it by following these instructions exactly, and it worked like a dream! It was always rattling around from the day i bought it, but one day it started setting off the horn on almost every corner I took. It was funny for all my friends, but had to be fixed. I did everything mentioned in the first post except for "Disconnect other connection of airbag wire", as it was too hard to unclip, and wasn't necessary as the previous step already disconnected the other end. I ended up just cable tying the counterweight to the brackets inside the steering wheel cos I figured Nissan put it in there for a reason so I didn't want to just throw it away. Thanks!!
  7. Well, I found one of these at a wreckers from a dihatsu or something and installed it inline before the washer jets. Looks like it's done the trick. haven't seen much leakage since I did that about a month ago. Sorta looks like this, but the one i found was black. When installing it, it'll only allow water to flow one way. Not sure how it works, since I thought by it allowing water to flow towards the jets it'll still leak, but it doesn't leak and my washer jets still work fine
  8. well, that's a good idea. i'll have to try that valve out & I'll let you know how i go. They both leak, but it's mostly the passenger side that's much worse, sprays onto the windscreen sometimes and drips down the side of the wheel arches, etc. maybe i'll go try find one from a wreckers this weekend.
  9. OMG I thought I was the only one with this stupid problem! It's so annoying, seems to mainly happen when I hit full boost or take a quick corner. I use it as my G-force meter (Lol). But seriously I wanna fix this too. I just avoid using the windscreen washers, but it still keeps happening. How would a 1-way valve work? Cos you need water to pass from the reservoir to the jet, water never goes the other way anyway. Hopefully someone has a fix for this.
  10. Item: Unichip Location: Rowville, Vic Item Condition: Excellent Reason for selling: Don't Need it! Price: offer atm Payment Method: Whatever Extra Info: Used on my car (Magna). Have no use for it now. Prefer pickup but postage is possible Pictures: Anything else just ask
  11. Yeah, unbelievable really. I told one place i rang up that they have to beat $260... the manager rings me back 5 mins later and says there's no way they can get even close, their *cost* price is $290 per tyre! That was Beaurepairs or something... Anyway, i've ordered mine from the local Tyre Plus just up the road from work corner Ferntree Gully rd and Springvale rd. $320/ea. fitted and balanced. I only needed 2 for the fronts anyway. When you add up all the shipping costs and fitting and balancing by a local shop, it'll probably work out around the same.
  12. Man, Tempe Tyres is so cheap! $260 each! If only they were in Vic or there was a place in Vic that had these prices. In Vic the cheapest so far I've found is Steve's Wheels @ $319 each. I just called them both. That's a $60 difference!
  13. how much are the FK452s in 285/35/18? I've got 285s on my car all round at the moment, but they're Sumitomo's (approx $390 to $400 per tire at that size) I was going for smaller tires this time to hopefully get better performance/grip even though it's slightly slimmer tires.
  14. I just got another quote for the FK452 in 265/35/18 @ $325 each fitted and balanced. I'll keep you updated
  15. i'm looking for some of these tyres at the moment as well. can anyone recommend a place in south east melbourne that has good prices on these? FK452 in 265/35/18. Lowest I've found so far is $349 per tyre. I'm considering either these or the Bridgestone Adrenalin's RE001, which are about $420 per tyre...
  16. awesome work! what did you use to make that?
  17. I've already sent this to Justin in a PM a while ago, but for the benefit of everyone I'll post it up here as well in case it helps someone. I never really got to the root of the problem, I just disappeared. I took it to RE Customs and they spent several hours on the dyno, etc. trying to reproduce the problem and they couldn't see it happen on demand. It was very intermittent and when it would happen, most of the time the only way to make it get full boost again was to turn the engine off and back on again. RE Customs blew air through the wastegates of the turbos cos they thought they could be sticking, but it seemed fine. They told me the next step in troubleshooting would be to remove the turbos to get a better look at the wastegates, etc, but in a GTR, that's an 8 hour job cos they pretty much have to remove the left hand side of the engine bay to get to them. I didn't go down that route cos it seemed to disappear and stop happening. I mentioned it to racepace and they seemed to think it could also be the boost solenoid. I never asked them to look at it though. Since RE Customs had a look it's only happened once more and that was more than 3-4 months ago. I've since done a few more basic mods and it hasn't reappeared and it's been running fine. Other suggestions were that it could be a faulty blow off valve or the engine protecting itself from overboost/pinging. My car has had the boost restrictor removed, so it runs at 1 bar of boost all the time (about 14-15psi). New stock turbos (replaced by previous owner not long before I bought the car). Good luck in tracking down your problem. If you ever track down the problem, be sure to post it up and let us know
  18. Thanks bec, I'll see you first thing when i get there re the license. Are there still places available for cars & drivers?
  19. Hey bec, last time i was at deca i signed up on the day for one of those AACS licenses. I don't think I got a membership number or anything, how can I get this checked before I go up, cos I don't want to sign up for another one
  20. This sounds good. I'll probably see you there. Definitely go etag, will be much quicker.
  21. I'll be there, it'll be EPIC! woo!
  22. First car: Toyota Corolla 1976 Second car: Subaru Impreza GX MY04 (2004) Third car: Nissan Skyline R33 GT-R VSpec 1996 (Current)
  23. email sent
  24. I think I might come along to one of these & see what it's all about. Should be fun..
×
×
  • Create New...