Truffles

Your current brakes are not brembo...

Correct. It's about 4-6 weeks, I'm not 100% on the time frame, but you incur a fee for it and move on.

You won't be granted an exemption, so I have no idea why you keep thinking you will.

As mentioned above, what your car makes at the wheels is completely irrelevant in regards to getting an exemption. It would make considerably less than the 125kw/t threshold at the wheels but given it is power at the flywheel and it is a FACTORY figure, you won't be allowed an exemption. You won't be successful in being granted an exemption to drive high-powered vehicles through hardship or any other reason, given you just went out and purchased a car you can't legally drive for more than you could have purchased a rwc you could. You'll be told to buy another legal car or sell it and then buy another legal car. Ignorance is no excuse for not following the law. As mad said, your confidence that you can fluant and that you'll receive an exemption to drive it would be the same confidence you showed before you wrapped it around a tree and killed yourself.

Forum rules do require that you need to put a price on an ad. As you can see from the above, it would certainly help your cause. Probably will stop people offering your 5k for it too.

Mad just nailed it. I know people get attached to their cars, but you'd be considerably out of pocket to properly tubro your existing car when compared to selling it and buying a factory turbo.

D2 aren't the highest quality coilovers, but 6 months is a bit much. Things can happen though. When I worked in reatil, sometimes we would get products though that the odd one was crap through coincidence. You could just have been unlucky and received on that had a manufacturing defect.

If you're a Queensland Provision license holder, the R33 GTS-T isn't P-plate legal. Makes over 130kw/tonne and will be rejected from exemption.

It's not about money being an issue, it's just about being smart about your money. By the time you've finished upgrading everything, you could have purchased a GT-T manual coupe that will be faster for cheaper. There's not much point in spending all this money on your N/A if you want to turbo it in the future. The best choice (money wise) is to keep the N/A stock, save more money and then when you want to then upgrade to a modified GT-T.

Not sure about any vids, but i'd recommend downloading a copy of the R32 GT-R workshop manaul. Given it was sold locally, there's a full english copy available (about 500 pages in a PDF) online. Handy resource to have and will tell you were every bolt/nut/screw it located on your car.

Figures. I've heard of this happening, they tell people they still have a car and then when you get there they tell you that it just sold and then try and sell you on some other POS.

Power FC are becomming pretty outdated by now. Nistune offers the same ability for a lower price.

Don't think it was found. It was the owner himself to put the car in the position in the photo.

Would be the best bet to do something like this. A decent 32 shell, one that doesn't have already existing rust problems, will probably set you back $1500 to 2k.

7k Could buy a respectable one, but you do need to be patient. You'd almost certainly spend money on it though. You can't expect to limp into the market with imports and expect to be satisfied with not spending money after purchase. Some really well sorted R33 GTS-T are going for as much as 12k+, which seems a huge difference when others are going for 6-7k. With the 6-7k cars, you can usually expect to spend a decent amount of money to have a clean car. I limped into the market with a 5.5k R32 GTS-T a few years ago and I've spent another 4-5k on the car to fix up stuff and make decent enough power. Be patient and keep an eye out, the cars that usually float around for a while are the ones people realise aren't worth the money (not always the case). In the meantime think about whether you want to spend a bit more in the short term to save spending a lot more in the long term.

To be blunt, it's not worth doing all that many performance mods to an auto N/A skyline. You'll never get value for money. Are you going an aftermarket ECU? A nistune board (which you can't have put in an R34 Rb25 ECU) would cost the best part of $1000 to have installed and tuned and I'd be very suprised to see more than an 8-10kw increase, if that.

First port of call would be clean the AAC valve and clean the AFM with some specialised cleaner. Chances are it will solve your problem.

What i've found is the cleanest engine bays have re-painted engine covers and an actual clean engine bay itself. Usually scrubbed and repainted when the engine is out of the car. Best basic things to do would be to look at just re-doing any old vacuum lines and clamps that are worn. Give everything within reason a degrease and a clean. Maybe relocate your battery and throw a decent oil cooler/relocation setup and an oil catch can. If you're willing to go for it, do the rocker and cam cover. The R32 RB26 covers tend to be quite ratty these days (mine certainly are) and are often missing chips of paint. I think the R34 GTR RB26 covers are a sharp colour.

You'll need to post this in the "wanted to buy" section just down in the classifieds. Also, to be honest I don't think you'll get a shell for as cheap as you're willing to pay. Just a guess.

It makes 12:14 pm AWKW. Watch is ECU is also water resistant.

Wouldn't pay up in that region for a non-ADM GTR.

As said above, neary every 32-34 skyline bar less than 100 were imported. They stopped making the r32 GTS-T in 1993. The year 1998 on anything would be the year imported. It should say what year the car was manfactured on that blue plate with Japanese on it, that's the build plate. The idle issues can be a number of things as they're all 20+ years old these days. I currently have the same problem going on. A quick google search will come up with people's similar problems and some possible solutions for you. If you have any questions about it don't hesitate to post in the appropriate section. This is sub-forum is for people creating threads directly relating to the importation or related process of vehicles, not about imports themselves as the majority of the site is based around imports. Welcome and enjoy the world of Skyline ownership. Look after your car and it will look after you.

All r33's are imports. I'm curious as to what makes this a "nismo" r33

Really? LOL.

Cut down for the sake of not requoting, but extremely well put. The world is a very different place to what it was 20-25 years ago. The Skyline went from 296,000 R32 units sold to 217,000 for the R33 down to 64,000 for the R34, to what Nissan considered the "progression" of the Skyline to the V35. Which is a good car but it doesn't embody what the Skyline moniker had been defined as over the past two decades. It was like everything else in the post 2000 era. There's too many reasons not to make cars like this anymore, regardless of the fact sales data may well be poor. The Toyota 86 is the only real progression in a real Japanese 'drivers' cars in a long time and despite its appeal, it's nothing like the big 5 Japanese manufacturers were putting out in the early to mid 90's. It was a golden age but unfortunately lik the US muscle car golden age, the world just eventually out grows it.