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Everything posted by Alkemist
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1988 Nissan Cefiro - Adelaide
Alkemist replied to Alkemist's topic in For Sale (Private Whole cars only)
Have had a lot of inquery but car is still here. Looking to sell by weeks end. $3400 ono -
Great project car! $3800 ono Needs engine rebuild and probably a coat of paint. Used only as occasional weekend car, due to neglect the engine (original cefiro rb20det) has let go. Instead of rebuild, looking to sell. Was a great car to drive. Will be sad to let go but do not have the time or dedication to restore it with current commitments. Imported through Kansai a few years ago now. Is fairly stock although has had manual conversion with cushion button clutch and lightened flywheel, r34 sidemount, k&n pod, stereo (amp, splits, sub), turbo-timer. Ride height and exhaust was modified in japan. Would not take too much for an enthusiast to get it back to former glory. Since time of photos, the purple plastic weather shields have been removed from above door windows. Contact Jason Phone 0422 277 397 or Email [email protected]
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Unplugged the o2 Sensor. Car is running a hell of a lot better now. Idle is back to normal. Still something doesn't seem 100% right. How would having no o2 sensor affect the operation of the car?
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Hey. Have a GTR fuel pump in my Cef. Obviously it always whines, and even louder under acceleration. Now here's the problem... When the car is idle, can hear the fuel pump stay in 'hi-flow' mode, sometimes cutting in and out of hi and low flow. This eventually floods the cylinders and fouls the plugs. Revs sometimes remain at say 2000rpm, other times revs go hunting, dropping to say 600, then lifting to 1500. What could be causing this? Guessing, Ignition Module, ECU or o2 Sensor? Thanks, Jason
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Looking for Stagea S2 or R34 GTT stock (side-mount) intercooler. PM offer.
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Was going to start a new thread, but may aswel continue this one. Was looking for a bit more power,maybe 180-200rwkw, but I was sort of hoping to keep the stock bar. The IC i've got sitting here I would need to cut the bar to fit it in, which I don't really want to do. Is there any aftermarket bars, that line up to the same dimentions as the stock bar, but can house a front mount, or alternately, will the 34tt side mount flow enough to hold that power. Unlikely? Max I would be boosting would be 14psi, on a 20t, or 25t hi-flow.
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Wtb: Window Visors
Alkemist replied to Alkemist's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
Thanks mate, found one at a wreckers. I'll keep you in mind though for next time they fall off Cheers anyway -
After the purplish A31 Visors that sit on the door frame above each side window. One of mine just fell off Do Nissan sell them anymore?
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Firstly, thanks for all the help and suggestions. I had initially expected the worst, this being, the exhaust cam had shattered inside the head needing a rebuild, however this was no the case. The tip of the CAM, which connects to the CAS has snapped off but the rest had remained in tact. Thanks to the champs at Boostworx, we replace the Exhaust CAM, CAS, and while we were at it got the bulk of the major service out the way. Tensioner/Idler, waterpump, most belts etc. Was extremely pleased with the quality of work and service. All work came in under expected cost. So for the time being the car is purring like only an RB can.
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I had a factory Auto with footbrake, converted to manual, but the center console, now with a handbrake has the 2 switches, "Power/Hold" and Electric Arial. I think you might be ok as long as you haven't bid on a console with the footbrake release.
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Hey jaik, what off-set / tyres is on the FK car there. Looks really clean.
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Thanks Roy, exactly the reply I was looking for, however I don't think it would be as cheap as 800$. As far as I know, without pulling the engine apart yet, the CAS has had it, and the passenger side CAM shaft drive has shattered inside the engine. Would the fragments have filtered down through the engine? Or would they be contained just in the CAM shaft. The only reason I bring up a 25 transplant would be if the engine required a total rebuild to get back on the road, of which I would seriously consider spending a little more to get the 25t instead. Power is the last thing on my mind atm, I just want a reliable fix that will keep the car on the road. Also it is a stock RB20DET Cefiro, so the engine/loom etc is slightly different to the R32, if that makes any difference.
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Atm I am not looking for much power, I was chasing about 200kw with the 20, so I am not too fussed about it. Going 25/30, I'm guessing would cost about 5k, with 25 gearbox etc and labour. What would be required to make it fit in the Cefiro, will it just bolt straight up?
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Well it seems the Crank Angle Sensor has seized up and literally shattered the Cam Shaft Drive in my Rb20det Cefiro, so I left with a dillemma. Is it worth sourcing out a used/new CAS and cam shaft drive and while im at it get the Timing belt changed over, or should I seriously consider dropping in a 25det. As far as I know, after fixing this, most of the major problems and servicing will be out of the way for the 100,000k rb20det, and if putting the 25det in is the more viable option, there is no way of telling if I will run into just as many problems with the 25. What price should I be looking for, with used CAS, cam shaft drive, timing belt and labour. Atm I am looking for the cheapest long-term fix.
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+1 for consult cable+usb converter
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Thought about same side inlet/outlet intercooler? Then you can pretty much use the factory pipework.
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Perfect mate exactly what I needed, Yellow/Green it is... however, how do I wire up the sensor? It has just 1 wire thats needs to attach to the ecu. I wired it up to the Yellow/Green one, but nothing happens, car works fine, speedo etc all work but not the device? Any ideas?
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I have found a couple of rb20det ecu pinouts online but they have conflicting information. Does anyone have a definate A31 Rb20det ECU pinout. Alternately, does anyone know which wire is needed to connect an external 'digital speed measuring device'? To me it looked like there may be two wires to each pin, +/-. If this is the case, how is it possible to connect the device to the ecu, if the device only has 1 wire available. Any info would be appreciated, thanks.