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Boss-zilla

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Everything posted by Boss-zilla

  1. to me it looks like it is external, the grease is wiped away from the rack end towards the tie rod end. But thats just my 2c
  2. Dont know, been 6 months since I last drove it. Im here its in Vic
  3. I remember when that car first appeared in Vic drift days, i assume you got it after that? Creatd have been our only tuner since then and now a good mate of mine works there too.
  4. N/P, I have done a fair bit of wiring on my 32 (have a look in the motorspor section, Dane and I were talking about it and I put a little info up) and Im back in WA so if you get stuck let me know and ill help you out. Cheers Ross
  5. As above for clutch, brake is for the stop lights.
  6. Ok, so the set up i was talking about is about half way between Whitfords and Edgwater stations. I think it is only monitoring traffic flow/numbers because i can not see any camera's as we fly by on the train.
  7. My now wife got stuck at the lights on the canning bridge one day and everyone was happy to beep her but only one person (after about nealy 20 min just as i got there) got out and pushed her out of the way. This has scared the crap out of her so if it even sounds like the car will stall she starts to panic. So from this I make a point of trying to help when ever i can, as they say karma is a b*tch. So much so that I have even had an article written about me (the persons dad was a writer for a local paper) and this is the only way i could see it making an effect. Wait till one of the reporters from TT or ACA get stuck, help them out and then get a story done on how import drivers are all nice, but i dont see that happening. Ross
  8. Since returning to WA I have noticed a set of these on the Mitchell FWY. http://www.ceos.com.au/pdfs/TIRTL-overview.pdf Unsure if it has been posed yet. Basicly they are an all in one fix/portable unit that can detect speed/red light camera/traffic count depending on what they set them up for. The ones i have seen are fixed but i have not noticed a camera near by. Ill get a more exact location later, and it is on both sides of the fwy. cheers PS: Pics are from victoria.
  9. The one I'm talking about is an aus delivered one, as said can be difficult to get it right but not impossible. Cheers
  10. I would run twins with a stagered start (ie:one comes on then the other). Also have you thought about putting in a r32/3/4 rear cradle?? Mate had a 31 with a 33 cradle in it for better set up in the rear end. So far its only tacked in so can not say how well it works yet. Cheers Ross
  11. OGTR - R35 in Geelong today.
  12. Yup, wa is up to 9 letters now. Here is a photo of my old car with the plates from DPI (aka normal vic plates)
  13. +1 for more pics info on diff/trans cooler. Once installed (assuming they were not on there to start with) did you notice a difference in the condition (or operating temp) of the oil?? Cheers
  14. I have seen a few 32 one's made to fit the 180, looks good.
  15. Two I can think of: -SMIKAZ -BIGNJPN Both on 32's.
  16. Yes the two red ones are, there is a joining bar at the top and bottom. The orange one can come out (clips in) once the clear is removed. All are glued in place, wish I had taken photo's of the one I pulled apart sorry. Cheers
  17. Very good read, I have been keeping an eye on this thread. When it comes to side intrusion bars is the following any good?? I like it as it seems to better to get in and out off (not that this is a big concern for me) I have a r32 and being over 6 foot I will be moving the seat back a bit. So is it better to have the main hoop mounted to the floor in the corner were it rises for the rear seat or is there similar strength in moving it back so it sits on the rise were the front of the rear seat is like bellow? Cheers Ross
  18. Agree with Duncan, Great Thread. Duncan you have done alot of work on this and will give others good ideas. I was speaking to Dane last year when he was looking into the painless kits (http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Painless-Wiring-Harnesses-t225555.html&hl=painless+wiring) about doing a "off the shelf" replacement kit for track cars. While I have not got any further (lost my job at xmas = no money to play with) I am still planning to do it. I am looking at using the Deutsch bulk head connectors to run through the fire walls for the looms and power. They are a bit on the $$$ side but from what I am told it is what the WRC guys use with great success (the metal type). A good fuse box is the only thing I have not been able to find. As for the wiring I plan on using teflon coated wiring. This wiring can handle more current than standard so you can reduce the size used on most circuits saving even more weight, and the overall cost differance is small.
  19. Dane, Mate your car has come up clean!! No problems with the wireing in the end?? Cheers Ross
  20. its the rear defogger unit the antenna unit is up on the passanger side 'c' pillar near the roof. Are you doing another 32-4 conver??
  21. check the earth at the back (firewall) of your coil packs. Mine was just loose and once the motor heated up it would lose contact, stall and then start 5 mins later once it had cooled.
  22. good to hear, bye bye cluster you are the weakest link. As this will be going in a gtst I would also like to know if there is an option for the long and lats, again not something ill get for a while but the good old 'buy once, do it right'. Cheers Ross
  23. May be a silly question but is the wheel speed be displayed in k/h. Looking at the list, i can remove the cluster and use these units.
  24. I like the idea of one unit that can be expanded/ further developed for the cost (or there abouts) of getting the guages plus I would rather give my money to a local.
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