Boss-zilla

I would head to your local Pedders and get them to do an inspection (think its like $15) and they will tell you what needs replacing and what should be looked at in the future. Well worth the money. Cheers

Ok found some for you hope it helps http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...&hl=R34+TCS http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/El...&hl=R34+TCS http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...&hl=R34+TCS http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Wa...&hl=R34+TCS

Have you had a look in the "general maitance" section im sure this has been cover before.

Check the ground wire that you taped into with the eboost. Generally i have found this problem has been because people have taped into the illumanation wire by mistake, which acts like a ground wire untill you turn on the lights then it has a positive power. Hope this makes sense.

What do people use in a R32?? I was going to get a bar made for between the towers like above but in the 32 this would also mean the removal of most of the front half of the parcel shelf. Cheers Ross

I know the housings/cradle are different but not shore about the internals. Hope that half helps.

Correct as above however from memory when i removed mine i cut the carpet where it goes under the heater box. You dont have to do this if you remove the metal supports that the centre console (one that holds cd player a guages etc) but you will have to put some effort into it as it is velcroed to the fire wall. Cheers

*sigh, waits for Tatslotto man to ring saying i won the jackpot*

My old R34.

Nothing wrong with the r33 as a drift car. Chris D competed in Drift Australia for a few years in a striped out r33 (as did a quite a few other drivers) and his only problem was a lack of power compared to the other teams, also my best mate has been drifting for 5+ years in a r33. The key, as with all track cars, is the set up. The current set up on his r33 is great feels like the car is on rails. Ross

I think it depends on what you get. Here is a pic of my old R34 with 19's However i would not put these on my R32 as it would look crap.

Like this?

Do you have an alarm?

Also the first rule of thumb when fault finding is to look at anything you have done that may, stress may have contributed to the fault. If anyone had asked me what to look at if they had this problem i would have said the same. 1.Check the connection (are they pluged in?) 2.Check the fuse's 3.Get a test light and check there is power to the connectors. So as you can see i was not having a go at you and next time when asking for help IF YOU think that someone is having a go there is NO NEED to write an abusive PM to said person because in future they and others that hear about it may not help.

Like i said i was not having a go at you as i have seen people do this. infact the r32's can have two plugs in series for the head light globs and while changing them people have left one unpluged. There is no need to go off like you have as sometimes it is that easy also that nice little PM you sent has been reported, next time dont join a forum then abuse people.

As far as i know they are completely diff.

Stupid question, did you plug the new globs in?? Not having a go only other thing it could be.

Its not a capaciter (well not in any i have seen) they operate using a bi-metalic strip. When one glob goes out - less current draw = less heat, making the bi-metalic strip bend in a smaller arc then cooling down and making contact in a shorter time hence the 'fast' flash. Cheers Ross

All new cars are designed this way to let the person know that a indicator light is out, it is a saftey feature. You do have a good point with the flasher unit it is another possibilty but will be hard to find one that will fit and do what you want it to do.

i think the question would be why do you want to. Generally they flash fast to let you know that one of your globes is blown, so what you have to do is reduce the amount of current that is being drawn. If you want to do this the best way is to install LED lights but not the ones that are ready made, you will have to make your own. The ready made ones have extra parts in them that creates the same current draw so they flash at the normal rate. Hope that helps Cheers Ross

Ambient temp is bellow the horns on the bonnet lock support. If you could take a photo of the other plugs i can tell you what they are. Cheers

Has almost everthing and the ext warranty for everything as well, i think it was just under 50k for the after sales service and the warranty's. The one im talking about is #2 (includer the dealers) on the list. Will be good to see two out on the track.

I posted this in the another thread here but a mate of mine (and this is no joke) has ordered his from Nissan. Arrival end of Jan. He ordered alot of the extra's and total cost ended just above $215k

For those interested here is a rough brake down of cost on a Aust. delivered GTR. 150k - car 6k - for super silver 6k - s/s exaust 9k - 22in wheels just under 44k - warranty (inc ext) and after care TOTAL COST (above plus dealer del. etc) $215k should be delivered around end of Jan next year. BTW this is not my car but i have been asked to race it at club days (the guy had a broken back and can not race it) The owner of the dealer's one is arriving in december. Cheers

2nd that! Good luck guys