petern

spotted 2 Bayside blue R34 GTRs cuising together (followed by a white EVO) yesterday on the M7 north bound just after GWH on ramp

you can try these guys http://www.otomoto.com.au/showroom.htm

you should give your airflow meter a clean up with brake cleaner too might give the injector cleaner a go

how is your fuel economy? if its bad then i would look at changing the spark plugs. Same low idle happened to my car recently - usually morning cold starts starts high and stay there until the motor warms up. Had shocking fuel economy too. Changed the 3500ish km cooper plugs back to the platinum (had only 10k kms on them) and it revs high and back to normal again

I post this on another thread but here it is R33_All_Engine_Manual I used this when doing my 100k service and it explains everything

I got mine done at Sydney's competition coatings over a year ago now. The main areas still has a shine to it, but pretty sure it won't go dull like you see on the inside

Those are some serious mods! Your best bet is to go full after market ECU and get some local to tune it. These remaps suit more to guys with standard to hi flow turbos that have the "standard" modification

IF RB25DET, then: 185kw with what you have 200Kw with remap or PFC

here it is R33_All_Engine_Manual.pdf front page

it might be the fan speed control unit - not sure if R34 is the same as R33 no harm in checking anyway http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ai...sh-t197283.html

sounds like your mechanically mind and have things sorted out.... but you can also check: -replace O2 sensor (as you mentioned) -clean the AFM wire with brake cleaner -check coil packs for hair line crack and use silicon to fill out - to reduce miss fires -clean the idle control unit -not engine related, but check caster rod bushes for leaks I can upload the r33 service manual if you like? 23mb pdf file

I think this was from SK R33 GB thread "Standard (new) height is 380 mm front and 370 mm rear" For the OP: Definitely get a front swaybar BNF24Z whiteline Swaybar 24mm-h/duty Blade adjustable

i think you just answered your own question in that last sentence...... having the the wheels in the air for an extended period would put pressure on the shocks - weight of the wheels and brakes. I know when I disconnect the shocks on the rear on my 1600, i can push down on the back and bounces a fair bit. I would say shocks are stuffed!

Some pics from the datto boys HERE

Parts for 100,000km service for R33 rb25det Lander Motor group - Blacktown - 14 March NI-21010-21U26 - pump assy-water - $147.59 NI-13028-5L327 - belt-timing - $83.09 NI-13070-5L300 - tensioner assy-belt - $93.38 NI-13074-58S00 - puley assy-idler - $275.82 NI-13042-16V00AU - seal-oil, camshaft - $16.81 NI-13510-10Y10 - seal-oil, crankshaft - $22.96 NI-15208-H8911AU - filter assy-oil - $9.49 These are retail prices, i managed to get the water pump and belt cheaper They had all these parts in stock! I ended up buying ilder and tensioner at Autobarn for $165 and $47

Exactly what I have so agree.....having said that mine is showing some surface rust in a few exposed areas(at the bottom) was installed 08/2007 I would get a better cat though

have a look for yourself...you will clearly see the flat spot where the wastegate is that everyone is talking about There cheap, get it done.

I just checked the monitor On the side controls Advanced- Display mode - select Full Screen

When i first got mind it had bleeding too, but i have really taken notice of it since. I came from a dieing 19in CRT and was very impressed I adjusted the resolution using the my GPUs ATI software. R31Nismoid - yep, that's the one, come on .5in........

i have the same cat and cat back(brand any way) Above as, just go the single piece dump/front pipe - 1 less gasket to worry about Got mine from just jap and fitted fine, its a x-force bell mouth unit but its not listed on their website anymore - only JJR ones

I know how you feel with the monitor choices. After a lot of research and this thread on whirlpool convinced me the Benq E2200HD was the choice, but the best part it was only $233 at MSY (3-4 weeks ago) 30 pages!!!!! http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/forum-replies.cfm?t=1106845 this at full naive resolution 1950x1080 and can still read text fine

I had my fan die suddenly 2 weeks ago... Checked all the fuses and they were OK. Did the climate control test and come up with 20 - meaning OK After seeing this thread, checked out the fan speed controller unit - took off the black plastic part and it looked ok, but when i lifted the electronic board I found the issue straight away... check out the pic to see the solder of one of the connections came off. Thanks for this thread Guilt-Toy, you didn't waste your time. Saved $95 and the hassle of trying to find another one.

Last night spotted maroon R33 GTST with no wing and white spokie wheels on Old Windsor Road - sounded tough 30 sec later spotted white R34 GTT on Sunnyholt rd intersection This morning spotted HERTBO along Norwest Blvd - had also seen this car a couple of weeks earlier at Unigroup

for those mods you mentioned and the low boost, i would say 160-170kw. boost is up to 11-12psi and you should see around 200kw, but no more then 14psi as your turbo will not last long for your target of 220kw, you will need: hi-flow turbo fuel pump ECU - PFC or remap

This is the main selling point. Considering your in Townsville, I would assume you are limited to tuning workshops. Vist the workshops, talk to the tuners and see what they use/recommend. My R33 has a remapped standard ECU.