quink

sold!

lol still for sale if anyones interested.. will post up here if sold (which i dont think for awhile) but ill leave it up till then!

Item: Passenger side door mirror Brand: OEM To suit: It came on an R32 gts-t/GTR, it came off a GTR. Location: Melbourne Item Condition: Very Good condtion, hardly any scratches. full electric, got it as a pair as i replaced the drivers side one. Colour: Gunmetal grey Price: $60 + postage to where if needed. Contact: Pm me

ok well that sounds good.. ill grab the stock parts anyway just in case.. Here's a pic of the intake. So anyone know of a good shop you've had good experience with for RWC around the abbotsford area?

thanks for the info.

Hi guys, Quick Q, Just sold the skyline, and thinkin of buyin a NSW RX7 FD and registering in VIC, and its got a few mods as above, Cat back exhaust, a CF intake pipe thingo, aftermarket SMIC, and power fc. Do/should i need to take these all off before getting RWC? hopefully i'll be getting the stock parts but unsure atm.. i guess taking off the hand controller should be enough for the PFC.. but all the other bits? i guess it depends on the place, but do most RWC places ping u for mods?

Car's sold! sigh.. very sad.. end of an era for me..

just a quick note and a bump: Nismo gearknob on it.. (those darkish matt brass look ones) Happily handling the melbourne heatwave. You can't get a better deal at $9500 for such a clean gtst!

Sorry mate only desire the 2000-2002 RX-7 FD. or cash of course (which will go to the rx7 .

Not really, its pretty low as it is already.. my wallet is hurting.. but send me a PM of your offer and i'll seriously consider it.

Pretty quiet out there. Price drop to $9,500. would be nice if i could get my rx7 Now also on carsales. http://www.carsales.com.au/pls/carsales/...icle_id=6669803 get in quick!

Adding some beautiful pictures (for the memories ) credit to a great photographer friend of mine and some elbow grease to give it a good polish.

New fuel pump- genuine walbro 255L/hr unit. Runs super smooth! revs very nicely. New thermostat, new coolant, radiator flush. Price drop to $10,000. Very clean R32 , come have a look! would love to sell to fellow sau members, going on carsales soon.

just fyi.. it was my fuel pump, the fuel pump prime noise was obviously something else i was hearing.. Exchanged it for a Walbro 500hp unit.. car starts perfectly.. boosts better than ever! revs all the way up to 8k with NO issues no hesitations no signs of pinging... aww i'm in love with the car again!

sent pm about drivers door mirror if u have it and if its gun metal gray

ok.. it was an error.. i disconnected the sensor before to try it out.. reset the ecu and tried again, the sensor was fine.. worked out no fuel was pumping and the fuel pump is dead.

Hi All, Car wont start, it cranks fine, but wont turn over like there's no spark, car was working fine before, and the backstory is within(http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R32-Gtst-Struggles-Rev-t249296.html) So checked ECU codes and it gave me code 13. coolant temp sensor circuit. So then i go and measure the ohms on the sensor and it gives 2.5kohms exactly. and turn the car to ignition, and measure the voltage, 3.5V. (although i believe normal cold is 3.0V) So according to another thread that's ok values for the sensor. if i unplugged the coolant temp sensor earlier tried starting it.. then plugged it back in and checked diagnostics after. would that give the error? or if it was ok it'll just give 55 "OK"? or does it give historic errors? is there a way to reset all codes? should i just change coolant temp sensor anyway? isit available at supercheap?

hey julz, i got this problem too. does it still rev up fine on half throttle? when your boost gauge is on 0? and when on boost it struggles like crap.. but the boost gauge is still full? i think this is rich and retard mode.. (this is my issue) or does the boost fully cut and u get a big jerk.. coz that could be a fuel cut. (this is not my issue) anyway will be watchin for the answer.. some ppl say could be coolant temp sensor, afm, o2 sensor.. i think there's a diagnostic mode u can put your ECU in to check the sensors.. give that a go (google search the sky is the limit- the skyline book of something) tells ya how to do it.

hey great investigative work, i'm watchin this thread too, coz i got the same problem but mine's intermittent. no spark just cranks away. so ill test this guy too. the ignitor/power transistor is the black flat box thing at the back of the engine on the sparkplug cover right? let us know if replacing that guy (and how much it cost) fixed the issue.

great now the car won't start . it was a pretty warm day and it was sitting outside. cranks fine but no ignition... I heard the fuel pump prime... sounded not as nice a whiney sound as usual... coils? anyone can fit all the symptoms together? time to bring to a shop I think

um after some reading.. its running way lean?? yech.. edit: hrm.. based off an O2 sensor? and is a theoretical value? after some further reading it sounds like my car fits the R&R mode. but isit doing the fuel cut thing? what happens besides things exploding when you run very lean? would it act as i described above?

an update.. got to my car which was cold.. opened up the bolt, and no liquid flowed out.. i'm like hrm.. there should be no air in there right? did the.. noticed one of the lines had crusty sludge in it.. took it out cleaned it.. then fill up via radiator cap.. start the car running.. closed cap, and squeezed radiator hose until all the air came out and no more bubbles.. closed the bolt. problem still occured.... an interesting thing is that when i turned the heater on full hot, i could boost abit (albeit still jerky) Also looking at the A/F ratio on turbo timer (i know its not accurate) it was running way RICH.. on 18 instead of 12 (from before) if i listen closely to the vacuum bottle (with the vc surge sticker) on the right of the radiator i hear a slight squeel.. is there a puncture in a hose or something? is it meant to squeel? when i throttle it it squeels a little louder then the pssshhht noise although at this point i'm not sure if its from the bottle itself.

i doubt that.. i only splashed to the side of the plenum and below.. but i wouldn't discount it.. i'll be checking that.

yes. ran the car. left the top bolt off (where it says do not remove when hot) and radiator cap off... ran for 20min to get coolant flowing.. then plugged rad cap up.. let it bubble out more.. it never really stopped bubbling tho, revved it.. let the liquid flow out (still had tiny bubbles in it .. i wouldn't call it a continous flow of green) plugged it up while the hole was full. but i reckon if i took it off.. there'd still be bubbles in it.. it seems to suck air in the hole when idling with the bolt off. isit meant to be solid continous liquid coming out? coz it never seemed to do that even after 20min.. might try again tonite.. but can air pockets in coolant cause such a significant boost issue?

Thanks for the help guys keep the ideas comin! nah didn't take off any intercooler pipes.. got stock IC.. yeh it was dark by then so i checked via torchlight.. will check again this arvo.. oo oo.. just thought of something else.. when i removed the radiator with cowling and fan.. its pretty tight on a bottle(no idea what that is) on the right side and some pipes.. and when putting it back in we struggled to slot it in for awhile potentially pushing against those items next to the radiator.. is there anything there that can affect boost?