sonoramicommando

personally i havent had issues and it stops to my satisfaction. having said that, i havent driven gtst so i don't know how they compare. going back to you Q tho, it is "OK" to run what you got.

Hi all, I have Bilstein shocks which I have acquired second hand and I'd like to use SK recommended 355mm front ride height and 345mm rear. As I haven't got these from SK Group buy, and bought front and rear pairs from different sources, I have no idea which groove will give me the desired ride height. The fronts have four grooves, with top two and bottom two 10mm apart and second and third grooves 20mm apart. The rears have only two grooves. I understand the SK supplied Bilsteins have 5-6 grooves (I forget the exact number). Can anyone measure the distance from the center of eyelet to the correct circlip groove (alternatively from the top of the shock body to the groove - whatever way works easiest) Also, is the ride height spring dependent - i.e. if I use stock spring or something other than SK group buy supplied Whiteline spring and use the groove which would give me 355mm ride height, would I still get the same height? Thanks in advance, cheers Sam

Hi guys, I need some help from the guys who rebulit / overhauled gearbox before. at the moment im at disassembly stage - i have the rear housing off easy enough but having an issue with pulling the front one. im using r31 shop manual - nissan and gregory's and not sure if the manuals are 100% applicable to my gearbox. what do i have to remove on the front end to be able to remove the front housing? i have a small circlip & a large bearing retaining circlip off the mainshaft but nothing off countershaft (doesnt look like there is anything holding it to the front housing) and i cant seem to get it freed off. any help would be much appreciated. ta, sam

yeah i understand they would be stiffer than stock ones. i got BNF28Z & BNR26Z, are the groupbuy ones have the holes in the same place and one extra in the middle?

yeah i've looked at the website - there is no front sway bar link part number against r32 gtst, just universal link kit. and im not sure if its ok to go with the single eye type - need first hand opinions, really. cheers, sam

hi all, i pulled out the stock front bar and found one of the link has a torn rubber boot at the spherical joint end. im thinking about getting the whiteline link kit (if there is one available for front) rather than paying nissan price for stock part (i dont know price difference at the moment but im pretty sure nissan will charge a fortune based on the bits i bought from them in the past). just looking at the whiteline single eye link kits, looks like they should work - still a question remains, why did nissan use spherical joint, which appears to be of more complicated design, rather than plain bushing. it d be great if someone can give me correct whiteline p/n to use. cheers, sam

hi all, does group buy swaybar with 3 holes give you harder/ softer settings at its hardest/softest locations compared to 2 hole retail bar? or does it have more intermediate adjustment? cheers, sam

so it runs just fine without plumbback ? i suppose it's only very small amount of air that's going out of the system post-AFM. anyone with plumbback care to comment? cheers sam

hi all, im finally getting round to install my kit - a quick question. it looks like the vent between solenoid and actuator is open to atmosphere, according to the figures in the kit - is this the way to go, or plumb it back to pre-compressor somewhere? cheers, sam

I have a r32 so I can't comment on how it compares against the stock solenoid system, but to me, boost seems to hit a lot quicker with the boost controller hooked up and set at 10psi at plenum (vs 5psi at plenum without the controller).

those o rings look bad - are they injector/fuel rail o rings? that would cause fuel leak there rather than air leak. if you haven't looked, check out injector/manifold rubber insulators - it pays to buy new ones, cos i had the same problem, massive leaks at #2, 3 & 5 cylinder.

I posted on the stagea forum but that might not have been the best place to ask (although it had 51 page Jaycar IEBC thread going there). Basically I upgraded to 440cc low impedance peak hold injectors on my R32 RB25DE+t and need some help for fitting of peak hold adaptor - I don't fully understand "how it works" part of the Jaycar kit instruction, I'm afraid.. Jaycar instruction says the 0.1 ohm 5W resistor needs to be spliced in between +12V feed to an injector and +V side of the injector plug. Does it mean that the resisor need to be fitted before injector resistor pack? After resistor pack, it will see somewhat less than +12V (resistor pack for injector: 6 ohms & injector impedance: 3 ohms), no? Thanks in advance, Cheers, Sam

Bob, I haven't tested the IEBC yet but as far as I know 7MGTE 440 injectors are peak hold low impedance, just like gtr 440cc, hence the requirement for a resistor pack. Cheers, Sam

need some help for fitting of peak hold adaptor - i don't fully understand "how it works" part of the Jaycar kit instruction, I'm afraid.. i have R32 RB25DE+t with 440cc low impedance injectors (ex-7MGTE) which I take it to be peak hold. Jaycar instructions say the 0.1 ohm 5W resistor needs to be spliced in between +12V feed to an injector and +V side of the injector plug. Does it mean that the resisor need to be fitted before injector resistor pack? After resistor pack, it will see somewhat less than +12V (resistor pack for injector: 6 ohms & injector impedance: 3 ohms), no?

also the original (& cheaper) canton accusump - same stuff in principle. basically you hook up a remote oil filter setup and T the accusump in there. simple as.

So you are saying that the silicon piping was the key difference maker? if so, what makes you think so? Btw, you got more photos of your car - that's very nice looking car, love the paint scheme - not sure about asian-eye headlights tho ;-) cheers

ok after having done this with a garden sprayer, i really do need a compressed air source with constant pressure and flow rate. anyway, i found out that there were massive leakage (at least it seemed so) at vacuum hoses (not clamped well enough) and where injectors go into the manifold. i could hear some decent whistling noise (which got more obvious with soapy water over it). now i tightened up hose clamps and replaced the injector insulators but i can still hear air flowing over somewhere in the plenum. is this normal to be able to hear air flowing sound (less of a whistle now) - which im hoping to be air flowing thru the head with valve overlap - or do i still have leakage? i couldnt quite confirm if i got rid of leakage at underside of intake manifold, so it could be a possibility. cheers, Sam

ok looked thru a few more photos. i think i got it wrong - the photo i upload is from intercooler outlet. the pipe you have the arrow on, it's a short 90° bend, which goes down to intercooler inlet with a rather longish joiner, assuming you have a stock cooler. with a front mount (like the photo you have), you probably need some more pipes I guess.

that ain't the stuff. i reckon this is what u need - im not 100% sure if this is the one you are after because there are a few pipes and bends but this is one of them.

Hi guys, Long story short, insulator for one of my injectors is ripped and needs replacing - the thing is I have MA70 Supra 7MGTE injectors in my R32 RB25DE+t and can't be sure if I used Supra insulators or Skyline ones. It would be much appreciated if any of you guys with spare injectors can measure up the nozzle OD. Thanks in advance, Cheers, Sam

you missed the point here - Tom is paid to do a job, which I gather to deal with customer service in general (or complaints only). he is doing a poor job of managing customer complaints. it maybe a systematic failure by nengun hiring people not suitable for the job or not providing adequate training to cope with situations like this, who knows. in any case, how does that phrase go again, the customer s always right....

it doesn't matter who was in the wrong, with that kinda of attitude and response, Tom clearly does not have a place in customer services dept in any company.

ok guys i need to do this thing as well (supposedly i have some air leaks), but i have a couple of questions: - do i need to have an air source that maintains constant pressure, or can i just use a footpump to get it to a certain psi and listen for a leak? - can someone explain it to me how it actually works? i d imagine valve overlap would allow the built up pressure to escape to exhaust side? thanks sam

email sent, Bob. Cheers, sam

hi all, i got a second hand Jaycar IEBC but didn't come with instructions/manual. can anyone scan and flick me a copy? it would be much appreciated. cheers, sam