sonoramicommando

It will not work - as everyone is saying - and even if you find a way to make it work, there is no point because the stock tune will only run the engine optimally - and I use this term loosely - only if exactly the same amount of fuel you are giving right now. Why upgrade when you are achieving absolutely nothing?

had a r32 gts25, sedan, auto - it took about 10 seconds 0-100km roughly measuring with a stop watch - pretty slow. converted later to RB25DE+t with R33 turbo and everything else stock shaved it by 3 seconds.

i would have thought an oil accumulator / accusump would be a good insurance with your pressure warning light system. i don't know, maybe it is not effective on skyline (don't see why not, tho) - i'm from old school car background =) - but that would be the 1st thing i'd put on my engine if i were push the car a bit.

thanks for the reply - im not worried about the looks, if i were i would get a pair (or a set of four) of same mags! =) 5mm does seem not much, but i really dont know if it ll make much difference when it comes to consistent handling going left and right etc. cheers sam

well, i got given a couple of 17" wheels and there is 5mm offset difference - can i get away with fitting them on the same axle or should i put a spacer? cheers, sam

hey thanks man. i need to have a look at the lines, see what i have. is it definitely worth the expense and effort? i reckon i won't bother with the rear brakes anyway. cheers, sam

hello all, I've searched a few times, but most topics cover upgrading turbo skyline brakes or upgrading brakes going from 4 studs to 5 studs. I have cheap 17" mags up front and 16" at the back, all 4 studs and i don't have overwhelming desire to go 5 studs. The need for brake upgrade? well, I turbo'd the RB25DE, having said that I don't think the factory brake ain't too bad for streets. I'm not planning to do much track sessions, if any, so fade shouldn't be an issue to me. I just want to be able to stop on a dime if the needs be, street situations, like numbnuts pulling out in front of you with no warning, stuff like that. So basically what I'm thinking is just to upgrade to multi piston calipers for more clamping for a starter. if suitable bigger rotors come with them then I don't mind them either. I'm looking to go 2nd hand ex-factory calipers/rotors fit with no/little modifications. Can any one advise - obviously it's better if you have done upgrade yourself rather than hearsay. Thanks in advance, Sam

depends what r32 engine you are going for. if it is gts25, i reckon its worth it. a lot less hassle than the whole engine swap and would work out fairly cheap too. as for oil & water lines, they are all there in the block, just need to remove the plugs. DE+t is vastly underrated here for some reason, if you are not after pure top end numbers, it'll make a good street car for sure.

but wastegate actuator still opens up at the same boost level (12psi @ turbo compressor nipple), doesn't it? does that mean wastegate has not enough flow capacity? i would have thought you would get higher boost at the plenum if your I/C & pipings are less restrictive than stock setup given the same wastegate & actuator. cheers, sam

Paulr33 is right in that it's about 12psi when WG actuator starts opening up. I tested my r32 actuator yesterday and it does open up at 12psi, R34 one opens up at 6.5psi. with r32 actuator, i get about 11psi peak and drops down and stabilise at 10psi. your actuator might open at 0.9kg/cm2 and if you take the pressure loss thru I/C into account 12psi doesn't sound too unreasonable. im going to put a spare boost gauge T'd up off turbo compressor housing nipple just to make sure what boost the turbo s making. cheers, sam

it should be less than 12psi at the plenum due to pressure drop across I/C & pipings.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/In...+identification according to this link S2 R33 turbo/R34 trubo are the best (not sure if it is still the case on RB20DET) because it has the largest stock Nissan turbine housing with casting mark OP6. I pulled the rear housing off R34 turbo to put on R33 S1 but not sure if i will follow thru, the turbine housing wasn't exactly to easy to take it off.

oh ok - thanks for clarifying that for me, there seem to be some misinformation re: NEO. going back to the situation i got, would it be benefitial for my cause to swap the exhaust turbine housing or status quo? cheers, sam

hi, sorry to drag out the old thread but i scored an OP6 housing the other day and figured i might do something with it. questions: 1. are there any downsides to putting OP6 on R33 S1 turbo? this is going on R32 RB25DE+t with front mount and 440cc injectors and chipped ECU. With R34, the idea of putting a larger exhaust turbine housing on otherwise the same motor (except for NEO) was that with variable exhaust cam timing, it would allow the use of a larger turbine housing without having detrimental effect on low end. im putting it on DE+t with 10:1 compression, does that mean i can do the same without compromising on low end. personally, i'd rather have low end torque than top end if i had to give up one. 2. how does it work without putting a larger turbine wheel? what does the increased gap between the turbine housing and the wheel do? cheers, sam

i d go along with what WAN73D & Housie are saying. I also T'd off a nipple at the back half of the plenum (R32 RB25DE+t). I think I'll put individual nipples for BOV, boost gauge, wastegate actuator feeds, now I have the plenum out for fwd facing plenum mod - it was getting too messy with T off another T etc. At the same time I'm putting a spare boost gauge at the compressor housing, just to be sure of what boost the turbo is making before all the pipework - I hear 25DET turbo is good for 12 psi ish at turbo and wanna make sure it's below that at turbo.

r32woohoo is spot on - r32 has a pneumatic wastegate actuator and it alone controls the max. boost pressure & when the wastegate opens. the controller goes between the wastegate actuator nipple and the turbo compressor housing nipple. he is also spot on the assessment of some ppl's attitude on this forum - we've gotta start somewhere, we've all started out as a newbie. it helps if you understand how it all works but i really don't think we need the answers like "if you can't understand/do this, take it to the mechanic". some ppl DIY to save money, others do it to understand and learn. this is not really personal to you GeeTR, just an observation and a suggestion. cheers sam

if you crimp it properly its not any worse / or could be better than soldered joints. soldered joints are hard compared to the non-soldered copper wire strands, so if vibration is an issue, it could break there. tape s not gonna stick, not sure heat shrink would hold up (then not sure about applying heat there either). one would think if its a genuine walbro kit they would ve included petrol resistant splices in there. and staggered joints s a good idea. the black lid thing, its no biggie, use a drift to turn it counter clock wise one the ribs, but R32 one is a whole lot easier.

you need to measure the pressure where it opens up to really know whats going on, be it R32, R33 or R34 actuator. im using r32 actuator (measured to open up at 10psi) on r33 turbo and i see 8-9 psi at plenum with stock cooler. the actuator is hooked up to turbo compressor housing.

i used por-15 tank treatment thingy on my rusty tank - not skyline. 100 bux for a kit i think and that thing worked well, but if you can get a good 2nd hand tank why bother.

both my r32 & r33 actuators have nipples coming out straight from the side. not sure if S1 & S2 R33 turbo came with different actuators but what you have doesn't look like R32 one. R32 turbo has 16V5 on the housing and R33 one has 45V3, not sure if you can determine which series turbo from that.

looks like your actuator is bogus - either broke or not R32 job. Birnie: R33 manual says the actuator should start moving @ 51kpa (manual) or 36kpa (auto), which are 7 and 5 psi approx.

The dead giveaway is that R32 engines have #5 & 6 plenum & inlet manifold runners offset towards the centre of the car whereas #1 thru 4 runners are a little bit outboard. That applies to RB20DE, RB20DET & RB25DE as far as I know.

Mmm not sure that's how I would put it. I'd like to think the flow rate increases with larger cross sectional area in intercooler pipes and/or core - whichever is the smallest and lag increases with the total volume of the entire intake system, post turbo. this is probably overly simplified and the construction of the pipe/bends and core would have substantial influence over it. of course there would be frictional pressure drop along the length of I/C pipes and the cooler itself. so, I'd would say a system with a cooler with shorter length across end tanks and shortest possible piping would be best for flow for a given cooler core area and I/C pipe diameter.

gts is n/a - rb20de. gtst, rb20det comes with nissan in-house turbo, apparently based on garrett design something like that. do a search.

front mount tends to have better flow capacity (as in flow rate) than stock one so you get less pressure drop across the core. that's why you see more boost at the plenum. increase in volume may give more lag, depends on flow capacity.