sonoramicommando

can you determine series 1 or 2 turbo from housing casting number, if not, how? cheers

geez thanks man i ll keep my eyes peeled for silvia/180sx wheels - they are 4 studs, then? cheers ps yeah i was wondering around at a mall car park looking for non-turbo skylines and checking out their wheels, you are right R34 s are all 5 studs eh.

budget upgrade - i may have been misguided but logic tells me that GTR makes more power than GTSt, and I presume it would have bigger/more efficient exhaust to go with it. by the way im thinking of changing a stock GTSt catback with a stock GTR one. everyone is uprgading exhaust, stock ones i figured would be cheap as chips - i might be wrong but just doing some homework. thanks for the info. cheers

im curious. why wouldnt getting a pressure feed straight off either compressor housing or j pipe work? i don't know if that affects the fuel/ignition side of it but the wastegate would progressively open to achieve 10psi (if using R32 actuator). it is independent of ECU or anything else that way - purely pneumatic the way it works.

i agree with you that you should get post intercooler, somewhere before throttle body (assuming turbo can handle a bit more than 10psi - most probably) but that's not how R32 actuator works. it gets pressure feed off turbo compressor housing - i.e. pre-cooler. just you gotta make sure turbo is not seeing too much boost and blow off its wheels if you are going way over stock 10psi.

I have R32 GTS25 with stock 4 stud wheels and wondering are there later models skyline (R33/R34) or other RWD Nissans come with larger size (i.e. 16" or greater) in 4 studs pattern from factory? looking for some cheap upgrade. cheers

anyone swapped exhaust (cat back) between different models? like, R32 <-> R33 <-> R34 and GTR <-> GTSt to be specific, im interested in R33 GTS25t -> R32 GTSt and R32/R33 GTR -> R32 GTSt are there any modification required and are these worthwhile swap? cheers

nah. r32 actuator is 10psi. r33 one is 7 psi. i have em both and checked it out against pressure gauge. i think what you need to do is get a boost/vac feed from the compressor housing (on r33 turbo you ll have to drill n tap a hole, meaning you ll have to take the housing off - too much hassle and you ll get less boost, i.e. your boost gauge will see less than 10psi due to pressure drop thru i/c etc) or get a feed off J pipe (would be easier and can crank up a lil more boost this way)

R32 GTS's are over 15k??? GTST's are cheaper than GTS's??? 15k for nearly 20 year old 'family sedan' is a madness!!! Are you looking to buy from dealers or private sales? you really need to think hard when it comes to your first car, just buy something practical, until you can afford/qualified to drive a turbo. this is going to be mighty waste of money. to be honest, GTS is a slug in stock guise being a relatively heavy car and de-turbo'd GTST wouldn't really be worth driving IMO.

i was getting bad miss after turboing my N/A and 5 of 6 coils had skinny vertical cracks on the side. i used GE Silicon RTV106, it's red high temp silicon, rated to 500°F. it seemed to have done the trick - but then i also regapped the plugs to 0.8mm, so i don't know which one fixed the problem. i used the rtv cos its nice and flexi so i didnt have to worry about putting too much and the coil not fitting in the bracket. and it's not runny or anything like that so you can just put this thing on then slap it back on the motor.

im pretty sure you can find one at wreckers easy but i really wouldnt worry about it. i think it s just a peice of metal with some rubber thing attached to the end. i chucked it out when i replaced the cat and i can't say i noticed anything too out of ordinary.

geez guys, if you guys want flame, why don't you get a kit or something off ebay. or do what i did, stick a spark plug at the tail pipe and spray petrol there. makes nice flame, no damage done.

i did on R32 RB25DE. it's pretty easy and in my opinion it works out cheaper than getting either factory turbo or swap for DET motor (well, it did for me - check your local market rates). i don't think 25DE s worth much money, except for the head, apparently ppl use em a lot for RB30DET conversion. there is a problem of legality of doing it, check your local rules and regulations first. No idea on R34 but, apparently R33 ecu can't be chipped, but I think you can use a chipped R32 ecu to suit your set up. Also, not sure other RB25DE has provisions for oil/water line on the block. Mine did but I also talked to someone else who did it, he didnt have them on the block (I think it was off Stagea) if you can get the whole setup off someone upgrading to a bigger turbo, it makes your life a lot easier than trying to chase this and that all over the place (which I ended up doing). here are my parts list (most are covered by stolen_s15) turbo (+ water and oil line + gaskets) exhaust manifold (+ gaskets) dump pipe front pipe J-pipe and blow off valve intercooler and pipings hoses and fittings for PCV & vacuum lines high flow fuel pump pod filter or turbo airbox (N/A one doesn't line up) some fasteners (unless they come with turbo etc, if you getting a whole kit, they should. I broke two manifold studs but easy to replace em. also needed to buy turbo to manifold nuts. I don't know if it makes difference but if you buy from nissan hella expensive and they needed to get them from japan. I ended up going to a stainless fastener place and got them cheap) and it pays to check your ignition system - coils and plugs - boost exposes defects that don't show up in N/A motor. DE+t shaved about 3 seconds off 0-100kph time and 50-70 and 100-120 times (which i think is more practical in everyday sense) are a lot better, so definitely worth it. And this is with 9psi and a generic tune. With dyno/road tune for your specific seup it should be better. I'm going a little bit further now, with front mount intercooler, 440cc injectors and front facing plenum. you might want to go front mount and injectors while at it, a little more work and expense but save on tune/chipping later when you do want more out of it. Oh, you don't need to change intake manifold.

the autospeed article has the figures - altho it only measured air temp at throttle body not at i/c outlet, i think the results are there, assuming the autospeed experiment had robust process in terms of ambient and driving conditions (i don't know if it was), there shouldn't be any arguments here. even better Fixxxer could tell the difference. placebo effect is definitely a possibility, but then what can you do, do a blind testing? as for saving time & money and buy a mod that is proven to work - all for it too. but i don't think Fixxxer would have saved enough time & money to be able to buy any decent mods. plus i think some people just like tinkering with little things like that rather than just go out and buy stuff. i, for one, find it more fun.

this sounds too basic, but are your vacuum lines all hooked up? i got that when i forgot to hook up some vacuum lines. cheers

hey for the amount of money spent and if you can feel a bit of difference, im all for it. did you wrap up all the pipings or just the intercooler outlet to throttle? if compressed air coming out of turbo is hotter than under bonnet air temperature (i don't know if it is, or it is only after certain boost level, but anyway), maybe pre-intercooler piping should be left alone.

1. mOrt wanted to know what would happen when he puts his TB at front of stock plenum. 2. Later on, he also said that he wondered why there are no stories of lean cylinders at 1& 6 due to stock TB position. 3. I said that I have my RB20 one out and said there are no fins, ribs or baffles to stop uneven air distribution (3 & 4 vs 1 & 6 cylinders). 4. Later, I replied in general (note I did not quote anyone) that we are only speculating without flow figures and once again raised the issue of stock plenum air distribution. 5. You replied, quoting my post, that nissan has 100,000km warranty based on their design "Mate", here are your problems: Where are the alternative explanations or reasons? How can I take you seriously when your reply is that Nissan gives warranty??? sure it is not my thread, you are not jacking my thread, but if you are gonna quote and pick apart my posts, you might as well stick to my main point. never in any of your posts, you addressed my original point of air distribution of stock vs modified stock with TB at front. don't dwell on side issue - and was I wrong to say we are speculating without any figures? I don't think so. I'm assuming this response was for me... Now, you tell me where I said that YOU are saying that home made plenums kill engines. YOU read carefully. I said "people" in general, never quoted you. I'm done in this thread.

if you can satisfy yourself with your fluid mechanics knowledge on this matter, that's good for you. but if it is your intention to convince me, you are still not coming up with any proof that stock manifold is far superior to cut & shut front facing plenum - you will note from my posts that im only interested in stock manifold vs cut & shut job. and i don't appreciate being misquoted. ps. i will go along with your explanation of WOT situtation btw.

I'd go along with that in theory - amount heat transferred via pipework is negligible compared to that via intercooler. But didn't the autospeed article state that there was 7-10°C drop? I can't ignore the empirical results.

someone else brought up this point before - without the figures. does it mean intercooler heatsoak is not an issue either?

should make some difference, I think. if intercooler water spray is a good idea, then probably so is this. would look pretty rangi but for the price you pay, you can't go wrong eh. actually hot intercooler piping is a main reason im going front facing plenum. only a meter or so of the pipes will be in the engine bay.

this only means nissan was fairly confident in their design in its bone stock form (you know warranty is void as soon as you modify something - and i doubt there are hardly any of us who didn't modify our cars at all, obviously some push it far beyond its stock from than others). In your ideal world, no one would have a faulty car because nearly all passenger cars come with some kind of factory warranty. And I'm not quite sure how you came to a conclusion that at WOT TB position is largely irrelevant. ok, obviously you can't quite visualise #3 & 4 runners would be forcefed with more air under boost given the stock location of throttle body. never singled out you or anyone said this or that. maybe not from this thread but there are peope who think that homemade front facing plenums are responsible for detonation due to leaning out on some cylinders and excessive bore wear on other cylinders due to rich mixture. others, like you, think uneven air distribution merely causes loss of performance, without affecting reliability of engine. to me, you are basing your judgement on reputation of Nissan and GReddy than anything else - that's fine but that still doesn't prove or disprove anything at the end of the day.

if there are no flow figures are available, all we are doing is speculating. one assumes that because nissan is a large automobile manufacturer, the stock plenum is going to be good. same goes for GReddy plenum. if one says a cut-and-shut front facing plenum has terrible air flow distribution judging solely from its shape, it is equally valid to say that the stock plenum flow distribution is far from ideal either. to me, this flow business is one of the least intuitive things in the world and so-called common sense doesn't necessarily work out, but for the life of me, i can't go along with the people saying that stock plenum is fine when all you can see through throttle body is #3 & 4 cylinder runners while the same people maintain homemade front facing plenum will kill engines. the thread with some flow figures on front facing plenum was interesting because #3 & #6 flowed most, with 1&2 the least, which doesn't seem to follow any logic as far as i can tell. im curious to know how different are honda & silvia front facing plenum design internally, because they have single throttle body unlike GTR/GTIR ones. some honda ones look like a log type design, with a huge tube hooked up to a throttle body with four short branches coming out the side to each cylinder.

i dont know about RB25DET ones but I ripped out my RB20 one, it has jack inside, no fins or ribs (well, there are real shallow ribs but they are more structural than flow-related). There is nothing in there to stop two middle cylinders getting more air than other cylinders, 2 & 5 cylinders getting less air and 1 & 6 even less air.

thanks heaps!!!