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sickr33

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Everything posted by sickr33

  1. so your saying the head was ported-polished and machined for oversized valves but was not machined for big cams???? that seems very weird to me? did you build it? if not, might be a good idea to take the cam covers off and have a good look just in-case it has been done. also i was under the impression the you have to take the head off to put in new springs and retainers so why not machined the head while it off so you can put some high lift cams in. is saying all that i have tomie Poncams 260deg 9.15 lift and i love them give a nice lump/growl to the exhaust i cant comment how how they affect the performance because i did a lot of work to motor at same time. what i can say is that the Poncams 260deg will give you better mid-range (help bring turbos on earlier) and top end where the HKS 272deg and all top end good luck
  2. South side Engine center (builder's of john zappers car "ZAPS RAT" did the prep work for my bottom end and rebuilt-ported-cams to my head very good work decent price 93171233 Neil (top bloke) Myaree behind Bunnings Warehouse
  3. It looks a series 1? give us some details ie Turbo?, manual?, km's?, any mods? You stated blown motor, any details, head gasket, rings etc? can you post some pic of the interior and engine bay please. what price range you looking for??
  4. something to keep in mind is fuel filter i change mine every second or third oil change approx every 15k you would be surprised how blocked they get and can cause you to lean out under full load
  5. so do you agree that eagles are good rods but maybe not needed?????
  6. eagles are garbage. ?????? please explane why you say because i run eagle rods and so far i swear by them. i also know of a 2jza that have 850hp@tires using eagle rods.
  7. put new spark plugs in 0.8mm gap if it still pops you need new coilpacks
  8. quote (it kind of sounded like it was hitting a fuel cut or some limp mode) fuel cut is a big bang (some times) and a sudden loss of power i doubt it was this i think you would have been hearing abit of missing (pop pop pop) if this is the case get your self some new spark plugs gap them to 0.8mm (or buy them pre-gaped) wind you boost back up! if it goes pop pop pop again, you have two options. keep you boost low enough so it doesn't miss OR get your self some new coil packs i use splitfire but there are a few brands most have been covered so do a search.
  9. x-force split dumps are the way to go fit like a glove and well made just my 2c
  10. if you do use soapy water make sure you apply when manifold is cold to touch! if you do it when it is too hot you run the risk if it cracking!!! manifold to turbo gasket? NO! it is the manifold to head gasket. you hear that tick tick tick on the down rev? that is the exhaust gases leaking every time the exhaust valve opens! if it was the manifold to turbo gasket you would hear a constant drone/leak not a ticking sound! have you done any damage? NO! do you have to change it? NO! having said that if it was me i would change it because it would piss me off and you may be loosing a bit of response/performance
  11. couldn't agree more volume of air and fuel make power a big turbo @ 10psi will make more power the a small turbo @ 20psi psi don't mean shit its the volume/mass/amount (what ever you want to call it) of oxygen that counts hence you make more power on a cold damp night than you would on a hot dry day because the air is denser (more partials of oxygen in the same volume of air)
  12. pressure is constant but the flow/ volume of air doubles
  13. if the BOV stays shut under-boost with no boost feed then it is easy put a valve in the boost line feeding the BOV and your done
  14. you can do what you want but you will need two boost feeds to your BOV let me explane the BOV only opens when the the pressure in the piping its connected to is greater then the pressure on the other side of the spring witch is fed by a boost line witch is connected to the opposite side of the throttle body than witch the BOV sits (bov on turbo side and boost line conected to the engine side of throttle body) hence when you back off the throttle body closers an in-balance in pressure occurs in the BOV causing it to open. BUT if you take the boost line from nipple on the same side of the throttle body as the BOV (turbo side) the pressure will remain equal and the BOV will not open. (assuming it has a strong spring STOCK MAY NOT BE STRONG ENOUGH) so to do what you are wanting you will need a feed from each side of the throttle body and some way of switch between the two. for this i suggest either an electronic valve that has 2 inputs and one out put that allows you to switch between the two. OR 2 normal open/close air or liquid valves where you have one on each boost line before they connect into a T piece and connect into the BOV SO IN SHORT IS IT POSSIBLE YES! IS IT SIMPLE NO!
  15. keen on photo's!!!!!
  16. car is in the workshop and box is coming out on monday will let you know
  17. car is in the workshop and box is coming out on monday will let you know
  18. i have sence pulled the clutch fork boot out and reinstalled the clutch slave so i can see the clutch fork and pressure plate in action and everything seems fine. i can not see any twisting, warping or cracking of the clutch fork or clutch fork pivot.
  19. hi all i am having a great deal of bother with my R32 GTR clutch was driving fine but slowly became hard to select gears. it got to the point that the car would creep forward in gear when clutch is totally depressed. i adjusted the clutch peddle and all problems went away for about 100km's but have come back worse than ever. the clutch will not disengage at all now start the car in neutral and can not select any gears start the car in gear with clutch peddle depressed and car lurches forward!!!! i have replaced clutch master, clutch slave (nismo) and have removed the damper system with the use of a braided line. still same problem the clutch peddle feels good, the clutch slave has good movement. So to summarize clutch is Direct Racing twin plate clutch pressure plate fingers look good clutch pivot does not seem to be broken entire hydraulic system is new and been bled many times the only thing i can think of is the clutch fork but i can not see any sines of damage i pulled the gearbox out for the car 550km's ago when i rebuilt motor and all looked good and has been working fine for 500km's and now this please help me
  20. hi all i am having a great deal of bother with my R32 GTR clutch was driving fine but slowly became hard to select gears. it got to the point that the car would creep forward in gear when clutch is totally depressed. i adjusted the clutch peddle and all problems went away for about 100km's but have come back worse than ever. the clutch will not disengage at all now start the car in neutral and can not select any gears start the car in gear with clutch peddle depressed and car lurches forward!!!! i have replaced clutch master, clutch slave (nismo) and have removed the damper system with the use of a braided line. still same problem the clutch peddle feels good, the clutch slave has good movement. So to summarize clutch is Direct Racing twin plate clutch pressure plate fingers look good clutch pivot does not seem to be broken entire hydraulic system is new and been bled many times the only thing i can think of is the clutch fork but i can not see any sines of damage i pulled the gearbox out for the car 550km's ago when i rebuilt motor and all looked good and has been working fine for 500km's and now this please help me
  21. as a bove have pm's a few people but they either dont have them or dont reply im in perth let me know what you got!!!!
  22. BLEED VALVE!!!!! i doubt you are holding boost very stable get a Greddy Profect B II or something along those lines Decat pipe or take the center out of the one you got (MAKES A BIG DIFFERENCE) 3 inch does seem a bit small but is not the cause in this case but will take affect when you get up around the 300-350kw mark.
  23. RB20 AFM 80mm RB25 AFM 80mm RB25 neo AFM 80mm Z32 AFM 80mm Q45AFM 90mm RB26 65mm RB26 Nismo 65mm (same as Z32 but is smaller) hope this clears things up btw $315 seems a bit much www.nengun.com has them for $323 BRAND NEW DELIVERED just a thought!
  24. please reply to my pm im very keen
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