H@ME

@scotty nm35hey mate completely of topic - I’m trying Message you on sau but can’t get a hold of you re: injector wiring for c34 rb25det - can you pm me so I can’t get in contact

I have spin the bleed valve the opposite direction did not make a difference - pressure test will be done Monday -

So odd as car runs and drives perfectly just... N/A 3ACA2B00-81B0-487B-9619-3D5A9B0E71A2.MOV

This is with the hestshield off! havent put it on yet

Has not made boost since start up - I put the turbo on all fine drove off no boost - no bang! Ive had a rear wheel blow off one of my skylines I know the sound and fedl

Pulled the circlip off this morning and the flap opens and closes no issues. With the circlip back on I am able to move the full arm and flap with pliers - took intake pipe off and turbo spins freely by hand -

Thanks for the reply. Should not be a dead turbocharger. It was perfect prior to me doing the head gasket etc. i removed the wastegate circlip and operated by hand it opens and closes fine. removed the intake pipe and spun the compressor wheel by hand - spins freely no issues. ill make a boost leak tester and check for leaks shortly - a big leak would make the car run rough yes?? Runs perfect doesn’t drop idle etc just no spool.

Hey guys, stagea - s2 rb25det just done head gasket and timing kit etc car has high flow turbo, fmic, bleed valve and exhaust and nistuned Car back up and running fine but NO BOOST at all - as in it drives n/a fine boost gauge comes up to the 0 but not even 1psi of boost... ideas?

Hey guys, stagea - s2 rb25det just done head gasket and timing kit etc car has high flow turbo, fmic, bleed valve and exhaust and nistuned Car back up and running fine but NO BOOST at all - as in it drives n/a fine boost gauge comes up to the 0 but not even 1psi of boost... ideas?

In regards to fluid change - This is what I’ve done on autos before - just to confirm though if you take sump off and lose approx 2 litres and the. Pump 2 or 3 out of the lines - why would it take 12 litres to fill? FYI - for a series 2 auto transmission My local repco provided the local part numbers: Filter - NXF17520 Gasket - NPG5000

Thanks for all the info guys going to service my stagea box tonight -

Hey all had this exact issue happen just over the last two days. Series 2 stagea. A/T light flashed and the car would drop power to stereo, clock and engine briefly like less than a second ... did this about 10 times on a long drive i pulled over turned car off and went to restart - no power. Took the leads off the battery and reconnected - started and drove off. Is this an issue with connectivity of the leads/terminals? They seemed clamped on pretty well. Battery may be old? Shouldn't be alternator should it? If it were alternator wouldn't it just eventually run down the battery and it start? Will look over the following: cracked leads clean & refit terminals test voltage in battery and alternator if all else fails I'll look at the resistor mentioned above - Hame

Hi all I'm doing a little research as I'm after stock reliability for my track car so going back to standard Nissan turbo on my r32 rb25det s2 from my aftermarket set up. read this post and others - what id love to know is what is the 'best' standard Nissan turbo to use. i recently bought an Op6 then realised it has the single blade nylon compressor wheel (45v1) and rear steel wheel (shown as have having 6 point hex nut). From other posts I see this turbo is good up to 12psi. Now this week mate wants to sell me his op6 turbo for a decent price - this turbo appears to have twin blade (metal) compressor wheel and 45v3 on it. What boost would this turbo be rated too - overall which turbo is better??

Thanks guys if I can get the s14/15 I will need to replace anyhow - will my r32 tie rod/steers arms screw into the rack?

Bring up old topics - I have an r32 grot set up for drift with the following mods. R32 rack Offset rack spacers Aftermarket pillow ball tie Rod ends Cut and shut knuckles R33 lca's Adjustable castor and upper camber arms Run -3 camber 8mm toe out Maximum positive castor I have achieved good lock but am hunting more - is it possible to add additional slip on spacers to the rack, can anyone confirm if r33 or s14 racks allow more travel/extension, therefore more lock? Cheers - Hame

I I know this may be an old post but I am just adding information. I also run the following: R32 rack Offset rack spacers Aftermarket drop spindle tie rod ends Cut and shut knuckles R33 lca's Adjustable upper chamber arm Adjustable castor arms I run negative 3 deg camber 8mm toe out 8 degrees castor The set up has done me very well over the past 3 years of constant abuse however I want more now...next steps? From memory the rack has completed as much travel as it can. Are there better racks to use e.g s14 or r33? There is conflicting information out there. Some say both s14 and r33 racks have further travel - some say it's just less turns lock to lock. As my rack is on the the way out I'm keen to learn.

I've just completed the ,annual conversion and have wired up the reverse lights and the neutral sensor correctly. Now I am just wondering the speedo and oil pressure gauge are not currently working and the power steering is slightly heavy and hicas light is on. Assuming I have not wired these up as the plus is different on the manual gearbox loom. Anyone confirm where the wires are or n which plug on thE car side (car originally an auto). Thanks

All done.. Manual conversion completed. Used a 3mm drill but and cold chisel to remove the auto spiggot. Used a 32mm hole saw for the clutch master in flywheel. Was perfect. All done now. Wasn't that hard!

Both r33 auto and manual are identical so can use both

I'll clarify it I have all three. Putting in the box tomorrow after I remove the auto spiggot - re: other topic

Hey man, have a look at photo above.. That is the 10mm deep auto spiggot is it not? And my apologies all it was a 13mm socket.

So I tried the grease method this evening with NO luck I used a 3/8 extension and a 9/16 socket which was perfect inner diameter. It did not budge a bit...think this is because I had a good go a bashing it prior. The extension just kept spitting back out of the socket. Looks like I will drill it out and cave it?

Okay I'll give it a shot and report back!

Thanks guys. So can I confirm something. I've done heaps of manuals before which are the brass spigots. With the auto's they have the steel spigot (pictured here on the outside) with my chisel marks on it. There is like NO gap between it and the crank. So grease will push this bastard out?