RipNGrip

I have the same problem as steve12... when acelerating or gear braking when cold... after 5 mins gone.

there is a dvd out by www.drifting.com and sr20store.com..

m-spec skirts, gt-r wing, trial front bar... no rear pod yet.. looking for one

i have a r32 gts4, answer! Torque....... had both motors in! pro and cons to both

Hey guys, I am having similar problems, r32 gts4 with rb25 - had two bovs - atmo and plumb currently running stock plump back with flutter when engine is warm... so i assume it has failed (getting replaced) - checked fuel pump > fine - new battery and spitfire coils I think its my aac which is from a rb25 stagea and doesn't really talk to my remapped ecu too well but i have to check the impedence and voltage signals when un i has finished for the semester maybe check aac valve and its function... and check your AFM hope this helps... let us know if u solve it too

Nissan consult plug with cd and usb/serial port connector stilll up for sale? take 50 plus postage? pm me

bleed procedure - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Bl...amp;hl=bleeding

I had a over boosting problem here are some possible issues that could be causing the over boost 1. excessive back pressure causing partial closure of wastegate 2. failing actuator attached to interval/external wastegate 3. failing manual boost bleed valve I had a leaking bov (prior owner had two atmo and plump back) with a creeeeeeping manual boost controller ($22 boost controller on ebay). It was fun...... awesome drive at 17 psi until the AFM maxss out

it looks sickkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkk

Well cefiro, I have/had both of those problems. I currently have the fluttering boost... if i am at like 4 to 7 psi accelerator at 15% and the booster gauge bounces and there is noticable flutter when i boost and release. I current think that my actuator has died and i have been overboosting on occasions and it has lead to the stock BOV dying.. this leads to flutter but like u i have no idea how to test my theory

check the AFM. can u try and isolate which cynlinder if u rev in the garage or does it only hesitate in gear and underload? things that i did, change or swap afm with your brother (isolate problem), change ignitor with S1, check coils, check air flow meter and solder connnections.

found out.. engine mounts! my car is maybe 15cm off the ground so found the problem.. getting fixed right now soon i will be able to drive her again!

found out.. engine mounts! my car is maybe 15cm off the ground so found the problem.. getting fixed right now soon i will be able to drive her again!

I have a gts-4 r32 running rear wheel drive.. and after a little wear on the rear tires 4wd system kicked in and snapped the front right innner CV so i replaced it and the power steering line that it fractured and two/three weeks later while the 4wd system was deactivated; went over a big bump in my drive way and poped out the front right inner CV again... do u have any ideas on what could be causing it? p.s my car is lowered with JIC coilovers but it isn't that low

I talked to a driveline workshop... they said it could be too low and that when wheel/hud is fully extended it may excessed the cvs arch range and pop out of the inner core when compresse dagain

how did u know it was the engine brackets...? my motor seems pretty solid.. even when i rev

I am currently in the similar position... I have a gts-4 r32 running rear wheel drive.. and after a little wear on the rear tires 4wd system kicked in and snapped the front right innner CV so i replaced it and the power steering line that it fractured and two/three weeks later while the 4wd system was deactivated; went over a big bump in my drive way and poped out the front right inner CV again... do u have any ideas on what could be causing it? p.s my car is lowered with JIC coilovers but it isn't that low

expensive crash for both parties involved... fiat money

but blind elk does konw what he is talking about... p.s i just snapped my front driveshaft

i have heard both.... that it is a same bolt on but i can tell u, some of them dont! i had it done at opition one auto and they showed me the difference between the two sumps! hey i had to have the block machined

FYI, it doens't just bolt on there is a miss alignment of the front drive shaft

can u loss braking if switching between 2wd and 4wd whilst the car is stopped but still idling?

Hey guys, i have a r32 gts4 with a stagea rb25 conversion. I had a work shop do the conversion and they had a few issues, one of which was the trying to attach the rb 20 front diff/sump to the block (rb25) eventually they ended up machine the bottom of the block to fix the front diff axial across the bottom of the sump. I am pretty sure, thats what they did. and now if i am full lock or accelerate quickly i get 50/50 touque split which i assume is from the rb20 rear diff and the rb25 front diff! umm thats a bad thing........oh shit~

there are only two opitions in my mind for a rb20 1. 2530 GTRS 2. TD06LS both excellent response with great power if u want to do 25/30 save your money and do it properly stick with the stock turbo till u build it

It think the most important thing when modifiying is known what you want to acheive in your first step. Stock skyline: ?response, ?power, ?handling, ?drift, ?drag, ?streeter tune the car for to your desire. There will many phases to your tuning and many costs.....how much do u want to spend after buying the car, when will u spend it, and how much money and power is enough? a r33 with coils, and exhaust and soon to be Timer, intercooler and pod will be ok (all your current mods don't really improve power that much - i/c, pod, exhaust... a SAFC, new ecu (haltech or PFC) it than important to support your motor for more power. Fuel pump so u don't lean out, new ecu (good tune), new turbo (internal gate/external gate), boost controller. i would personally, add a little boost with a turbo tech boost T ($50), SAFC (piggyback) ($200-300) and maybe a fuel pump ($199) and/or fuel pressure reg ($150) for the support. that would be fun and safe in terms or air fuel ratio install yourself...... and push maybe 12 psi and kick it sideways... BTW, please beware of the new antihooing laws in your state as they can impound your car and eventually sell it if u repeat your offence