RipNGrip

how do i confirm head gasket? and if it is a head gasket should i buy a NEWER RB20DET from a gts-t (mine has had a 220,XXX kms life) and swap the sump with my gts4-t would this work? (i am guessing the only difference to be the front diff and 4wd sump?? anything else) or should i RECON head, and new head gasket etc which would be a stronger and more money wise

Hey guys, I have been trying to troubleshot my engine problem for a long time now and its finally getting down to a diagnosis and i would love if all u guys/girls could enter your input and effective form of action. PLEASE i am getting annoyed and having WITHDRAWS from lack of turbocharged power. My daily driver. (1.5 n/a just isn't the same) Details: 93 r32 gts4-t (RB20DET) 2 x bov (stock and aftermarket) - aftermarket disabled walbro 500+ fuel pump turbosmart boost Tee front mount Intercooler stock internals stock turbo auto to man conversion - GT-r gearbox, exedy clutch etc............... splitfire coilpacks The problem: Starts with heistating lead to complication after complications and replacing lots of stuff. Currently, car cold starts fine revs fine............... then as it gets warmer (not hot but warmer) starts to stutter ( like a half miss) then it starts to miss (sounding like a rexy) missing through the stumbles through the rev range. it gets worse as it warms! I am over fueling, i think Performed actions in an attempt to solve: 1. swapped coils > SP coilpacks 2. swapped afm with one from a wrecker 3. arm resoldered old one 4. changed fuel filter, installed new fuel pump (walbro) 5. swapped ignitor pack with working rb20det 6. new coilpack loom 7. cleaned aac valve 8. checked and solved vacuum leaks 9. all 6 injectors are clicking - used screw driver to listen for mechanical operation 10. cleaned O2 sensor with carby cleaner 11. changed and regapped spark plugs 12. ECU diag returns two codes> 54 auto trans disconnected (FINE) code 12 AFM voltage over 0.5 volts at idle or greater than 2 volts with idle engine or stalled engine HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Could it be a fried ecu when installing an amp? Small leak in the head gasket which gets larger as the car warms and causing the misfiring and broad minded persontering fuel regulator?

still getting 54 and 12 code and got a afm still doesn't work! starts fine and revs fine and gets worse as it warms. ignitor? maybe

HEy guys, I have a gts4-t and have recently got full time employment and a daily driver. So i have been modding my car......... BIG surprize! on the weekend i installed whiteface dials to the cluster and LEDS however i think i have BONED my entire dash! speedo doesn't work tacho starts at 2000 rpm and moves to 3 grand. TEmp and oil move up to the max.. etc.......... nothing works Now i did remove the needles carefully with a fork and place them back in position however should i: 1. found another gts4 cluster straight replacement - forget about white face 2. buy a gt-r cluster and pay for a rewire of the dash 3. Send it to a instrument repair IF ANYONE has any ideas, thoughts, abuse, and something i could try FIRE away.......

Well..... HOpefull i have found the soultion and i will post it for future misfire/stalling/heistating skyline drivers later... Ran diag mode. Code 54 = Auto gearbox d/c > auto to man conversion - HD exedy Code 12 = AFM ......... HOPEFULLY found the source of my problems p.s addition problem which i think worked towards to stalling was a split intercooler piling! Anyways trying to find an jap auto wrecker with a AFM and i will confirm diagnosis!

HAHAHA....... Denote the NON-sexual manner! hahah just incase! Just a question for widebody how many times did u get pulled over by the cops? haha its an awesome ride and did u get pulled over a few times or take it for a run? p.s GTauto did my gearbox conversion too - greeat workshop if u have a gt-r

1. Spacers kick out the mags a touch...... fill the guards 2. metal board.//////////// no a fan 3. AWESome Paint job 4. Coilovers or lower heavy duty springs - drop her! Good to see the QLDers out and about

1. Sliding performance sell SPLITfire coilpacks 2. Another tread mentions another website which sells them for around the same or cheaper $565

WEll..... its LOOKS AWESOME but its all BONED......... all the cluster is stuffed!

Nah............. I am pretty sure they are different! I have a gts4 and it has the main speedo and tacho are from a gts-t and the oil pressure/ engine temp and 4wd and fuel level are from a gt-r

"copied from the tread" Yeah its not to difficult. All you need is a 12 volt power supply, a fan and a multimetter. Hook the power supply positive to pin 5 and the negative to pin 3. Now hook the multimeter positive lead to pin 2 and the ground lead to pin 4. You should once power is put the the afm see a voltage of around 0.5volts with no air flow. Now turn on the fan and see if the voltage increases to around 2.5 volts. This could be more or less depending on how much air the fan will blow. A variable speed fan is best as it allows you to test the afm at different levels of air flow (more air more voltage). The pin out of the afm is the same as the RB20 unit so if you get confused have a look at http://rb20det.com/air_flow_meter_pinout.html Hope this helps champ

Well, i got really drunk on friday so saturday was recovery. Only looked at the car for a bit on sunday. I also downloaded the r32 engine manual (it is quite helpful - answer those a few questions on how to do diagnostics). I got a multimeter and some fuel just so i could have a crack at it for a bit. It seems that the problem gets worse as the car warms up..... it even starts to miss at idle if the car is warm. So far: 1. placed screw driver on all 6 injectors (click, click, click) come from all of them - so they are pulsing 2. cleaned the AAC valve - it was really really dirty. 3. gapped down to .8mm (iridum plugs - i am having doubts about these plugs too) 4. resoldered the AFM and performed a DIY test which involved 12v battery, fan and multimeter - .5 volts fan didn't make a difference in the voltage so i am wondering if it wasn't powerful enough a fan or my AFM is BONED. I am leaning toward a AFM currently considering it warms up and starts missing on load/on idle. if i unplug the AFM plug the car just runs rich (light black smoke coming out the back) and sorta limps. possbles: 1. replace afm with a mates 2. clean air regulator 3. BUY more copper plugs with higher heat ranges - grrrrrrrrrr irdiums aren't CHEAP 4. send it back to the mechanic 5. POUR PETROLLLLL on the RB20DET and smoke a cig next to it 6. crank the BOOST and try and destory the car 7. REPLACE WITH RB25 or RB26 after tax time.......... dont'[ have that much money for half cut and conversion

Update: I have checked that all 6 injectors are operating. 6 = all good. Cleaned the AAC no miss on idle but it gets worse as it warms up and on any sort of load........... thinking possible AFM or aftermarket BOV.. How do u remove/disable an aftermarket BOV that is attached to my I/C piling

Yeh i have two BOV and i have been reading about how it can mes up idle... How do i remove and disable my atmo BOV..... i have two and the atmo sits on the intercooler piling in the corner behind the front left area of my front spoiler.. maybe remove the vaccum piling to it????

Hey mate......... I am had some problems currently i am having THAT EXACT problem....... cold idle is fine! Its almost that choke is fine then...... starts to misfire and splutter when she warms.... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=164545 thats my post........ there are some things u could try there..... but out of interest i did CHANGE my ignitor loom

BUMP Ok update, i have done some more research on this website however i haven't had time to do much more on the car. I regapped down to .8 mm the mechanic just put them in (running boost). Starts start up..... idles fine while still in "choke" i don't know what skylines do but it revs higher and richer.... than gets warm and starts to half miss than full miss...... going to check fuel pressure and check plusitility going to check air regulator any thoughts anyone?

Hey guys, This topic is increbily helpful but is the bain of my skylines existence at the moment. In short my car was misfiring and heistating and there were hairline cracks which were on several coilpacks on remove i smashed the ignitor loom. I got a replacement loom which was a rb26 loom (wrecker at STZ automotive was an idiot) and a Splitfire coilpacks..... rb26 loom + SP coilpack = misfire at idle. So i changed plugs NGK irdiums - regapped (.6 to 1.1) , fuel filter, quick check for intercooler splits, quick check on vaccum lines, cleaned AAC valve, cleaned and resolder AFM, swapped ignitor with a mate, new walbro fuel pump, SP coilpacks and got AN RB20 loom and now.................................. slight misfire on idle leading to random stalls with the "battery light comes on" ?failing O2 sensor ?failing alternator - battery is quite new

Hey champ, I have a similar problem: there is my tread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=164545. However i go through a few things u should look at before getting a new ECU and AFM. 1. clean the AAC valve - there is a tread on that too, takes like 1.5 hours max 2. resolder and clean AFM which u have already done 3. Check for leaks 4. Check plugs + coilpacks (hairline cracks) 5. check voltage of battery and alternator (if u have a volt-meter) 6. finally u could get a engine diagram from this website or another and check which components lead to loss of power intterminently and randomly.

NIZ-26T - i have a K+N pod and it just been cleaned! Cheers Just got the carby cleaner and gasket goop so i will see how it goes. CLEANED and no difference still misses on idle (not like a full miss more like a half miss or a short cut)

Thanks guys, I will try and clean the AAC valve today and tomorrow and let u konw how it goes. - i think there is a DIY on this site some where just need the carby cleaner and the gasket seal. I haven't tried a diff AFM only have one mate who has a skyline! i am a newbie to the booster club! Thanks guys

Update: Haha i will reply to myself! AFM soldered and cleaned cleaned TPS plug checked for leaks occasional missing on idle! Revs fairly freely and doesn't stall on release (drops to low revs) Intermittently stall? (not completely sure - battery light comes on engine sounds like it cuts and battery light goes off) but i charged the battery (battery less than 12 months old) today and tightened some of the connections

ANyone?

Hey guys/girls I require any input that you guys/girls can offer me. Vehicle details: r32 gts4-t manual turbosmart boost controller (Boost Tee) 3inch exhaust FMIC stock turbo 12 psi dump pile 2 x BOV - i. after market - ii. stock (Weird previous onwer) I have recently converted my r32 gts40t from auto to man (this was performed at GT auto garage) with a new exedy clutch and gt-r gearbox and after a good work out..... my baby started heistating 4000 rpm so as i have read on the forums here at the SAU website it could be hair crack in the coilpacks. SO I gluing them with arodite and performed a compression test and in the process smashed the ignitor loom plugs (where it plugs into the coilpack) so i got a second hand loom from STZ automative. Got back home put the new loom in and what do u know misfire on idle and load. After as for a mates help (he has a r31 with a rb20det) we swapped the ignitors than tried the loom. Ignitor didn't help. Loom resulted in no misfire at idle so we jumped in and went for a spin..... on load stall. So i thought maybe sparks / coilpacks........... Got new SP coilpacks, NGK iridium spark plugs, regap. So after inspecting the loom that i got from STZ i found that the guy had given me a rb26 loom. So i returned it. Got a second rb20det loom and changed fuel filter. Decided to send the car to GT auto garage car didn't mis for them heistated still. I asked for a new walbro pump to be installed, plugs to be regapped, SP coils to be installed.... 50 metres down the road STALL at 40 kms..... steering heavy "battery light comes up" could it be an alternator (&%*$ dying? Currently heistating over 5000 rpm and stalling randomly and running RIch. Well any help would be AWESOME I have tried: 1. New plugs 2. swapped loom, ignitor for another rb20det 3. cleaned and resolder AFM pins 4. New SP coilpacks 5. New fuel filter 6. New fuel pump 7. checked for splits in Intercooler piling Possbility i have thought of or read from the forum: 1. plastic from the plug has fallen into a cynlinder during compression test 2. alternator is F*&ked - i will find a friend with a multi meter 3. CAS 4. ACC 5. ECU in limp mode Help........... would be awesome or even ways to test what it could be I might even just RIPP THE 20 out and put in a 25 or 26 when i can afford it

PM next time if u do a group order.. i am kean for r32 gear boot cover

YEh, its looks awesome in the end however when i turn to acc on the car... some of the needles move up to the wrong position...?!?