Nameless EJ6

There isn't a way to know by means of numbers or codes (afaik).. I usually look at the oil cap. The R33 26 has a straight clicker cap, the R32 is notched... unless it's been tampered or replaced with something different. R34.. no idea.

You sure your info is backwards? RB26 = T25's, RB25 = T28

I have only rebuilt stock motors.. I've never used aftermarket parts to strengthen a motor above it's stock potential. For some people, I know there are certain steps to be taken building a high hp engine vs. stock rebuild. If I can have a shop do all of the heavy work while I size bearings... is that going to be ok? Looking for answers from experienced people (not that you aren't.. I dunno). I don't want to overlook something.

I'm not sure how to ask this question. Concerning the RB26 bottom end rebuild.. Do you guys see any problem with having a machine shop do the majority of work, but NOT sizing bearings (I'd like to do this myself) ?? I am weary of having someone in the US completely rebuilding my bottom end. I'd rather send the block out for machining and pistons/rings/rods fit, same with the crank (check/microfinish/ballance).. and double check their work then size bearings and reassemble. What do you guys think of this? Bright idea to minimize someone elses possible error dealing with a rebuild on a motor they probably have not seen before, or should I be trustworthy and have a shop do an entire bottom rebuild for me? If they do, I will have to source bearings for them depending on their abilities (hassle hassle). What'cha guys think?

Hello australians, I come here in need of solid information about my RB26 rebuild. My concerns are aimed towards the bottom end. Basically, I've dissasembled the entire motor to discover that there is vertical scorings on the cylinder walls. So, I'd like to upgrade to forged pistons. What I am curious about is whether it is ok to only upgrade in this aspect without tending to the entire bottom end rebuild. My bearings and crank look fine to me. There are builders who say it is critical to have everything practically perfectly ballanced and spec'd, but this is not a full out race project. Goal is 500 whp weekend driven. Any help is appreciated! thanks.

I've done lots of searching but haven't found any promising for ordering bearings from an online source. Nengun has some good prices, but I'm questioning that.. because some of their prices seem too good to be true. I am in the USA and rebuilding my RB26. I need to order all new internal bearings, but I don't want to spend a ton of money. The motor is being built for around 600hp.. but I'd like to use the right products to support 1000+. I haven't made the decision on bearing type yet. NISMO, stock OEM, ACL, King, etc.. so any discussion pertaining to choice would be great. Thanks.

Thanks guys. I went ahead and used some gasket remover to dissolve the carbon deposits on the tops of the pistons. Worked pretty good.. but I did assist with scrubbing them a bit with a 3m pad. They look nice now. Can anyone locate me pictures of the oil feed holes? I am definitely going to use the tomei restrictor

Awesome, thanks for the info. I'm planning on keeping the motor relatively stock. My goal is between 400-500hp... and this isn't a daily driver so it'll only get weekend attention. I guess I'll go check out some reputable shops that are experienced with resurfacing heads. I'm going to check it with a straight edge though.. because if it doesn't need to be milled, then eff it. I'm not sure about having the head dipped for cleaning. I don't want to remove the valves, but I'll determine that after I make some measurements. I may replace valves and guides. I'll try the gasket remover on the piston tops for sure. Any other postings would be appreciated. Thanks 4 the help.

wtf. 27 views and no replies? You guys must like pictures.

Hi all. I live in the US.. I have a 97 GTR motor that I'm prepping to put into an S13. Right now, I've got the head removed and I'm looking for some answers regarding the head gasket. I will likely go with an aftermarket HG. Anyways.. here's some questions. (I searched quite a bit) These are aimed towards people who have done many headgaskets. Tuners, engine builders, technicians, etc. - Is it ALWAYS a good idea to resurface the head before putting a new gasket on? Or are there certain exceptions? - If NOT resurfacing, what should I use to clean/prep the gasket surfaces without damaging anything? - If material from the OLD gasket falls into the ring gaps (hard to avoid this from happening), will blowing it out with an air compressor be sufficient? I don't want any damage to the cylinder walls, or crud stuck in the ringlands. I'm not dissasembling the bottom end. - I've been reading about oil feeds between the block and head. Some people plug one of them up? Not sure about that. But since this motor will be intended to be boosting at higher levels, should I do any plugging of orifices between the block and head for prevention? - Last question. There is some combustion leftovers on the tops of a couple of the pistons. Is it ok to clean this off? And how? THANKS! (btw, here's a picture of the motor)

Short shifters are a great concept., however, I do not trust the coordination of my clutch and shift work enough to justify one. I've seen many people **** their syncro's with them. Like sydneykid said, it is driver error.. but the longer pivot only contributes to driver error. They will mess things up sooner or later - no one can shift perfectly, nor have perfect clutch timing. Alot of Honda guys have notchy transmissions caused by short shifters. Most often it's the ITR's with their stock short throws. At first, the short shifter seems amazing, and over time the transmission becomes alot more edgy and temperamental. I've expirimented and formed my own opinions on them with my experiences using them in my own cars and friends cars - the outcome is always the same. Me = against short shifters.

Emailed ATI. Thanks Hopefully they get back to me..

Do any of ya'll aussie folks know where I could find an aftermarket crank pulley for the RB26DETT? Mine was busted in an accident. Yes, that big ass solid circular hunk of metal busted.. crazy eh? Thanks. Jared-

heh, I stand corrected. Always thought the R32's were about 300 pounds heavier. My s13 weighs 2590 pounds.

You guys need to discuss this from another view point. The RB20 in an S13? S14? The weight of the R32 and S chassis is significantly different, of course the cars feel different. The engines are designed for the chassis. The RB20 seems like an awesome engine. I've never had experience with one because I prefer displacement. I'd rather mod the RB20 over the SR however. Dun really prefer 4 cylinders..