Mildman

Yeah I'm still interested. I managed to get one from the Silvia forums, but a spare wouldn't hurt. Maybe send me a pm if you still have one and we can talk further. I'd have a few questions like km's, if it is still in a car, etc.. Regards,

Thanks for the tip, I've dropped a request on boostcruising as well, I'll put a request on nissansilvia.com as well. I like the sound of a motor for 2 slabs of beer (as long as it works)

Wanted: A full CA18DE motor with box, incl accesories, loom, ECU, alternator etc... Power steer or A/C are not really required. It's all for a little (hmm understatement) project I'm doing at the mo' Regards,

I was racing at Sandown today and a fairly hot R33 GTR went head first into the Armco railing at a fair rate of knots. The engine survived but FMIC was totalled. And...under the new CAMS regs he has to pay for the Armco railing that he bent!

By the way wrxhoon, which car do you use as a daily driver, the rex or the gtr?

I'd say $600 is quite a reasonable price to for that type of work, if you look at racing sumps they start at more likely twice that price. I've seen some advertised..somewhere..for well over $5000! My gut feelings tell me though that if you are dragging it is not as important as if you were circuit racing. In my experience - seeing 3 RB's go boom at the track, that were all at high speed cornering tracks - eg Phillip Island. So the lateral G seems to have a much higher propensity to cause no.6 big end bearing drama, rather than just going in straight lines really quick.

Well I was just thinking if it was too retarded, the bang is coming way to late, ergo none of the explosive force of combustion is used up in moving pistons, plus the volume in the cylinder is a fair bit higher....creating lean like conditions, resulting in a hotter exhaust gas. That was my dodgy theory anyways. Advancing it caused combustion to happen earlier, using more energy resulting in less heat. How does all that sound...plus I wanted to advance the timing anyway as it was feeling a little lethargic

No probs, there are special baffled sumps that you can buy - the even have one way doors in them - so the oil can flow through one way but not the other. Baffled sumps are expensive - but are the best insurance if you are going to do circuit racing....but for normal street driving it is not really a requirement.

Baffles are like walls in the sump. They stop the oil splashing up the sides of the sump and keeping it from sloshing away from where the oil pickup. Anywhere in the direct path of fresh cool air is the way to go.

Under heavy load and G forces the oil in the sump does not get adequately delivered to cylinder 6. The one at the fire wall. As wrxhoon recommends the sump should be baffled to ensure that is doesn't essentially run dry as all the oil is squeezed into the back or front under heavy acceleration/braking G's. A friend of mine stuck on oil cooler in as well to increase the survival chances of no 6.

I know this forum is pretty old now but did any of you guys check the alternator? These sort of problems, fuel cutting out, HICAS light coming on under load of power steer and headlights...a lot of times happens to be the alternator just can't provide charge to everything at once (if the alternator is dying). THis really pisses off the HICAS sensor, and when the car gets real upsets decides it just can't be bothered delivering fuel either.

Let me add to the general concensus that R32 oil gauges just make up whatever value they thinks sound good and display it on the dashboard in a haphazard fashion. If I were to put an oil pressure (aftermarket) in I would like it to measure as close as possible to the oil pressure in cylinder no 6 (right at the firewall) I have seen over 10 Skyline motors throw a leg out of number six....it is their achilles heel.

Oh by the way I checked out the R32 workshop manual situation, there is an R32 workshop manual for the rest of the car, but it is only availabile for the GTR (because this was Australian delivered). It goes for a measly $600...and will have some signifcant differences to the GTSt, but also I would hope the wiring would be very similar.

I can tell you that at idle it should be reading 6-7V when cold and 8-10V when warm (thats the AAC valve control signal) Hope that helps... Now that's for an RB20DET, it may vary for other engines

And the turbo survives that kind of punishment? Ouch

Hmmm, maybe I don't have anything to worry about given the video evidence. I have access to a dyno and will put it on the dyne in the next week or two and put an AFR meter up its arse. Obviously without the CAT in action. It the air-fuel is fine, I'll be more than happy. Thanks for putting my mind at ease...a bit anyway.

Hmmm.. Might have to research further...but even under reasonably normal driving I've been getting 'the glow'. My initial instincts is that the car is running lean for some reason. My other worry with the glowing exhaust is there is plently of piping in the vicinity, particularly the rubber power steering hoses.

xbellx Very interesting...I would be very keen to hear more about how this is acheived. If you have any photo, more detail please feel free to private message (pm) me, or even post it on this forum. I appreciate your input...and I'm glad there are other Skyline drivers out there that have felt my pain.

I'll try them both, but up until now I have never even seen an english workshop manual with the exception of the engine manual....here's hoping

Maybe I should learn how to use one then.... A cross thread thanks,

I'll give them a call Monday - if I have any joy I'll let the forums know. Thanks

At least it is fairly easy to hear the pining, (I guess this depends on the amount of mods to your engine). But you are correct wrxhoon doing things to specs is safer...but with trial and error you can find a little bit more advance than the specs - which in my case has lead to a reduction in exhaust gas temperature. (I was doing the changes as my exhaust manifold was glowing red hot after driving...indicating something not right with the combustion process...either lean as hell, or retarded (lol pardon the pun))

Just quickly checked their website http://www.jpnz.co.nz They have engine manuals for R32, R33 - but nothing else. Bugger, was getting excited there for a mo'

I did exactly this last night, so can recommend to Vovan. I had a different problem and adjusted that wheel to full advance. And then on progressive road tests kept backing it off until I didnt hear any pinging. It's pretty easy and there is not much you can f**k up.

Hi all....got a little problem. Last night took the Skyline for a good boot, for about 3km or so. Popped the bonnet as soon as I stopped and the exhaust manifold was glowing a very bright red....around 800-900 C I assume. (I have an infrared temp gauge and the temperature was well if its scale (max 500C). The bit of manifold glowing is the part you can see between the engine block and the cover over the turbo. So now I'm a little concerned...I advanced the timing as much as I could and the problem has alleviated a bit....but the exhaust is still glowing everytime I pull up. Any ideas? I've run out of simple fixes.