M I K E

sucks to hear you got stooged chris

you didn't answer his questions? they might help your sale nice little sleeper

get chris to fit them for them so he can bust out the overalls that's cheap dude - mr rocco not keen?

yep. as above. the front is the same as r33gtr but the stagea rear is about 50mm wider. you can run the rear on stagea but the end links won't be verticle quick edit: you can also run s14/15 rear sway bar but it will also be too narrow

what's the caliper clearance like on the fronts? clear r33gt-r brembos?

won't fit rwd neil - we use standard auto eyelets on the rear if they did fit a stag, it would be a manual version (forked bottoms)

did you really put those plates on it, neil? haha go play with your flappy paddles some more

you do know you can remove the video from youtube, right? or do you want to keep it there?

+1

yeah the vid has changed in the link now

that's awesome. cheers

man this flood control sucks haha well if you have exposed canvas or belts then i hope you have them replaced already? lol assuming your car doesn't have hicas, the standard toe arms have some adjustment where they bolt up to the cradle with an eccentric bolt. if that's not enough for you, you can get aftermarket toe rods which have loads more adjustment in them

ah, nah, sorry guys. was just pointing out that you can get decent life out of your tyres even if you run alot of camber, most people seem to forget that they are changing all aspects of suspension geometry when they lower their cars but because they can see that they have increased negative camber they automatically attribute accelerated rear tyre wear to running more camber

in my opinion this is an example of a pretty decent alignment on a stagea (kiwirs4's) Front toe = zero Rear toe = -2mm Front camber = 1 degree negative Front caster = as much as I can get, but I know it won't be enough 6deg if poss...lucky to get 5 I will run a little more caster on the left (~0.25 degree) to stop the drift due to road camber. Rear camber = 0.5 degree negative

i'm going to assume mv automatics? seems to be who all the local stag boys use for shift kits

you're missing my point i think, and i'm a little confused as to what you're trying to ask? if you're running 3 degrees negative camber of course you're going to suffer from tyre wear to the inner edges, and if you rotate them you'll end up with worn shoulders on both sides with more tread in the middle - which is the norm. if you want your tyres to wear dead even, then run zero static camber (which i wouldn't recommend) but even still they won't wear dead even due to independent suspension and dynamic camber (camber changes under load). my original point is, if you want to get the most out of your tyres with a little negative camber, run a couple of degrees toe out i hope that's helped?

of course if you run a lot of camber you'll get uneven tyre wear. that's pretty self explanatory. my statement is that you can get plenty of life out of your cambered wheels if you have good toe settings. it is to do with camber thrust, which i won't go into detail, but this may explain it to most

i'll point it out again in this thread, tyre wear is due to bad toe settings (excessive in or out) you can have tyres last a long time with alot of camber

finally finished setting up the suspension and put it back on the ground ready for a wheel alignment

yewwww!!

nope. not since you sprayed over the black

~330mm eyebrow front and rear think in the pics i was running tein coilovers but have since swapped to RG's

i'd offer mine but it's not white or black or standard try chef_stagea, i'm sure adam could be interested in helping out

not 100% correct. you can run stacks of camber and have your tyres last for a very long time it is toe settings that destroy tyres r33/r34/s14/s15 rear arms are the same

except for the fact it's in about 6 million pieces at the moment