M I K E

yeah i did, i can't take credit though - i copied the way chook did it! it took some time but i'm happy with how clean it looks here's a closer picture can take it out easy enough, just the 2 end bolts

really? it looked alot lower than the last pics i saw of it

$150 for the wing, it's not the standard kr4 colour though on a side note, is that you i spotted last night east side of town with adams wheels? car looks good now it's been dropped

yes, japan

i'm running a cusco one in mine

as for fuel pump, i'd go a bosch 040

i've got a wing here for you chris

price?

to measure eyebrow height you don't need to do anything to the car other than hold a tape measure against the wheel and measure from the centre of it to the top centre of the wheel arch

pricey for an s1? :S

mine is neither

or use urethane, you can heat it up and remove it later if you want to remove it. it's the stuff that is used to glue windscreens in

you wouldn't be able to repair it witout noticing it, unless you painted over it after? quite a number of people don't like them and you'll find them for sale privately every now and then - check the classifieds section for people wrecking stags too. i love them personally

^^^ it's a sea cow, the picture he posted is of one

i don't know the exact dynamics of the system but you can get away with slighty different tyre sizes... i wouldn't want to puch my luck though - just get the same all round. i've seen a number of gt-r's in japan running staggered sets without problems so it can be done although one would think they put plenty of thought into it first. i wouldn't ever recommend a 255 on an 8" wide rim either

in response to this post (in particular the turbo to dump pipe gasket) and to reinforce RPX's opinion USE GENUINE NISSAN MULTILAYER METAL GASKETS wherever possible DO NOT use the cheap shit that is provided with cheap exhauast parts

spacers are not responsible for any loss of life of wheel bearings any more than lower offset is - they both do the same thing by making the wheel stick out more. i doubt the wear on the bearings (if any) would be enough for you to EVER notice i believe spacers are seen to be illegal (?) however if you do choose to get some make sure that they are hubcentric bolt on as these transfer the load through the hub and not the studs! it's hard to tell from any pics you've shown us to determine what width spacers you would want and you've not told us where exactly you would like your wheels to come out to.. so the easiest thing for you to do is grab a ruler or a tape measure, hold it against the edge of your wheel and measure how much further you want it to 'poke'. that's the width spacer you will want. keep in mind i think (from memory) 27mm is needed to meet the length of the standard wheel studs - if your wheels don't have pockets in the back for the studs standard studs to protrude into once you have a spacer bolted to the hub then you'll need 27mm spacers minimum or to shorten the studs in your hub (which i wouldn't recommend incase you want to ever remove the spacers without needing to replace the studs) on the other hand, if you are looking for new wheels pm me (or for any other wheel related advice) and i'll be more than happy to help you find something you're after

i should add that QWK32 is right in suggesting the same wheels all round - it makes life so much easier

you can have different width rims front to back with ATTESA no worries at all. can have different offsets too what you do need is an equal rolling diameter between the fronts and rears (left to right too, naturally) you are correct in saying that a given tyre with a given width and profile will have a different overall rolling diameter if it is fitted to rims of differing widths due to sidewall angle. however, ATTESA has some le-way in it's design - it allows for the difference between a brand new tyre rolling diameter and a warn one and also allows different brands of tyres to be fitted front to rear (believe it or not, not all 235/40/18's fit the same due to sidewall construction etc) but i digress i have always had a soft spot for the enkeis but i'm a sucker for good fitment (or at least better) so will say the second set as they 'fill' the guards more

pm me for my mates number, qualified panel beater that loves doing cash jobs

i'm keen for a liesurely drive, let me know the details

body kits do not need to be adr approved

apologies for not updating the thread, it's been sold pending payment for a couple of weeks. buyer just needs to arrange finances

and eyebrow height is ~320mm

A-B is ~420mm