Cefiro RB26

Hay we will be keen for Friday starting around Blackwood let us know the details

haha we were too

That was me thanks mate

That was me in the stagea i cant remember if i saw you or not

hey the sturt id check station has closed so its either regency or lonsdale. I just took my R34 to Lonsdale to get id check all they did was check the engine/chassis number they didnt look over my car at all!but its such a hard situation coz id inspecters are different!My friend took his R33 gtr to regency for id check and had it up on the hoist and it got defected for oil leaks plus other stuff!the Lonsdale id inspection does have hoists so i would be careful its almost better to put car back to standard to risk not getting a defect goodluck

he sound like a good tuner most turbo's only need a certain amount of flow. he would have done an oil return test and decided that there was to much flow. normal less than 2L per minute. 1.8 for BB To much flow will actual reduce efficiency of bearings hence boost response. possibly push oil past the seal and get smokey as well. pay him to do it he most likely will have a few to test from to work what is best

most ecu's have lock timing with 10-15 deg this is used to set timing. I would prefer if you set everything to way it was. read what timing the hand controller is saying hope fully it reads 15-20deg follow the previous post . im online all day today to help guide you through.

HI mate, i think i can help Do you have timing light? always check timing before removal so as to have same performance afterwards.! for next time. . 1. re fit cas aligning the half moon carefully ( as they can break off) if it does leave it in the cas. 2. grab timing light connect it to your loop wire near ignition module at top rear of engine above coils. point in direction of timing marker. If u cannot see markers follow on to next step 3. grab a mate or girlfriend and get them to slowly open the spring face of magnetic pick up (on loop wire) while you are still watching timing marks. you will notice that the marks now align with 5deg markers increments. use your under bonnet stickers as guide for factroy ECU timing. Aftermarket you will need to get engine warm interface with ECU read what base timing is once car is warm set to to this. you will need to rev engine and hold at 1500 or less to make sure that ecu reads same as timing marks. 3a if having trouble another way to get no1 timing is to remove valley cover and connect timing pick up to centre wire of 3 ( just more hassle on some cars) i hope this is not to late

This may of been me with the full kit which day?Has a massive spolier and dolphin grill like ur pic?

I dont have my Stagea this weekend damn it!so i will miss the cruise

no 1 Over tightening no 2 In the past the only time a new belt seems to be noisy is if the bearings (tensioner and idler are not replaced). Thus being that new belt applies slight different load on the bearings. They are 90% of the time the source of the noise, if the belt was not over tightened Hope this was clear

Hay i have this older model speed meter in our Stagea do you have a PDF or link to manual i have looked only to find newer models.

Hay i had a very similar problem with my R34 after checking all the above mentioned problems new plugs new coils. i pulled the cas spun the shaft and there it was noisey bearings. pulled it apart marked it carefully pressed on new bearings put it back in bang full power again. no problems even put my old coils back in perfect. It is actually the fastest check out of all the possible problems and $15 to fix.

What i would like is a wiring diagram. or if you have one to check the wiring for me much appreciated.

I just landed a stagea RS4 V it has the boost gauge on the dash. i traced the wiring back to 2 plugs both are plugged in 1 going to electronic sender in the engine bay 4wires. the other must be power earths dash light etc etc. most wires seem to be connected except the brown wire brown black black orange red grey yellow white Blue

I have a R34 GTT Tiptronic stock as a rock! 34k family car with 3 month old baby on board after a 30 to 40 minute standard drive car has a few misfires then with in 5 minutes gets worse then stalls. wont restart until the car has cooled for over an hour. Upon trying to restart sounds like battery issue( check with multimeter 14.4). or wrong firing order. not what i thought would be coil pack issue! Now it is dark ill go and pull valley cover off and have a look to see if i can see sparking out side of the combustion area. then ill tape up fit new plugs/look at them, i will update later on If you have any other ideas of what could get hot and stop working