Bl4cK32

got an rb20det afm?

Need a few parts for clearing a defect etc, so cheaper the better. Car in question is an r32 gtst, however some rb25 parts will interchange so let me know what u have Flywheel Clutch - can be a stocker Gearbox - rb20 tail shaft Diff Shockers with std height springs that don't leak etc Rb20 Afm Rb20 stocker exhaust or one that's 2.5" and quiet If I can think of anymore I'll update. Cheers

Why do people run heavy clutches? Id rather blow a clutch than rebuild a gearbox... Look for a new clutch, like an OS twin. Previous owner of my car had some crap heavy single installed, then it popped the clutch box as mentioned. When my motor came out, i threw in the OS twin and its no heavier than a std clutch id say

Point was avoiding fees, and possibility of a repeat trip that is always ensured when going to regency. Have heard of people in the past getting them cleared interstate as a defect removal is a defect removal regardless of the people doing it. ADR's are still the same aus wide...apparently.

mechanic in the family over the border who can legally clear defects.

Out of curiosity, if a car was defected here in SA, can you get it cleared in another state like Vic? More importantly would it be recognized as being cleared from defect once you get back to Adelaide?

Yeah, theres no way you can crank a motor over by hand fast enough to get a close reading. Leak down test can still be done apparently when the motor is out, but it will read a little more of an overall drop though. What im after is to check the head gasket, and general condition overall, so if one cylinder is way off then i should be able to see...?

Well...seeing as its out of the car, there is no real way you can do a compression test. It needs to spin at cranking revs to get a proper reading. FWIW a fresh motor is about 150psi, and using a wrench on the pulley bolt is a little far from ideal. Hence the leak down test, which i know pretty much how to do. What i wasnt exactly sure of was if it can be done with the manifolds off. I know you put each cylinder at TDC with the tester plug in (closes off the cylinder completely) then pump air in. Listen for air at either side (intake then exhaust) and dipstick. Why im also asking is because some say to pop the radiator cap off and look at the coolant to see if the head gasket is holding (bubbles)... From anyone who has done one before or knows, is it possible to get a good reading with the motor out, and how do i get around the coolant issue? edit/ I suppose i can just listen for leaks up the coolant passages the same as you would in the intake and exhaust (use a hose...one end in ear / the other in the area you are interested in) or i could hook up some long hoses to the coolant intake / outlet and throw em in a bucket of water and watch for bubbles...as for the motor not spinning, ill hook up a flywheel and put a flywheel lock on it to stop the motor spinning.

Ok, searched but couldnt find exact answer... Got an RB here sitting on a motor stand. I need to find out the condition of the motor, so im guessing since i cant compression test it, then a leak down is my only other option besides saying stuff it and rebuild it anyways. Is it possible with the motor on the stand (how do i stop it spinning)? No manifolds attached, just the bare long motor. Anyone got steps / links etc to help me on doing this? Cheers.

All gone. Thanks for the interest.

got a R32 gtst front reinforcement bar - uncut - here for sale. This is the reo bar that sits behind the front spoilers that usually get cut up to fit larger FMICs. Has been untouched, and sitting here doing nothing but take up space. Cant use on mine as i run a GTR front bar. Asking $25 for it, cheaper than from a wrecker. PM me here if interested and ill send my details... cheers.

wasnt there a link ecu harness? Like a short section of loom with plugs that goes between the actual loom of the car and the ecu? Im after something like that myself...

Actually, i will consider an r32 GTR drivers guard. Id also need the gtr indicators then...and the side skirts....and the inner guards.....maybe some new headlights

look at the date of the OP....

Drivers front guard for r32 gtst. Need / prefer it in black, but doesnt have to be. thanks.

personal preference i guess, i like mine in there fine.

anyone know the cheapest / best place to get an apexi pod filter kit for a hcr32?

the custom one on my 3lt is a dayco / gates generic one and its hummed from day dot. Its installed correctly as well (using two tensioners to get the correct spec) so it may be a luck of the draw. FWIW i wouldnt use a trust / gates painted belt either as they have no stretch on the coating and go tight as the motor warms up. Std nissan parts at all times, unless there's a reason (ie like dark mentioned with the water pump elongated hole bs)

9/10ths of learning is by experience... Teach em early @ 15 in schools every year until yr 12 which includes getting in a car at a closed circuit at some point.

can say an rb20 power fc be made to run it properly ? yes. You use the loom / sensors as a guide as to what to use (since you will be using the std 20 gear)

Wheres the love? Every thread like this gets side railed by people confusing the search for better with a bigger motor. Sense means putting the best air pump in the car (25/26 lovers). Forget them though if you want to stick with the 2lt, then do so. Costs will be as expensive as you make it. Ill probably throw a 2.4Lt together for fun at some point, because i want to see what a rev happy motor is like in the 32.

std piping + a new cat should pass easy.

does that mean police will not pull over me now after midnight because im a responsible 25+ year old driver, without p plates and i drive a high powered stock import?

Personally i dont mind driving a car back from vic, but if its just landed then id be asking myself if i want to drive it 750kms before i do a major service on it.

Still looking for an rb20det motor. TBH, all i need is a cheap bare motor. I dont care if its got a blown head gasket, as it will probably be reconditioned. All i ask is to not be screwed around. Ive had 4-5 offers of motors (even complete ones) for sale here and interstate, and have been dicked around so much its not funny. Ive got cash waiting. Not looking at paying $1k, or id go to a wrecker and buy a complete package.