Bl4cK32

buy a 2nd hand one, weld it if you have a heavy foot, and spend as little time bent backwards and facing the sky as possible just fitting the newie. Wouldnt take that long

it will bolt up to the motor yes, but dont expect it to last. *As a guess the tailshaft yoke would be different, as would length. Crossmember would be different, and the speedo drive is a cable type on the auto box. So no its not a drop in replacement *note ive not seen the setup to be sure.

Anyone have a GTR crank and rods they want to sell? Doesnt matter if its 32 or 33, but would prefer the 33 if possible. Cheers.

A member here who was in adelaide at the time (is now in WA?) steve, had an rb25 running the 256/264 setup with a 3037s. Search here there is a massive thread on the power he made (321 rwkw?) and how responsive i think it was.

32 gtr setup (rotors and calipers) bolt straight on. Ive got them on my car, and they are cheap to buy unless you buy a new set of rotors for them. That would make the conversion legal. The only difference in the r33 and 32 gtr brakes is the casting marks on the calipers themselves. They are identical in performance however.

when i had my motor rebuilt, i took all the dirty parts to the builder and had them dip everything in the acid bath. Stuff came out cleaner than new

can someone enlighten me as to whether Regency allow aftermarket swaybars?

from memory, cubes/slaps and i used two new tensioners from the rb30e on our motors. Its heaps cheaper than using 20/25/26 items

It only proves that someone got lucky. The actual passing of the inspection is up to the inspectors or their own engineers discretion. Ive seen engineered things fail, and had it happen to me. The problems people have with regency is the inconsistent interpretation of the actual ADR rules. Also the fact they let someone through with something one time, only to come back and defect it the next time. (almost as if giving you a reason to come back) I noticed in the OP that you have no side indicators and clear front ones, which can be picked up on as well. Just because its made it through twice now, doesnt mean that the police / inspector wont ask you to change them next time.

to everyone who has and recommends an adjustable one, have you actually played with the adjustments, or did you install it and adjust it to clear things and forget it?

smaller electrode means less is required to inhibit the spark

check spark and fuel. Injectors had a clean anytime?

Depends whose building it, and what they are comfortable / have some experience with. Cubes/Slaps and I, when our motors were built, went with the King trimetal bearings as thats what our builder had used and recommended.

i dont know anything about what happened, or what state the car is in, but if it was deemed a write off is it really worth the hassle and cost of repairing it? Write off being that it would cost more to fix, rather than buy a new one... im guessing at least you would need chassis checked, panels and plastics replaced, engine and complete drive line could be out of whack now too...it would be very costly *(once again depending on what the car is now like / where it was hit) My advice is dont get sentimental on it and waste money.

yes, but having one pop (when out n about from home usually) some time after installing a heavy clutch isnt fun People squeal and get all excited and slap the heaviest clutch in and there* with no reason to. *Assuming the car is stock again, and that the OP has no mechanical knowledge

I wouldnt stick a heavy duty clutch in (without knowing mods car has) as they kill pedal boxes. If the std one was holding fine, then just get a new one in.

Ironically mine has been doing what yours was. Sitting for a long while. Mates neighbor backed into the front 1/4 panel, then got defected 5mm too low....its been sitting since. I'll have the time soon to start playing with it again but first i need to fix them minor problems Cubes is the one to ask about energy drinks these days too

Ring these guys http://www.otomoto.com.au/osgiken/index.htm requires both a specific bearing and carrier when putting these clutches in from memory.

HCR32 gtst rb20det: cheap long motor (afm and inlet manifolds needed), gearbox, clutch, tail shaft, diff, standard rims shocks / springs for regency... cheers.

I come past for a look, and this cars finally being driven? congrats

lol yer. Im more after a long term shit box that'll be reliable enough fer uni at least. Ive got a few tricks up me sleeve, but may have something sorted in the meantime. Thanks fer all the help / tips so far.

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cheers guys...still looking / considering my options with this shit box atm i have. Anyone else know of anything let me know in the meantime.

My skyline still being off the road atm, my daily shit box has decided to blow the headgasket (well the new gasket didnt reseal) again, and i CBF pulling it down again to redo my stuff up. Quick n easy - Does anyone know of a cheap (like im talking ~$500) runabout that is reliable - yes there are reliable $500 cars out there. I just need something to get me to uni n back 3x a week, so not expecting a XU1 thats been stored for the last 40years in mint. If you know of anyone who may have one, or have one yourself, then let me know asap. Area doesnt matter, i cant get to most places, as long as it aint outback. *** There used to be a thread here with cheap cars going, but its died....wish it was still active... Thanks for any help.

adjusting the pedal only simply affect where the friction point is for your pedal. If you have only a little bit of adjustment left id be thinking that there would be some clutch issues.. Have u ever had the clutch out?