Bl4cK32

Well..according to almost everyone thats ever been through, the above is complete bs for when u get a defect. Saying yes it legal, doesnt mean shit, because as soon as u are out on the street, a cop will defect it and then u are back for another inspection. CF bonnets dont meet ADR's in a crash, adjustable coilovers need to be welded shut to stop adjustment, boot mounted pumps are a big no no as well. If u question someone else inside who takes the defect off u will get a different answer..better yet - go pull the adr requirements for the items u listed and if they are legal (without an engineers cert -which regency legally dont have to abide to) i will give out a big sorry. Regency is known for going by strict rules, even against adrs if they dont like it. Someone saying it should be fine is worth the paper its written on...

U work at regency? Or are u offering to pay for his 2nd trip back when/if they defect it for not meeting ADR standards? How about we leave it to him to ring regency...

also the latest pic of myself i could find....not very flattering...didnt have time to do my hair....

final price drop.

hicas light is connected to a number of things. Power steering, speed sensors, steering wheel sensor and hicas. Power steering - known issues like low fluid, or even leaking fluid from the cap which runs down the wires off of it and soaks the connections can set the light off... Speed sensors - is the speedo working? Back of the dash sensor working? If your car as a faulty sensor it will drive 400m up the road and trip the steering into saftey "hicas mode" and the steering would go heavy with the light come on (had this one myself) Steering wheel sensor - mentioned above Hicas - Is it still working? Have u actually checked it is? I recommend a Tomei Hicas lock kit for a street driven car if u dont want Hicas anymore. It contains 2 brass small shims fitted to the power steering rack which go under the steering boots (hidden), and then the best part - a small black box that is wired into the hicas computer to keep it thinking everything is working with the hicas - basically keeps the hicas light off on the dash. If u have thoroughly checked all 4 then your hicas light wont be on

Fixed for you

bumpzor for pricedrop

considering the engine number faces upward id say no. If u take it through with anything u think might be picked on then remove it first. At least then when they tell u to come back because your wheel bearings are shagged, and the fluffy dice are faded then u can at least know u got a little picked on.

i gotta go this year. I missed getting my stein last year.... MMM...i can taste mein kransky now....mmmm

pics will be up tomorrow of the hand controller.

+1

anything that is an obvious defect...Nothing that would make them considering calling u back Probably just keep the sus jacked up, swap the clear cover, and try hide the turbos under some heat shield and u should be in and out.

Going to the sturt shop is the same as going through the engine check section at regency. All the do is check the vehicle complies with the import thingo (plate) and the engine numbers match etc. If u do get defected (when i should say) u will need to take off the AM parts anyway- Garrett 400HP Turbo GT2860R x 2. - come off Sard 650CC injectors, - come off high volume Nismo Fuel Pump, -ok (IF its internally mounted) CES Ceramic coated dump pipes and secondary exhaust - ok 80mm system with high flow CAT - ok (providing its less than the required Db) Apexi Power FC with Hand Controller, - out (der) NI Water Pump.- ok Tomei Poncams Type "B" and Tomei adjustable timing gears - ok (as long as the cam gears are covered) clear timing gear cover, -covers the last point ie get rid of it if u dont want an instant defect regardless... GFB Bleed Valve, - off (its altering boost) Tein Super Street fully adjustable suspension with EDC controller for on the move electronic adjustment. - off Basically they frown on anything that isnt std. So if yer buying the car fer all the bits, and end up taking them off later, is it worth the extra? They can be engineered, but it will cost, and once again regency can say no they dont like it anyway (law unto themselves) and dont have to comply with any engineers report.

Castrol SAF-XA is as good as any diff oil.

a rad place can do a power flush where they force the crap out. They can also tell u how clogged the system is, and even do a leak test afterwards to ensure u wont be losing any coolant. Or u can do it yourself, but it will be fiddly. One method for the heater core is to connect up the hose to the firewall hoses and flush the heater core out. Then u can see how blocked it is in there by the flow coming out. The engine u can just run one of the coolant cleanout bottles through it for a week or so, then dump and replace with coolant. The rad u can take it out the car and just reverse flush that...replace the thermostat with a std nissan item, and new rad cap. Bleed system and yer away... Id just ask the rad shop if it was me though for piece of mind.

1. Small leak in headgasket is one of the most likely the cause. It could be a leak from the coolant gallery to the combustion chamber only, which would allow coolant to burn (white smoke) U wont get oil in the coolant always from a blown hg. 2. Valve stem seals allow oil to drip into the chamber and would burn off blue smoke. Only usually in the mornings when the oil has had a chance to drip down. No chance. 3. Could be a turbo seal. Same deal, coolant being burnt (white smoke.) radiator places can do a test on the coolant to check for exhaust gas in it (forgot the name) Id advise to stop driving the car, or take it easy until u can get it tested.

only thing i can think of is like u mention that something is getting hot and allowing the pedal a little more play. Old brake lines may be the cause if the fluid is heating up and making the lines soft / swell...? Cubes i think said he had the same problem a while ago too..mines setup for daily driving so i dont really jump on and off the brakes a lot now days

a new radiator will always be a good step, but u need to have the rest of the system fully cleaned and flushed to work properly. Do u have the heater core system hooked up and flushed...have u had the motor power flushed, have u had the clutch fan (the clutch) replaced, new radiator cap etc? All of these things when serviced and running properly will give u the best cooling for your car, rather than replacing 1 item. Even ppl who have swapped out the fans for themos wonder why they get poor performace form cooling when their std system was running so poorly to start. U cant go wrong with the std cooling system for the best performance, but it has to be looked after.

compression test?

yup u need to pop the gearbox off the motor to get to it. It looks as if that one failed due to a manufacture fault, not a mechanical failure... The upgraded ones uas sell are used because the ball end normally snaps off. Id be looking into why that one seemed to snap off at the threaded end first before replacing as well.

this has been covered a lot. If u mean extra work as in cutting off and welding up the 4wd transfer case, then yes a bit of work is required. Plus the fact u are replacing it with an older box.....

ring em, or email em and find out.

havent used them myself but when i need to rebuild my twin - http://www.otomoto.com.au/

use whatever psitons your engine builder is happy with using.

u can get them cheaper in the rb20 vrs kit, which is the gasket kit for the entire top end. U get every gasket + the valve stem seal for cheaper than it is to buy the seals by themselves.