Bl4cK32

Wheres the option for football suckzors?

must be a 4wd thing then, as every 2wd ive seen uses bolt/nut setup.

use a vice grip on it and make sure u clamp it on hard. Then just give it some taps with the hammer again

H3c's are common now more than a couple of years ago, so dont stress about finding them. A few sponsors on here sell them as well, if not try ns.com as well. Its a good idea to fit a twin relays as well for the high low beam as the light switch sometimes burns out as there isnt one fitted. This can also make the std lighting appear brighter.

1. U can get 3" cats, so when he gets it fitted u will have a 3" flange after the cat. You can get a std system to bolt on after the cat for the inspection (exhaust technology rent them out i think), or have the muffler at the rear cut (same time the cat is fitted) and a flange welded on to slap a std muffler on for the test then just refit his muffler. 2. The gtst inner guards will fit, just need to weld a bit of steel to close the gap to the outer guards. 3. As long as holes are neat, they tend to disregard (so ive heard very recently) so make sure it looks nice, and its painted. 4. They check globes are working but shouldnt care about headlights being dirty unless they are really bad. 5. nope. std centre location required. Holes should be fine. Even if he has all of these fixed, be prepared for other items to be looked at. All bushes, brakes, suspension, seats being loose, wheel bearings etc. They generally try make u come back fer a 2nd time, so dont stress too much the first time through.

might be better to ask in the driveline section. There has been a thread in the last week about 2 people who have done the same. If u must fit the rb25 sump, you could just get it setup with a larger capacity and baffles / gates to stop surge.

like i said mines had noisy bearings since i bought it 2nd hand and has lasted over 2-3 yrs behind my 3lt. It could just take a service of replacing bearings and having the synros looked at (and replacing any dodgy ones) Nothing serious if u get it serviced now, however if something lets go while driving it can do a bit of damage.

1. If the lowest point to the ground is above 100m, and its secured well, yes. 2. As long as the job is neat they tend to turn a blind eye. All secure parts etc. 3. No aftermarket BOV. All std emission gear must be fitted, aftermarket one can be welded so its fine. 4. CAI - hmm...havent heard of anyone being done for this, but pod must be secured to inner guard. Might be best to remove cai just for the inspection. Pod is fine. 5. Yes. big yes. Basically have as much std gear on it as possible (except the ic) and u should be fine.

Im not starting an argument here, just claifying a few things. I never said that. I simply explained (not clearly) ive seen (an extreme power case) of a car that has been tuned safely and it did not have a rebuilt bottom end and was a stable package for the street. Car stated simply had a different head gasket fitted to lower the CR which was one of the reasons it was a reliable package. 320rwkw is overkill for the street and shouldnt need all spanker motor anyways. For a track car i agree with the rest of what u listed. If u asked i could have told u that the car in question had a headgasket fitted that lowered the CR to decrease the chance of blowing a piston, and lasted a long time (car in question was sold a long while later still running) I believe the OP never posted his power goals, or what he uses the car for. Please read i was just referring to a car i know of that was a street car that was reliable because of the setup it had / how it was tuned and it had a responsible driver Im sorry, but i refuse to believe this completely. How can a tune not effect at least in some part how long a motor can last? A good tuner here in Adelaide and is well known in the SA section tunes cars for a safe power level, not to squeeze out every last KW and get a high number to impress the owners friends. Its a known fact he has never had a car motor blow on ANY car he tunes (i will stand behind this as will all of the SA mob who gets their car tuned) but there are other shops in Adelaide with tuners who have motors get higher numbers, tuned to a higher degree and go bang. Known fact. Sure it probably had some part in both parties in why the motor blew, but at the end of the day the first tuner has never had a motor blow, and i know some of the guys who use him give their cars a bit of stick, with their power lvls not being extreme either. Just safe tunes. There are a few however who have the uber motors in SA and their cars have been fine for a long time now.

Simple. Cop explained to me when i got defected its actually illegal to drive an unroadworthy vehicle hence they can issue u with a fine as well as the defect notice. Mr nice policeman told me because i was nice he chose to wave the $180 odd or something fine so i got away with just the defect. Once again comes down to a) who pulls you over, and b) the mood they are in.

Also helps to know how the car will be used. Oil surge would be more of a problem a car taken out to the track would see id guess? Same car taken to the track would be driven a lot harder as well... Car i saw with the 320rwkw wasnt being revved or taken anywhere near its power potential, so there was no need for the uber spec rebuild bottom end. It had the power there yes, but there was no way u could put it all down doing a trip to the local shop for a litre of milk Track car id be inclined to have a built motor to prevent the problems mentioned.

have u had your suspension looked at in the rear left? Shock, bushes, subframe bushes? Arms? Have a look under there at all items, and if u cant see anything then take it to another shop to look at. Ask someone in your state section to recommend someone good.

Ive got noisy bearings in my 25t box and it had the same.

no need. Ive seen std rb25's go up to 321rwkw with good tuning. Get it tuned nice and safe and enjoy it.

I remember ringing one of the guys in the yellow pages a few years ago. basically got a lecture as the guy seemed on his high horse for no reason and mentioned a few times that he polishes the "Rundle mall balls" and can do a show room polish that will clean with just petrol blah blah. I try stay away from knobbers like that... If u have some time and patience u can do it yourself depending on what it its. U just need to use some wet/dry emery paper to take it gradually down to a fine polish, then if u can use a bench grinder setup with a polishing wheel, and use clay will make it a mirror. Really depends on what u want done though (is it smooth and flat, or has lots of surfaces etc) and how well u want it polished or mirror....

Why do u need to slam it? Its a nice way to kill a box as u are finding out. It is syncros, and usually when they are replaced they only do the ones that require it. I had a quote from nissan a while ago, and all syncros + parts was about $550. Might have gone up since, or u might not be able to get all parts.

there should be 2 wires attached. Grab a wiring diagram, and fix them up and see if it solves your problem. Powersteering can also be related to the speedo. Is your speedo working? (speed sensor tells the ps how hard to work, slower at high speeds and harder in a carpark) If it doesnt work it will cut ps usually about 400m / couple of mins up the road

Are the 20 valves undersized for the 25 though...? An extra 25% of displacement would mean a need for larger valves. I dont see any advantage of running a 20t head on a 2.5 or 3lt block, but ppl still think its a good idea?

till a rock flicks up under the timing belt. Then its uber tough looking on a tow truck

starter motor sold. Close thread mods.

ps pump sold.

whoa...hes like...psychic...he writes what everyones thinking...

i dont, cos then id be doing my hardest (sorry fer the pun ) to get pulled over (insert another joke here)

Nope its the same on a r32. Any lower and it puts stress on suspension parts / bushes

was going to do it recently, but starting uni (uni=bum) soon so unfortunatly all my plans for the line will be on hold for a while.