Bl4cK32

Yeah there is... 1. Have rotors machined 2. Rebuild calipers 3. Use new pads, and install shit kit shown. 4. Run in pads properly. Guaranteed no squeals.

no news is good news?

so it is. should be similar to the 31 pump then

stealing it is one thing, but thats frikin low.

only way to be sure 100% is to go buy a ported head from lewis engines for $1150 and do back to back testing. Results come back that there is a tiny increase in flow or response, can you then justify it was really worth spending that $1150 on?

Hole saw, drill and hacksaw, and a weekend planned. If your spending some cash, then a cheap press will come in handy and let you save money later down the track when doing other parts. Its only needed to do 2 of the 4 bushes, the other two can be persuaded in with a hammer and drift. Ive seen people do it by themselves over a weekend with little trouble.

taking a guess, but 4.5 year old threads might not have the stuff still available.

fixed your quote. Its a bandaid solution for taking out the subframe at best.

Call the workshops, and compare pricing yourself. There is a list of recommended workshops here which others have been happy with service and cost and are hardly what people would refer to as dodgy.

Might i add, searching the relevant sections in the forum as a whole to answer any further questions. Helping people is one thing, but asking for advice that is freely available and been covered numerous times gets old fast. Your not going to find cost of parts and labor charge, as it can change regularly. Use the workshop thread and make a phone call as suggested.

I never said revving to 6kprm is crap. Nor did I ever say that the std Nissan two piece isnt capable for the job intended. What I did say was that if you drive like crap and buy crap, expect to break things. Making an assumption because its probably your job to fix other peoples f**k ups isnt an accurate sample. For every one you fixed, there could be 500 perfectly fine ones out there running smooth, issue free and have been doing so for a long time that no one ever comments on. Ive never had issues (vibration or other), but seriously doubt it will bend or buckle. If it does, then ill report back, otherwise ill keep going another 100,000kms, "not regretting it"

Im unsure of how thick mine is exactly, but I dont go bouncing off the limiter or over 6K rpm regularly on the street. Ive never had problems with the single behind my 3lt with a lot of kms on it now. Buy crap and drive like crap you will get problems.

from memory the only difference is an extra chamber for the hicas

If you take the belt off, and remove the hoses, then the bolts holding the bracket to the engine it should come out. Go to Nissan and see what parts are available for your particular pump. It should be similar to the r31 pump, then this might help: http://motamota.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?topic=144627.0

a bit. Im not going to explain it all, as its been done to death. Search and find the answers here, which is why threads like this usually die so fast.

Ive used my car as a daily in the past, and the last time I was defected the cop was pulling out of a side street as I was coming past in the front of a pack of traffic. The cop basically raced, weaved and then stuck his lights on behind others to get to me specifically. Once he looked over my car, even commenting on how clean and standard it was, chose to defect me for less than 5mm too low. I wasnt driving like a moron, nor do I have any large bling on my car. Its as stock as a rock for all intensive purposes, and well kept. Those are the police I refer to as **** who dont do their jobs.

local nissan dealer...ill look for the receipt on the weekend.

No, pretty sure they weren't. People were saying that spending the money in the right places made more sense than rebuilding / forging a motor that is already reliable and can make decent power up to a point. No one said the 24 was bad, there are a few on here before who have already built them, with threads on results. The point was for the same 5-6K you can have a built 2.5 or 3lt with a lot more drive-ability and potential. Bringing the turbo on quicker is irrelevant...what turbo, what engine? GT40 on a 2lt vs a 2530? Right turbo matched to the right motor for the right job.

sorry, lost it a while ago. If you explain to the dealer whats in it, then they should have it on file.

Whats the deal with everyone wanting the factory weather shields on skylines these days? When I bought my car, you could have given these things away, now everyone seems to want them...? Ive got a set here that came with my car, in almost mint condition. Might have to see what the sell for...

What id like to know is how come we all seem to not be able to pull out the driveway without being pulled over for a defect, yet these criminals can drive around numerous times using the stolen cars to steal more imports...and not get pulled over? Am I missing something other than a balaclava, set of screwdrivers and some tool kit to keep in the car that guarantees to not get noticed by the local on duty?

Are you referring to the Nissan Brake shim kit? I bought one and it cost me like $22 from the local dealer, and comes with the copper grease. Never had an issue with any squealing or noisy brakes. Comes with all the items below from memory except items 6 & 7

The look nice n stock. Ive emailed JJ before and gotten no replies from a question I had. Wonder if they are silicon filled like std ones, or just solid cast?

Its a big job, but well worth it. Not everyone likes having their subframe solidly mounted to the car increasing the NVH somewhat.

Rule out the cas for sure before ripping out the motor. Even if it means getting a second opinion of a different tuner. Can't see it being pistons if you are using the same setup as numerous people