Bl4cK32

cheers, will ring them and check back.

Thanks, but I should have mentioned I need somewhere in the northern suburbs.

I need a quote done on a small job for insurance. Does anyone here work or own a repair shop, or know somewhere good that can help me out? Need some help on this as I've had no luck so far, Cheers

edit/ think they wont fit, nvm

rear end excessive movement? Subframe bushes

I think everyone would know it isnt a diy job for the most part, and wouldnt go spend hundreds on tools, a press, then the parts to rebuild on top. The cash spent to get a shop to rebuild it would be worth the outlay and save a headache of doing it. Most people have the common sense to read between the lines and know when somethings worth doing in the end. Then again, if someone comes along and says that they can rebuild one, id like to see how they manage. I dont care what Jim Bob does after reading it, with his screwdrivers and hammer

Because it would be nice to see photos with a good description on how someone has managed to actually strip n assemble one, rather than a) Using special tool 2113-31413, extract reverse gear, making sure not to....

pretty please I wouldnt mind having a look at a complete how to guide some awesome SAU member has made up for the whole community.... Have i laid it on thick enough yet?

frack. For $500, id come past and give it a whirl lol. Done it before, now i usually replace all the hoses when i pull motors. Saves these bs jobs.

feel free to put together a step by step guide for the 20t, and or the 25t box on how to disassemble and assemble. No one has done it, and would help a lot of people thinking of doing it. (Maybe scare a few out of doing it)

Say what now?

it wont though because there is always at least one cylinder with open valves, so my money would be on some valve / piston contact in the cylinders that are at the rear of the motor (the side that had no drive to turn the camshaft)

I'd wanna at least have a look (camera in spark plug hole) at the top of the piston to be sure. Why bother fixing it all to then pull the car off the road to fix again...

The only labour you can do is remove the gb, remove/install new spigot bush, remove/install new clutch, bleed etc. You will only get so far in rebuilding the box yourself, and end up taking it to somewhere to finish the rebuild. Do a search here and its the general consensus that the only people who bother to do this have experience and all the tools already. Syncros and bearings would be done together at a minimum.

3.5 years later...?

blockage in the heater core somewhere, could cause pressure build up. Theres manuals floating around the net which show how to remove and install the intake.

Got a couple of 32 GTR front guards here. Have a little bit of damage on both sides. Passenger side has a knock in it near the top down near the indicator, and the drivers side has a bit of damage around the inner lip. From memory the tyre got folded up under on that side. Would suit someone who either can get them repaired, or can do it themselves. Was going to do it myself, but havent got the time atm to do so, and plans have changed slightly. Im open to offers for both guards, so feel free to shoot me one and you may be surprised. Welcome to inspect before purchase / offers as well. Pm me here to organize a time, Im home most days.

whats the intended usage of the car? Power is sort of irrelevant as a track car would have more of a need for better brakes than a street car sitting on 60 all day. Keep in mind nissan did a good job with the brakes, look at brembo factory calipers maybe as a good upgrade before spending big $ on the biggest and best only to be let down by worn bushes, and poor rubber on the tyres.

Doesnt really take much to build a motor and avoid what the OP went through here. Hell the guy who built mine was used to working on v8s etc and its still going strong years later.

updated list above in quote. Thanks for all the offers so far, much appreciated. Wouldnt be able to get the line back working without the help.

Just read this and all i can say is ouch. If you have decided to name the builder, feel free to shoot me a pm so I can avoid em. Wont go any further than me.

no thank you

Last time we measured mine + cubes was around 9:1 Lets be serious here. You want to drive it on the street and have good power. The std motor will do that on a reliable tune. It depends on how much work you want to do yourself as to pricing. Are you referring to drop the car off and pick it up, pulling the motor and fitting yourself, or getting the short motor built and fitting the head, or having the parts machined and assembling yourself? See how complicated it gets? A motor recondition would be about 3k back to std if you drop the motor off. Get it balanced and thats extra. Forged pistons add over 1k to that easy, but why do you need them for a street driven car with a good tune? Think about what you want to do, and stick to it or it will end up blowing 10k easy. btw, 3k stock rebuild doesnt add fluids, pre and post tune etc so it will blow out easy.

ive seen a tow driver pop a wheel lock like it wasnt even there due to having been 1/2 stuffed by thieves already...new alarm + club lock would be nice.

condition and price?