Mike__

I think those dissing the Buick V6 fail to realise they wern't designed as a high revving performance motor....so very far from it. Rather a low revving motor with good bottom end torque built to last. For those that know there bikes IMHO there the 'XR' of cars From experience my ol bunky VN passed along hte generations is still going strong. My m8 has it now with the original motor unopened. reads 400,000km +. He hasnt bothered to change the oil in the last 45,000 (i was the last to change it). This is not the only one i know off.....

9yrs ago i used to own a ser2 rx7 running a ser4 13bt. Bought it for $5500, sold for $4500. wasnt a bunky by any means. Price 2day for them has skyrocketed as there getting harder to come by. wish i had kept it. Awesome lightweight and addictive to drive machine. with 209rwhp (stock turbo @ 12psi, 3" TBE, old school wolf 2d) i ran a best of 13.9 @ 173km/hr (note traction was a problem but good top end). Reliable if properly setup and VERY easy to work on. Definetly weekend only car IMHO. rebuilds are cheap/easy as pointed out above. My advice would be a later model car for a daily as pointed out above. check out www.perthrotary.com

$9/$10 @ northside

maybe there dyno just reads a little lower than others / maybe they've inputted a wrong parameter does it 'feel' slow? maybe drive another car with identical mods, Or even better hit the 1/4 mile and your terminal speed should be ~178km/hr+ just saying there might be more to it than a dyno readout don't oil the filter - > not good for AFM's mike

32/33 essentially the same motor & turbo setup, more torque & a high limiter? Different ecu, dumps, crank. ?? 32 is toughest, but im biased driven a 33 though. same mods, same performance, car keeps a neater line but feels to big for me.

Just to give some conclusion to this thread. changed the gearbox oil with castrol VMX (didnt want to fork out the $$$ for full synthetic syntrax incase it just spewed out again). Box feels better, as is always the case with changing the oil but everything feels firmer with the heavier 80 weight oil (OEM recommended) compared to the lightweight shockproof that was in there. Much prefer it. Most important thing, havnt lost a drop of oil since thanks to all those who replied mike

Motul 8100 xcess 5w40 syn changed every 3500k

got a single holder from Malz too. was $7 or something from memory.

Thanks steve. Going to replace both diff fluids aswell as th xfer case whilst the areas are accessible Report back here once i've had a chance to change + longish drive Mike

just checked transfer case. definetly ATF, & at the correct level. Drained it anyhow to replace Drained the gearbox oil, ~2.7lts total. So i lost ~1.4ltrs out the overflow wed night, got me stumped to why it spewed out. Going to replace the oil with some new stuff & see if it happens again. Anyone have any ideas? i know these boxes have an internal pump drive, maybe something is wrong there...... thanks in advance. mike

Thanks for the response steve. I know the transfer case uses ATF but i didnt check if it had g'box fluid in by mistake, will check tomorrow. car is level for fluid checks. Still stumped as to what would cause the fluid to start spewing out all of a sudden, the car was driven lightly 2. Its seen the strip & 2 mild track days with no fluid loss. Might refill and see how it goes. maybe the fluid level has been low, caused the oil to get hotter and vent out the tube?

On closer inspection i followed the two venting tubes running along the top of the gearbox to the top of the bell housing / behind the rocker cover to where they vent. You can see fluid has been oozing out. Thanks gtr1993, the previous owner can the oil changed before i purchased the car, never leaked a drop until a few months ago. now i bad Atm i dont think the front seal of the gearbox is gone. Removed the filler bolt and no oil came out, so definetly not overfilled & a prior block in the line. Car is up on the stands ready to drop the box, just a little unsure what the problem might be now. anyone got any ideas?? Thanks Mike

yeh breather hose / 90deg outlet is in tact. Have all the right tools thanks

Hey boyz, For the past few months i've occasionally seen a drop or 2 of the smurfsblood oil on the floor of my garage. Wednesday night & a longish drive i think somethings let go because i lost a bit of oil. Jacked the car up this morning and hte entire underside of the box + some rear of the car has been sprayed with oil. Leak appears to be coming from up front on top where the box meets the bell housing. Also seems, but hard to tell its leaking out the small hole on the bottom where they meet. Am thinking hte front seal of the gearbox is gone, & the clutch / flywheel is picking up the oil and throwing it out a vent up top?. The gearbox oil was changed just before i bought the car ~2yrs/6000km) ago so it cant be overfilled. Theres 2 pipes that run above the box. there both covered in oil but no oil internal, assuming one of these is a vent. So just wanted to post on here incase theres something im missing to check. + have pulled a few boxes out in my time but am literally dreading this one so wanted to be certain be4 i get started...... By far my most favourite car ive owned but damm what a bit^* to work on. Thanks Mike

See above for my opinion on the r1r's. From my own research/ info from the toyo motosport dealer in perth r1r's are an old model semi slick. used 2 be called the 'trampiro' and made in 2 sizes only with a tyre wear of 100. Now there back on the market with a tyre rating of 140 (told to make it legal for some classes?) & available in a wide range of sizes. My doing this i spose theres little R&D which keeps the cost down. tyre shape is very 'square'. my 225/50/16's have a slightly wider footprint than advan yokies on my brothers evo in 235's My cars only driven on w/e. i do under 4000km per yr & an occasional track day hence the choice

probably just a thrust bearing

Take your AFM's off and clean them as suggested in post #3 my 32gtr developed the exact same problem. Sometimes on v light throttle or cruising (no boost) everything went dead, then would stutter/hesitate for a second or 2 then feel normal again. Got on the forums, learnt how to do a self diagnostic check on the ecu. Came up with a fault code from the AFM's. Took them both off, pulled the covers of as suggested in the DIY section, all connections/solder were excellent. Noticed the actual 'element' part of the afm in the airflow was covered in oil from accululation over the years. Removed the flywire @ both ends, sprayed a heap of RP7 to clearn them up the elements and noticed there red . Reinstalled AFM's and instantly the throttle response felt a lot more crisp. 4 months later and ive never experienced a hesitation. Hope this helps Mike

thanx

k thanks

My lockout spring snapped 2 $2 spring from nissan. drop crossmember, take cover off & replace

What about 32's?

Nice work!! Mines always had a very minor leak & didnt want the risk of a 2nd hand unit. Did you bleed the entire system again once changed or just the nipples on hte ABS unit? Glad the seals r in Perth, was expecting them to be over east have printed out your list. thanks Mike

yes tyres fitted to wheels when weighing. Can't recall exact weights prior but they were similar to what i listed below. They may have been a little less as they were the 'clip on' type and hence sat further away from the centre of the wheel than the now stick on type Just checked total of counterweights on all 4's with the new tyres: 25g, 45g, 55g & 80g Scales have been consistant in the past but they do only round to 100gm so the difference could be less. Yes i could have weighed x 2 heavier wheels be4 & x 2 lighter ones after without realising & the difference would be less but either way i did expect them to be heavier, but was not the case Mike

Leave it........... we dont want riced gtr's. nismo stuff is ok

+1 for the stockie forged / lightweight 16 x 8's. Just put on some decent rubber Just went & got some new tyres fitted the other day, the owner of the tyre/wheel mob who deals a lot with the motosport side of things here in Perth said there one of his favourite wheels. equivalent quality set of aftermarket rims are ~$3000+, asking if i knew where any 2nd hand sets were. Mike