Mike__

good stuff

Incase anyone is interested in weight differences i did a comparision with a quality set of bathroom digital scales. Wheels are stock 16 x 8's Be4 with 50% tread left on 2yr old Falken 329's = 18.5kg After with new R1R's = 18.2kg That was weighing two different wheels each time. I realised after it was too late but i should of weighed all x4 together but anyhow i did expect the r1r's to be significantly heavier with the thicker casing, just goes to show the difference in the quality of rubber used i spose Mike

Finally got around to fitting some Toyo R1's in 225/50/16. Incredible tyre, by far my favourite i've driven on a road car. Car now steers so much quicker & a lot more feel through the wheel & obviously excellent grip. Car has a host of suspension upgrades, before with the old tyres you'd feel them roll/squirm, now the suspension gets worked a lot more The car had brand new Falken ze329's at the time of purchase. Got on here & everyones opinions were the same as my initial impression. In other words stay well clear of these!!! For the Perth guys i got these through Mark @ Bayswater Tyres who's the Toyo Motorsport dealer. Price was $235 / each. Thoroughly recommended shop. Mike

Sounds like you did exactly what i encounted. My master cylinder carked it when i was changing/flushing fluid, pads, discs. pumped the pedal too far down beyond the point of where the rubbers have been making continous contact during normal braking & destroyed them Bought a recon unit and good as new Think i paid ~$200ish Mike

sounds like a great idea hope it all works out for ya definetly be interested especially being 10min away

your reverse lockout spring has snapped. had the same problem. ring up nissan, part costs $2. drop cross member, lower the box and take the cover of up top below the shifter its on the passenger side. get nissan to print out a diagram. go to total nissan wangara. up on a hoist is easier. mike

theres a long thread on hicas removal. sydneykid uploaded a lot of images & instructions. your fitting is maybe a replacement where he loops a hose evocoop: howd the low speed handling change on your car with the hicas removed?? thinking bout doin the same, vept the pump part mike

Also have aussie spec super street teins. very happy with them

agreed with the self diagnostic check, which is how i knew my AFM were causing an intermitent problem. do a search and find the link, + a list of the codes. from memory and this is assuming you have the same single led rear ecu (mines 89')... remove passenger side kick panel undo ecu turn screw on rear of ecu all the way to the right turn on ignition, wait 2 seconds turn screw all the way back counter clockwise the led light on the rear and a light on the dash will flash the code (check with list of codes)

blue smoke is oil burning white smoke is oil heating up not being burnt. You might have a shagged turbo check coolant/oil levels & if there contaminated by one or the other. agree to do a compression & leak down test

Dont know the gaps of the top of my head, never replaced/regapped mine, do a search the problem doesnt sound mechanical as you said the car idles fine/normal & builds boost as per normal. am thinking a boost leak but you've said you already checked all hoses. could be a stuck open bov. you've dropped 0.3 bar all of a sudden and theres misfiring, spluttering so am thikning theres still 0.9bar worth of fuel going in

black smoke is excess fuel checked AFM's? Mine started to occasional stall whilst on light load. needed cleaning and now all good, better + better throttle response. Checked plugs / gaps / leads ?? with increased boost the spark can be 'blown' out with a large gap/stuffed plug as boost increases yeh can imagine very few nissan turbos floating round in gero

thanks for that.

that power levels normal, nothing special done. mechanic mustnt work on too many rb26's read teh rb26 thread.

thanks for the reply yeh was thinking along those lines. Whats the average addition in weight compared to a normal street tyre (225/50/16)? mike

hey boyz, Looking at replacing the tyres on my 32 (stock rims). The previous owner fitted them just before i bought the car 1.5yrs ago. obviously going with some cheapies. Falken ze326's. first impression was there terrible. Done x2 'skid pan' track & there were uselss. got on the forums and found i wasnt the only one. Had to let them down to 25psi @ the drags to get traction (mild power setup/stock turbs) to achieve a 1.9 60footer. The cars only used maybe once a weekend. Has a lot of suspension work done with qaulity gear but is limited by these p.o.s tyres. Grip / dry handling is the priority. Car never sees the wet. Have spent a lot of time reading and have decided between the toyo r1r & the 595rs-r. Read grip levels are very similar but which has the stiffer sidewall? kind of leaning towards the rs-r due to less 'grooves' in the tyre, so the rubber would move less under cornering?? thanks Mike

had the same problem. $2.50 lockout spscring snapped . do a search, someone posted a diagram from the manual showing the location & part #. you'll need to undo the crossmember and lower the box to access the cover. located on the passenger side of the shifter from memory.

I had plenty of MotoX bikes though my teens & have owned a few sportbikes the past 5 years. Last roadbike was a K4 gixxer thou. Yes bikes are cheaper to run & maintain and can be thrashed repeatably more reliably with little to go wrong, (mine ran 10.6 quarters repeatably). With the latest ltr bikes you'll see 160km/hr in 1st & ~200km/hr in 2nd, yet pull 6th gear comfortably from 30km/hr (gixxer excels here). One thing i learnt was that the 'majority' (not saying all) of riders out there who rode R1's were posers & left a little to be desired with there riding capabilities. So if you havnt ridden before or have little experience riding i'd be opting for something a little smaller in capacity. Latest R6's will reel of low/flat 11's & wont send you skywards everytime you crack the throttle in the lower gears. In the end I got back into modified cars, & discovered i dont always have to go fast in my gtr to enjoy it. Yeh the gtr is a moneypit compared to bikes but figured the money wouldnt make a difference if i was dead or disabled. Just my 2c. Mike

Been thinking bout this turbo to replace my stockers (rb26), response would be excellent. Full boost @ 3800-3900 with the stockers. With 18psi it had 337hp atw. So better response, peak hp. Main reason is the simplicity as a lot of others have pointed out. Hate the clutterd stock setup, especially after having a 13bt with a basically empty engine bay & a 45min job to replace a turbo. Quick question & sorry to hijack but how would you retain 02 sensors on a factory ecu?

Why are you going to spend $1000+ for a PowerFC, then install & then get it retuned when the stock ECU can be reprogrammed with Nistune to run bigger injectors/Z32 afms etc etc My brother has the exact same setup as you, cept 34gtr steel wheeld turbos, nismo pump & all forged internals etc etc. Runs sard 700cc injectors on 15psi atm. Eventually he'll upgrade the turbos. Car runs very smooth. Retune was $880 through hyperdrive here in Perth. They swap some of the ecu out initially (which is why its a little more), every tune after that is $145. They've tuned them fine with upgraded twins, but yet to do a big single I know the power fc has a more capable processor but dont see anything wrong with the stocker. just my 2c Mike

I live in the area. will keep that in mind. thanx

My car made a little more power than this on 18psi on the ceramics. Cat back, intake & retune. Obviously turned it down once i purchased it. Full boost comes in ~3900-4000. thanx for the replies

Hey guys, Brother recently had his 32gtr reflashed. Car has the following mods: Full forged rebuild 34gtr turbos steel wheeled intake mod cat back & hks Y piece profec b 2 ebc Target was to go to 18-19psi, but @ 15psi boost began to flutter (can see it on the dyno sheet as a wave), ended up with 315rwhp & my brother picked the car up & filled me in on hte results. Driving teh car boost arrives hard ~1000rpm later than mine @ ~4900-5000rpm. Top end is very good when it comes on. Spoke to the tuner & he suggested as i thought, a boost leak, weather its a bov leak or pipe. I asked if i found the leak and upped boost to ~18psi would this be safe. He said not 2 and it would run very rich. Just wanted a 2nd opinion if he runs the risk of doing any damage once boost is increased a little due to timing etc etc regards Mike

Can get brand new garrret 2860 -7's in the group buy for $2150 delivered. If your looking @ the rebuilt N1 steel wheeled 32gtr turbos on ebay there $1595 + shipping?. Better of having all brand new parts than recon ones IMHO. Garret 2860's are BB to. Instead of paying $1000 for a power FC + fitting, tuning etc etc just reflash the original (find a tuner that has nistune....think its called that). My brother just had his done for $880. After this $140 for a retune in the future if you change anything. Just leave it on 1 bar and should pull a comfortable 260kw. mike

Have pictures but cant seem to get them to upload. Can email if anyone requests