Mike__

Hi guys, Selling some parts for my brother as he's upgraded them. Car took me 3months to find & there of a top example 32gtr which has 60,000km on the clock so there not of a banged out bunky. Motor was rebuilt 1500km ago & at the time injectors were tested/flowed (brother has receipts for this) & are in fantastic condition. Asking: $225 for Injectors $60 for Pump Location: Perth Contact: Mike 0448879495 or PM Thanx

sorry to hijac but... Is this correct? Thought the standard 34 gtr turbos would flow more than the stocka 32's? mike

Get my Pm?

good thread thread to add to the "quick Reference guide' sticky

Thanx Nismoid. Was about to post another reply as i just found the answers i was looking for in 2 threads on stock size steel turbines vrs N1 specs from 06 & 07 with your replies. Your info was consistant . Should have searched a little longer be4 Mike

Guys, Just read the receipt myself again. They dont say N1 steel wheels, just converted turbines to steel wheels. Sorry. How much then would these turbos pump out efficiently? thanx Mike

Thanx for the fast reply. The receipt says R34 BB gtr turbos. Rebuilt with N1 steel wheels (exhaust). Previouis owner said the compressor is standard. Would N1 steel wheels fit the stock housing? Or is the housing changed. Arnt the compressor wheels steel from the factory & turbine ceramic? Yeh should go nicely. Atm is slower than mine: stock with 14psi & cat back, but thatllm change. thanx for the advice

Hey guys, Posting this for my brother who also has a 32gtr. Has the following engine mods: Built Motor: Forged pistons, ARP bolts, eagle rods, N1 oil/water pump, 33 crank, rebuilt head etc etc. Basically all the usual good bits Turbos: Rebuilt R34 bb gtr turbos with N1 steel wheels Exhaust: Upgraded Y piece with a 3" cat back. Dumps are stock Atm boost is stock (~10-11ish psi judging by the factory gauge) whilst the motor is being worn in with only the boost restrictor removed & still retaining the OEM solenoid. Fuel system is stock. Looking at raising the boost shortly so my brother called a reputable tuner here in Perth. He suggested the following: bosch 040 pump $500 installed Greddy Profec B $550 installed/setup Nistune $880. + Up the fuel pressure a little to achieve ~17psi reliably without having to go bigger injectors Was thinking about purchasing the Nismo pump for $400 as its a straight drop in and setting up/ installing the profec B myself (done these before) to save a little $$$. Questions are: is the volume of air produced by the 34gtr turbos greater than the stock 32's? If we run 14-15psi without the tune would this be safe? Assuming the bigger fuel pump is in place How much boost can these turbos produce whilst keeping in there efficiency & what would an approx power figure be? Is it safe to up the fuel pressure a little for this application? Bigger injectors are a better choice but then + $800 for some sards which we'd rather avoid if not necessary Thanx Mike

Change the rest of your xhaust. Your cat is probably all torn apart and jamming everything up. Find a 2nd hand cat back, do something with the stock cat or fit a highflow. My brother has a stock Gtr with a built motor & steel wheeled 34 gtr turbos. Stock it was slow. Changed the Y pipe and new HF cat and cat back 3" and goes a lot better now. Easy 20kw+ If you dont want to spend a lot buy a gauge and a ball/spring type bleed valve to go with the pipe. Wind it up to 13-14. will really wake it up.

Have aussie spec Tein SS on my 32 gtr. Drives beautiful on the street, not harsh/bumpy yet still firm enough. Did a track day and a little stiffer would have been better. Suspension place that did all the work set em up with a 'medium' setting for the street. No complaints so far

Hey guys, Recently got one of these given to me. Searched the forums with no luck on info. Sticker on the CPU units reads: N1 - Sports/CPU AMR elecrtic fuel computer CT - 25602/RB26dtt-MT Has a nissan sticker on it with the code MEC-R282. made by hitachi On the front there is a small dial with an arrow around it as if its meant to be turned for adjustment. Just a factory N1 ecu? similar to a mines? Obviously wouldnt be suited for aussie fuel and would be made to suit the n1 turbos. just curious thats all. Mike

Do a search, been covered be4 with results. I even experimented on mine (cat back xhaust & 14psi), & couldnt believe the difference. basically scrap the bottom 1/2 to d/c it from the resonator setup & leave the top half in place. I have a k&n filter in mine. I had blitz pods on be4 but the filtration aint that great

Thanks for the info. I knew the 32 gts's was completely remappable just wasnt sure bout the gtr's. So previous owner was right then. Yeh thought the Y piece and dumps would change the tunes a little. Been thinking long & hard bout changing the turbos while im @ it for reliability issues cause have always been nervous of turbine failure. Happy powerwise the way it is though but have read too many cases of turbine failure especially since im running 13-14psi..... On the otherhand my best m8 has a EVO IX with a full 3" system, cosworth cams, 25psi + a verso tune, both cars are dead even in a straight line (small variances through changing gears) running exactly the same terminals @ the local strip (178km) but he'll be getting a bigger turbo down the track

thanx nismoid: yeh definetly doing the front pipe whilst im @ it. Paul: Yeh noticed how thin the pipes were. The previous owner claims the stock ecu was remapped but didnt think it could be done & i think he was getting confused with them (xspeed) meaning they were checking the AFR. AFR is 11.5. What benefit will changing the cam gears give? Is this changing the timing to give longer duration? would there be any downsides as in reduced bottom end? Mike

Hey guys, Have a mildy modded 32gtr -> 13psi (stock turbos), cat back 3.5", hiflow cat and modded airbox. Have read changing the dumps is a turbo off jobbie which is fine as its a w/e car but is it worth the time and effort & will the difference be noticeable in sound/performance? Who here has undertaken this? Will also change the front pipe @ the same time, or is this worth doing instead and leaving the stock dumps? Any info appretiated Regards mike

Happend to me, was the reverse lockout spring. Cost $2 from nissan. Undo your crossmember bolts and lower the box down slowly. To the left of hte shifter theres a cover, beneath that they'll be a broken spring.

I experimented on my 32 gtr, which runs 14psi @ a cat back xzaust. I bought the car with blitz suflow (mesh type) pods fitted. The previous owner gave me the stock airbox with a k&n. Did a swappsies cause i wanted that factory look aswell as hooking it up to the factory cai/resonator setup. I lost ~1psi of boost pressure, the intake sound disappeared and it was a lot slower getting onto boost. felt very sluggish & revved so much slower up top. Couldnt believe the difference After finding a thread which was currently on the go comparing hte exact same comparisions (and a ~35kw diff on the dyno) some of the guys were only leaving the top 1/2 of hte box in place. Tried that & siliconed the k&n into place. Results: factory look (unless u look close up), top end power back, good spool rate back and some induction noise back, but not as loud as the pods. mike

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Bl...al-t196346.html See my post at the very bottom

been covered be4 but.... Leave the stock solenoid in place but remove the restrictor from one of the lines going to it (has a yellow line around it). Over to your turbos: Both actuators (fiddly) should be connected 2gether and branched off with a 't' piece. Exit of this t piece goes to one end of your controller. The other end needs a vacuum souce, mine uses hte line for the factory boost gauge (going to a small black box on your drivers side firewall) with a t piece. Mount your controller near the turbos. Mine uses a bolt with a earth wire to the passenger side shock tower. Buy some tubing, x2 t pieces and install a proper boost gauge. Enjoy

thanx for the replies, was thinking the same thing skiwhine

Hi guys, Have a mildy modded 32gtr that im going to be hooking up an aftermarket boost gauge 2 as soon as it arrives, just a little unsure where to tap into. My ball/spring type bleeder gets its pressure feed from the vacuum line for the factory guage (off the back of the head going to that small black box). I know i can tap into this line but i'd rather another source, thought the ball spring type bleeder might effect readings or incase theres a small leak i'll have another boost readout. Have read about people tapping into the fuel pressure reg line but i'd rather a line a little more out of site. The factory boost solenoid is still connected (restrictor removed), will the line that had the restrictor in place provide an accurate reading? vacuum line to the carbon cannister? I know this is something simple and have installed boost guages be4 but this car has that much wiring/lines i want to make sure i get it right. thanx Mike

Im running a turboxs ball/spring boost controller (basically same as hte turbotech one) that came fitted with my mildy modded 32gtr. I was going to get a ebc, but figured i'll be spending $$$ just to adjust boost to and from its peak. This controller builds boost just over 2000, comes on hard & holds it very well to redline. The standard solenoid is still in place and working. The turboxs item has been installed by a workshop just above the turbos.

scooby: Removed the bottom 1/2 of the airbox as you suggested, but used some silicon to hold the air filter in. All i can is wow, shes back! Basically sounds/behaves exactly the same as with the pods. Maybe the induction noise was a tad louder with the pods but its back & so is a little compressor flutter . Dyno results would have been very interesting to compare. My car was apparently retuned with the pods in place so i dont know if this is a typical result. 4got to add with the stock airbox/inlet setup running the k&n boost actually dropped. Only have the stock gauge in place and with constant checking the gauge dropped ~1.5mm from when i had the pods in, now with the modded box its climbed to the same level as with the pods. Also experienced a little lag with the stock setup, now it feels the same as with hte pods. Least now the car feels the same as with hte pods with the added benefit of a little better filtration & a 'stock' look, but i'll be buying a stock paper filter in the future. Every car i've owned and modded the induction ive only ever experienced differences in noise, kind of mind boggling how much of a difference its made.

Scooby: Was thinking bout removing the bottom half of the box prior to just checking this thread. I put minimal oil on, basically near nothing but the std filter sounds like a better idea. The k&n came with the airbox Just checked, the resonator is still present and connected up. going to remove the duct from the airbox to disconnect the resonator effect and see what effect it has thanx

Interesting topic and im GLAD i found it. When i bought my 32 gtr it came with the same blitz stainless steel pods as your using scooby. My car runs ~12psi atm, has an aftermarket cat and 3.5" back & apparently had a retune. Ran 330rwhp on a dyno dynamics dyno @ 1.1bar with the previous owner and he gave me the sheets. Upon inspection of hte filters i noticed what little filtration they offer, my intakes were covered in dust. Since the previous owner gave me the original airbox & a k&n to go in it i decided to swap over. Results: no more hearing the turbo's spool up and a little compressor surge noise. Dead silent. Now my seat of the pants feeling. Im a believer in pods are more of a *wank wank* factor unless in high hp outputs, but i couldnt help but notice it felt slower. I coudlnt believe it so i gave it a lot of WOT and yeh, definetly slower. Felt slower getting on boost to. I drove the car the day be4 with the pods as kind of a back to back comparision. Whats hte resonator everyone is talking about? i hooked up the snorkel from the airbox to below the headlight but removed that 'internal joiner' as it seemed a little restrictive. I want to keep the k&n for its superior filtration (i added a little filter oil but not too much due to the afm's) but should i disconnect the stock feed to the airbox? thanx mike