WYTSKY

What Grease/Lubricant to use? Hey Guys, After 23 years of turning the steering wheel it's lost some grease/lubricant from behind the wheel and I can hear/feel the wheel scrubbing the plastic which dismisses the indicators as I'm turning now. I took the steering wheel off, the plastic covers, the indicator and wiper stalk to lubricate everything but found the lubricant Nissan must have used is a type of thick grease? It's honey color, almost putty like, can someone help tell me what do I need to buy? Thanks very much.

Hey guys, final update. Decided to take the car into work this morning (cold morning, stop start traffic for over an hour) used to be the worst scenario to make it hunt and rev a lot. All is perfect. Was great drive in, just purring while stationary the whole way so I'd say it's fixed! I did end up adjusting the fuel cut a bit which is what fixed the last bit of revs issue. So now my settings for Idle on the power fc are: rev limiter 7200 (aircon Off) f/c A/C 1110 (aircon ON) f/c A/C 1100 (Off) idle A/C 900 (On) idle A/C 900 I previously had the 1100 and 1000 I said earlier around the wrong way. So now what happens is high idle from 10 deg->68/69 deg (1500-1700rpm, but smooth), once past 69/70 idles at 900-950rpm. that's it, perfect and smooth. So as a summary the steps I did to solve the problem: 1. Adjusted the TPS to read 0.45v on closed 2. Raised the fuel cut with no air con from 1000 to 1110 Other things that may have helped: 1. Cleaning the IACV with Carby cleaner a couple weeks ago 2. Turning the O2 sensor On/Off to see if the O2 sensor was dead, my sensor is now ON and appears to be fine. Thanks for all the great help as always.

Johnny, thanks, will have a fiddle, I have wondered if that would help. Ad's. appreciate if you could compare values, I know each car will be different but to get an idea if mine is in the ballpark like I did with the TPS would be good. Would it be best to adjust IACV when car is in the hunting rev range or wait until it's at full operating temp? 89Cal, I'm not sure, been so long since it was done, I don't have a datalogit cable to backup the tune/reload otherwise I would do a new idle learn.

Ok so I took it for a decent drive today. Definitely a big improvement. It's hunting less aggressively and the revs aren't dropping as much - instead of dropping from 1500rpm - 900rpm and back and forth it's now only dropping to 1200rpm and back to 1500rpm slower. So what's happening now: 10deg-59deg high idle (1500RPM) stable idle, 59deg-71deg hunting still, but no where near as bad and only 1200rpm-1500rpm, 71deg+ normal stable idle at 900-950rpm. So the questions I have: - Is there a way to adjust that 1500rpm cold idle to sit at 1200rpm when cold to fix the last problem? Where to start - the Idle screw in the IAC? But that would adjust my idle overall. My idle settings in power fc are fine as far as I know : rev limiter 7200 f/c A/C 1100 f/c A/C 1000 idle A/C 900 idle A/C 900 - Should I try to adjust the TPS above 0.45v for idle to bring it up to 1500rpm when idling cold? or safer to leave it where it's at now? -Any other thoughts? I am already much happier with the result and reckon I can live with it now but would be good to fix it overall if it's just a matter of fiddling. Thanks.

Thanks Ads, thought as much but just want to be sure. Dan, I'll check it to rule out. Still haven't had a chance to drive it since adjusting the tps. Will report back once I have.

So I checked and the O2 sensor was enabled, disabled it, made a slight difference, the hunting was less aggressive, as in it didn't rev up and down as quick but it was still doing the same thing so I put it back for now because it didn't stop the issue. Then I used the sensor check on the hand controller and found the TPS idle was a little low for idle. 0.35v closed, 4.18 WOT. I've now adjusted it to be 0.44v closed (every time I got .45 then tightened it moved), and 4.24v WOT. The car is warm so wont be able to check till the morning but when I did turn it on the idle *seems* smoother already. Any issues foreseen with WOT 0.06V+ more then before affecting my tune etc?

Thanks guys, I've cleaned the IACV multiple times, let the throttle body cleaner really get in there and then scrubbed every part of it with cotton ear buds until the buds came out clean ( took like half a pack) let it dry, installed it and no difference. If I'm honest, the only thing i noticed was the hunting was slightly more aggressive then when it was dirty but that was about it. Perhaps buying a second hand one to test with might be needed.

RB25DE+T PFC idle Hey guys, Had this minor annoyance for a very long time, from memory probably since the powerfc was installed and tuned 6+ years ago. Maybe because I'm getting older it's starting to annoying me more. I turn the car on in the morning and idle is high, 1500-1700rpm, but stable. On the hand controller it all looks pretty stable, not sure if idle this high when cold is normal with other powerfc's but so far it doesn't annoy me. As I'm driving around and idling at lights while the car is still warming it's still sitting at 1500rpm, on the hand controller once the water temp gets to about 59-62 degrees it starts hunting, from 1500 rpm down to 900rpm and back and forth every 1-2 seconds and will continue like this until the water temp gets to about 72+ degrees then idle is perfect, 850-900rpm. The only way to control it during this time is let off the clutch a little bit until it bites and slowly lower the revs, then I slowly press my foot down on the clutch again. If I put my foot down too quick on the clutch or roll forward a little the hunting starts again. Only happens when the car has been sitting for a long time, eg overnight or all day and then come back from work and turn it on. If the car gets to operating temp and then I turn it off for 1-3 hours and the engine is still pretty warm no issue, idle is perfect. Now before I start playing with the TPS voltages and mucking around pulling apart things I'm wondering if this is just something in my maps in the low load/idle section that needs adjusting as it only happens for ~10 degrees so I would have guessed the voltages on the TPS are fine? Car has been tuned a number of times many years ago by a very reputable tuner. It happened as soon as I swapped the standard ECU to the powerfc and it has been like this ever since, even with adding in cam gears and a z32 AFM. I have used contact cleaner to clean the AFM and I've cleaned the AAC with throttle body cleaner and ear buds in every little knook but no avail. Any suggestions? I've found this post from long ago which seems almost identical so I'll give turning off O/2 feedback a go (not sure if it's enabled currently or not) but wanted to see if others had the same issue? Thanks.

Thanks, I did pull the door cover off the other day while tracing wires thinking it was the actuator, but when I realized I wasn't getting any signal I figure it will be electrical, and it's unlocking perfectly fine, I get a good solid click and the little lock flicks out the whole way to show it's unlocked.

Yeh I did, called the mobile and landline listed on the site a couple times yesterday, no answer.

Hey guys, I've had a basic Carzon alarm (CZ-600) installed in my car for over a decade and it's worked fine. All of a sudden the central locking has died, only when locking. I know the relays are working (I hear them clicking when I unlock and lock) and the door locking mechanisms are working as when I hit unlock on the remote the doors unlock and if I manually lock the drivers door the passenger side locks. I tested the wires at the back of the control unit and when I click unlock I get 12v on my multi-meter but when I click lock the wire that should get 12v is getting nothing. I wanted to know if anyone has an old unit lying around I can use to test or perhaps sell? Just trying to avoid buying another alarm and doing all the wiring. Thanks.

I've had 2 canaries while my car has been turbo'ed for too low and a few other things while on my P's, never for actually having a turbo (this was back in the power to weight days, and each time I convinced the officer I was under the power to weight) so when I had to get a RWC then go to Vicroads they all just checked the things that were marked on the canary. No one ever questioned should the car have a turbo, were you picked up for having a turbo?

Is true about the gearbox... and yes changing brakes and stud pattern over was costly and annoying so no arguments there

I have one of these hooked up in my 33 GTS4. From what I understand 32's Attessa system has a fuse and electronically engages the 4wd system while 33's have a viscus fluid and the system engages based on slip and the amount of G forces put on the fluid so only the 32s could use the 2wd/4wd switch. I've found it to be pretty good for a simple controller, and certainly does add grip. It simply tricks the Atessa system to think you're slipping - how much R% F% is based on how much you turn up the dial. 10 = 50/50% while 0 = 100%/0% or that 95%/ 5% up front while normal driving, whatever the normal ratio is.

Not sure on a 34 but when I first did the conversion I got 33 GTST injectors (think they are 370cc too), Walbro pump and a GTST ecu, ran 12-14psi off a bleed valve and it was fine. I don't see it as a great investment to put all the work in and miss a few pieces of equipment which limits your boost. I had the same thoughts as you about keeping the car. I like the car, it's clean and well looked after, mine is a GTS4 so I liked the AWD aspect etc so I decided to put the money into it. Provided your car has been looked after and the engine isn't tired you will be able to run more boost then what you are after with the right mods.

Price drop $600, great for a daily.

Hard to find old school Gmax Sport wheels Suits smaller cars. Wheel size: 16x7 Tyre size: 205x45x16 Stud pattern: 4x100 Offset: +37 Dish: 2.5inch Location: Melbourne, Mooroolbark These were on a small hatchback, front's have 3-4mm before the wear indicator. Rears have 5mm. Wheels are in excellent condition with minor gutter rash. Well looked after and only used for a year. They have been garaged the remaining time I've owned them (~7 years) even if they weren't on a car. I'm after $700 ono. Test fits are welcome. Adam - 0419 110 110 Even found a pic of what they looked like on the old daily

The closest I could think of is Greg_R31's old build which was an NA 26/30. Was work of art. one of his posts said power wise was: 225hp/ 167.8kw at 8200rpm that was back in '11, can't remember if it went up from there. I'm pretty sure he sold it since then but thats the closest I could think to what you are asking. Anyway have a read of his build thread. Had ITB's too. http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/374496-gerg-r31s-na-rb2630de/ As for stock valves becoming a restriction my unopened 25DE+T is still putting out nearly 300rwkw on stock pistons/rods/head. Hope that helps, good luck with the build.

The mods you listed apart from exhaust will do nothing. When I got my timing adjusted on a dyno for the very first time when the car was NA it gained 10kw... Thats more then 1-5 in your list put together. What you have listed are supporting mods - mods that allow the performance modifications - IE turbo - to do their job by keeping up with the amount of air going into the car by spraying more fuel or being able to measure a larger amount of air going into the intake, cooling a system that can generate more heat ... etc. 1 - Dont worry about AFM - it's an Air Flow Meter - it only measures how much air is going into the motor to then map against the correct amount of fuel. It's just a meter, as long as you aren't exceeding how far it can read (it reads in volts btw) there is no point. You wont Max it as you're not going to make positive pressure. When you add a turbo and turn boost up and pass around 200kw from memory(been a long while - could be a little more/less), that's when you need a z32/upgrade etc. Enlarged throttle body.. same deal... you would need a lot of pressure to warrant it. At least more then 300/350kw's worth.. don't worry about it. The only thing to say on this is a good panel filter with the factory snorkel is the best setup. I have a full custom heat shield enclosure and CAI and can say with a turbo the only difference I notice is response on freeway with cool air, just feels a little more responsive, not extra power at all, NA, you wouldn't notice this as the turbo loves to suck cold air. 2 - Only put a new radiator if required. Do you know if it is overheating? Possibly worth getting a gauge to measure (I have powerfc so could see the temps - factory clutch fan with a brand new factory radiator and in this weather I can't get it past 72deg, in hot summer days wont go above 80 - sits around 78-80 depending on traffic movement). Turbo's suffer from hot engines, NA do, but not to the extent a turbo does. It will not give you a single HP, its a support mod 3 - When you say oil cooler then refer to car being auto I'm assuming you mean transmission cooler? The cars you will be looking at will be mostly factory with exhausts? Are you going to track it a lot? Haven't owned an auto so wont say yes or no but wouldn't imagine it would be needed for a street car, or a street car with no/minimal mods. 4- Will do nothing, there is no point to more fuel if there is no extra air, all controlled by the ecu and doesn't matter if you put 1000cc on or factory, whatever is on the ECU's maps is what it will spray. You could force more in and then you'd just run rich (big black smoke out the back on WOT) and still not make any more power, you're missing two other parts of the equation - one is air, the other is something to tell the motor there is more fuel and air going into the engine - done by the ECU. 5- Also pointless - If you lived in Northern Territory, perhaps but a good clean flowing cooling system is way more effective Brakes - Not needed unless you definitely know you are going to turbo this car, otherwise waste of money, I left the N/A brake master, all fine. I knew I needed to upgrade the brakes when I was at about 200kw and the power the car was making didn't match the stopping power - I could get up to speed quick but couldn't stop quick. Suspension - As Nizmo_Man has said Extractors/exhaust - You will spend money on extractors and then sell them or keep them in the shed if you go turbo so just something to think about. That saves you 1-2 grand with 0 HP increases to go spend on something else. I know all this because I did all this - like you, on my P's etc... Listen to people on the forums here, they are d*cks to some because every year we see a new batch of soon to be P platers ask the same questions and what if and how about... etc... I copped it too a long time ago - but the underlying thing is they are right. I drove a nearly 300kw Skyline on my p's... I took the risk, I lucked out, many aren't lucky. I was pulled over and defected a few times, but not for a turbo miraculously. Adam

I do agree, I've felt it in 2WD with good pilot sports and that alone was a decent difference, I guess perhaps what i'm trying to say is the 4WD will be more forgiving without being fully setup suspension wise and will let you get away with stuff that you couldnt get away with in 2WD. But yeh, the biggest thing is cheaping out on the handling mods. I did too - not going to deny it - when your in your teens/early twenties and money is tight you could spend money for power or on handling and I reckon alot would choose power.

My experience with close to 300kw - I have driven around without my front drive shaft and son of rajab, its so easy to go sideways, it really shocked me how easy at half throttle it wanted to let go - albeit not with the best tyres, but that difference from 200-300 in just the rears is enormous. In AWD form (ie when the back wheels start letting go and Atessa kicks in) 300KW is extremely managable and a ton of fun to drive. What I noticed is in 2wd you do sit there spinning and it is fun to do so, but interms of speed, getting traction instantly when boost hits and that rush of your head smacking into the seat is what I find more thrilling, not making white smoke. So in 2wd form all the mods to get the power to the road are essential - as been mentioned, tyres, diff, suspention setup.

I thought you would Nothing against you Birds.

Ha fair enough, no doubt you would have had your fair share of sh*t in that time. Yeh very close to me. Nice area, hills, trees, bit more spacious compared to the inner city suburbs. Unfortunetly the Croydon shops attracts some drop kicks due to the station nearby but all in all a good spot for a family.

Do you just have these all in your memory ready to drop at a moments notice Terry? Best I got for this situation is a "Bird in the hand is worth two in the bush"

Just so we are clear - this is the sh*t stain right? All over his missus facebook? Guess she'll have to get rid of facebook too.... she mentions jet on one of the posts... Also copthis - as I said in the other thread good on ya, screenshots are much more forever then google's cache btw.... also this may help with your searching... The way back machine http://archive.org/web/