WYTSKY

+1 have to make sure car is running perfect.

good discount worth heading there to get my oils now

remind me to show you mine next time I see you... have done it + hinges and factory boot carpet ontop

+1 I'm always about under bonnets temps as I ran my car on a cold and hot day and there was nearly a 40kw difference when the motor got really hot. I first tried a decent exhaust wrap.... was absolutely sh*t, would never recommend - itchy as hell on your skin and does not do much for temps and after a few months I had a massive crack in my factory manifold. I bought another stock manifold, got that as well as the turbo's rear housing heat coated inside and out which made a difference, but not that much. The thing that made a massive difference - as in, I could not touch my intake pipe after a long drive it was that hot to the intake pipe feeling cold after a long drive was a heatshield I made out of aluminum which cost me $20

Lol imagine how much shit you would stir in the full body suit and one of those walking into a building and screaming omg everyone out now....

Just looking at the photos the number plates say WA - guessing cars current location? And yes you do need prices so admins dont lock thread. gl with the sales.

Thanks for the jokes guys. Ended up all good - They found one at another dealer that was built in mid Feb and complianced in early April and it takes about 4-5 weeks to get here so it was built and on the other side of Japan or already sailing towards Australia when the explosion happened. We signed up for the car today, find out tomorrow if we are approved - car early next week. oh and sport would have been fun... but she can't drive manual..

Is a very good thought, thanks, will give RMIT a buzz. Have thought about it, still contemplating it... but to give you an idea I have managed to talk them down enough that its less then 2 grand to go from a second hand 1 year old model to a brand new one with an 8 year warranty.... just want to play all the fields. Fine, call me paranoid, so far as I can tell this seems worse then they make it out to be, but my main paranoia is my fiancee in the car. From the research I have done we are always exposed to some form of radiation - our bodies have some form of it in them, but the thing they say is hard is determining that line between too low to matter and it could cause problems. These reports say they are too low to matter, but that can mean they are close to a constant xray from other reports. http://www.autoblog....ipped-to-chile/ - how would you feel if thats your brand new GTR they have detected with low levels of radiation? http://www.caradvice...diation-tested/ This is the radiation testing they are just starting to do now This is pretty interesting - radiation chart: http://xkcd.com/radiation/

Hey guys, My partner and I have been waiting a long time for her to upgrade her car and now with eofys we finally can get what we want - a Suzuki Swift. The thing is, the cars are manufactured in Japan and because of the horrible fukushima disaster, some cars are now leaving their country with radiation. We even have the guys at the dealership accept the car will be subject to finance AND radiation detection - meaning if everything goes well and the car is in front of us and we have signed our lives away but we then detect radiation we get every cent back and walk away and buy another car. We have asked that they try to find a car built between Jan 2011 and early March 2011 but they said they may have none left and if that is the case we really must try to test for radiation. I tried to talk to them about them getting the car checked but they said they wouldn't know where to go... I will try to push them to get this done as I believe it should be their responsibility to ensure the vehicle is safe - the problem is only now the Australian Radiation Protection and Nuclear Safety Agency are starting to check cars at the docks, but the majority of the cars we are looking at were built in April - only a few weeks after the disaster and came over a short time after that. Does anyone know anyone - family members, friends, workmates - I mean anyone, that has a geiger counter and is willing to lend it for a day for a slab? I would be truely grateful. Or if anyone has some advice on the radiation and the car? Thanks, Adam

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/13979-dual-high-beam/page__hl__low+and+high+beams

Thanks - well... you know how ppl with 3076r's and .63 bums in IG have boost problems? this is the EG.... you can see the boost line for yourself - notice the amount of useable power under the line:) This is one of a few I have all about 280-285rwkw... really need to get back to sam to crack 300s been crazy busy finishing my degree the past 6 months [quote name=ClutchBurndout-' timestamp='1308552170' post='5874307] looks like it would come farking close to the strut tower like a nuns Ass**le

hidden under heatshield you say? This was when I was test fitting to make another hole for a bolt. Great thing is it actually works as a really good heatshield because of where the gate is, I was getting a ton of heatsoak on the intake pipe - it was soo hot after drives I couldn't touch it... and it's meant to be as cool as possible... now its pretty much outside air temp, until I stop and the heat begins to sit and go up, but its generally much much cooler... did alot more then heatcoating.... with all the intake pipes on top you cannot see a thing under there.

Oh I'm sorry deary, couldn't be bothered is such a valid excuse. I took the time to respond to your post because at the time it was your first post and I gave you the benefit of the doubt that you did not know there was an enormous for sale section. Please take your plates and go to boost cruising.

I was worried too... have heard both good and bad... but so far has been fine, as has boost control. I did get it heat coated just incase.

Yeh Sam and I tried something similar (from scratch) to well and truely hide my external gate.... we waited weeks for the thick metal to come in... then it had to be machined.... was absolutely wrapped... then I did a trial fit.... Unfortunetly, because my car has the same chassis rails as a gtr, it would never fit as they are higher then normal gtst's and as such less room... so you really have to be careful about clearance.

Yeh, it is called a barb... as said, possibly to connect to one of the right angled barbs or to T off from another water line. you can just buy 2 like the one next to it with those hollow bolts to flow...

please post this here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/forum/12-for-sale-private-car-parts-and-accessories/

but the turbo guys will be too far in front... will be like 2 separate cruises

its works, but honestly your not missing much by the looks of the wall....

ppl are free to correct me, but when I bought my Garrett new, the condition was it has to be installed by one of Garrett's approved workshops and inspected and all this other crap... otherwise is blamed on installation.... so yeh you can get something from it, but half the people here are happy to do it themselves because it will save us money and we know that it will work and we wont have these weird after install woes.

ahhh.. found the thread I was looking for..... have a read of this..... sucks because attachment seems to have gone really weird to picture because it was... basically the guy removed the front housing of the turbo and the core, leaving just the rear housing attached to the turbo manifold, welded a plate over the large hole where the cartridge's blades were meant to go and left the rest of the exhaust system the same... you'll see the responses... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/300900-putting-a-turbo-back-in/page__hl__lol

you missed one or two...... power,reliability,cheap pick 2 out of the 3. No, the ebay "t3/t4" "hybrid" "TO4E design" "stage 1/2/3" turbo for $299 is not special, it will eat your motor first drive.

went to Knox last night in the Skyline, didn't see a single cop, quite pleasant actually

+1

Hey guys, One of my rear bearings is gone and I am going to replace both. Found a place that has them for $135 ea - things I need to know: - Apparently, the gtst and gtr bearings he has are the same for the rear, the only thing is whether the rear axle's diameter is 43mm or 46... he said it should be 43, but I dont want to get half way and then find out its meant to be 46... Anyone know? Thanks.