WYTSKY

If you've only got 5k it would be cheaper to look at 180's,silvia's etc.. but no job no car dude... seriously.. a tank of petrol is about ~$75-80 for 300-400 kms on most skylines, as im guessing your first car will be your daily, depending on how much you use it, could be 1-2 tanks a week... thought about public transport?

looks clean. power will be be about 170-185 rwkw.

I would go a better turbo, but then u need afm, injectors and fuel pump so thats about ~3-5k so instead I would go a decent non restrictive cat so you dont get f**d if you get pulled over and some rims.

Prob should tell people if you have 4 or 6 Juliette

1. Wrong section 2. Why are you selling it 3. take an actual pic of your unit

He'll prob make an account called plan c and try again.... if I want to run 22psi through my stock turbo will it be bad? will it dose over my mates vl?

I think this is my reason to mod, the drive to the destination, the skyline, well mine anyway feels special because I make it special, so the ride is always fun... and to know your right foot has this mountain of power underneath it is very satisfying. If you do decide to mod mate, choose things that can be reused, ie. dont get the next size up injectors to take you from 200-250rwkw, choose ones that will be in the 260+ mark so that when you aim for that 270rwkw you dont have to change things twice. 1 thing ash forgot is fuel pump aswell.. needs to be done. it is 10k+ gone, and maybe if your very lucky if you sell it with all that gear on there you may get an extra $1500-2000, but i wouldn't change a thing.

when did I say I didn't know what to do?

I'm 22, my gf is 23, I like the older ones, they know what to do btw, based on birds' appearance, i'd say he's about 22-23

That wont maximise spool noise, that opens up when your on full boost, you will never hear induction noise over that. A good size metal intake pipe and a pod will be heaps, it will be loud enough..

was interested in going to this, but car wont be ready by next Tues

exactly right.

Hey guys, I've been looking around where to get a new exhaust manifold gasket. apparently, the ones you get from Bursons for $30 that are silvery and have dimples in them aren't that great for higher performance applications. So far I have been looking around and I have found an official Nissan one on just jap for $130. http://www.justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=17983&cat=318&page=1 Just wanted to know people's experiences and what they use/where to get a good gasket. Cheers, Adam

theres things your missing mate, if you buy an n/a skyline, it will have the n/a brakes and it will be 4 stud. if you want to make it easy to find a nice set of wheels you need to convert to 5 stud and if turboing i suggest better brakes aswell. if you get a gts4 and you ever want to drop a motor in the only one that will work will be out of a stagea or GTR, unless your prepared to loose 4wd or mix and match blocks and sumps. interms of power. if you get all the factory gtst stuff and put it in the gts, this will include: injectors, afm, ecu, dump pipe, intake piping and bov, factory intercooler, turbo, dump pipe, manifold, oil lines and water lines, gaskets, plus things I may have forgotten. funny enough, add this all together and you get what a gtst does... about 150rwkw... if, like in a gtst, you get a exhaust, a bleed valve for abit more boost, and a fmic you will get similar power ~180-200rwkw... so its really the same, the only reason blokes on here turbocharge their cars is because they already have the n/a skyline. you don't, stick the n/a xr6 until your off your p's, then get a gtst if you want and mod that. Im telling you it will save you thousands in the long run.

I have been searching around, people seem to be raving about hpc coatings, havent been able to get a hold of them yet.

Got the manifold off and the studs out... unfortunately 2 broke in the block but i'll get in contact with the thread doc. I'd like to mention how much easier wd40 made getting the nuts off, I sprayed it in the morning before work and they looked all rusty, by the time i got home that night they looked shiny again and all came off fairly effortlessly. my next question: When i get my new manifold, where can I get it heat coated, does it improve engine bay temps/prevent cracking and how much does it cost roughly? its more then I thought, that crack goes right in there. I have checked flanges with a metal ruler and they are perfect. Adam

There you are man, was hoping another de+T bloke would post in here

I'd be up for some cs, just saw this thread, why is there no mention of black ops? one thing that sucks though... my net is so slow at home my normal ping is about 300 on my 6gb a month usb dongle...been meaning to get tpg!

get a multimeter and check the appropriate wires have voltage/power

Thanks, will check turbo properly, hopefully nothing is affected on it because the only part of it that was wrapped was the pipe to the gate on the back of the turbo.

Hey mate, do you still have the exhaust manifold and if so, how much?

yes yes, it has an ass the size of a super models...

19-20psi rb25de+t Me look, my opinion on this is If the non turbo motor is healthy and you know it is - compression test etc, you should be fine. The only reason I turboed mine was that it was a GTS4 and at the time i didn't know you can get turboed 25 4wd motors from stageas, but still, the amount of wiring looms and changeover stuff I believe would be a massive pain. cost wise depends greatly on your mechanical skill but i would say with doing alot of the mechanical work yourself on a budget with a few unforseen headf*cks about $1500-2000 to +T the de, similar price for just buying a new motor. The advantage of getting a turbo motor to put in is it is hopefully complete and ready to go, downside is you have no clue if it actually is a decent motor and how much time it would take to put in and wire up the advantage of turboing your current de motor is you know how the motor drives, hopefully know a bit more history about it and you dont have to change much electronically, just ecu and afm. oh and the end result of the higher compression that everyone thought was just going to blow my motor within a month means i have full boost (19-20psi) with the 3076r at 3000rpm is nice.

if it wont go above 2500-3000 thats definitely a problem with the afm. The reason it wont go over that is the ecu is not getting a signal from it - do check if it is plugged in properly and that none of the cables have come out of it.

I know its not that hard to change, just a pain. If the heatwrap can cause this that would be a bit of a relief so that at least i know my actual setup isn't causing this... that crack is massive, what was the cause? I called osaka imports, $120 for the manifold, Sam will get one for a lot cheaper if I cant find one for 50-70 bucks in the mean time on here.