WYTSKY

well, I did try one of those heat wraps, pain in the ass and F*ing itchy to put on, pretty much useless, took it off to find this crack with a stanly knife, never putting anything like that rubbish on the car again. So the crack did form with the exhaust wrap on, had it wrapped for about 6 weeks, still I find it hard to believe it cracked.... the only other thing I can think of is that because of the small .63 bum on the turbo and 19psi? I did have that thread awhile back about the extremely hot intake and that going the 0.8x housing would allow more flow and stop the turbo heating up? is that maybe something I should look into to stop this happening again? The exhaust is very comfortable on the back of the turbo, not stretching or pushing into it when it sits freely - about 2mm off the turbo. front/dump pipe does have a flexy join in it to reduce tension even further and the momo course cat back. oh and I anticipate I will have to call the thread doc out

Got under there last night, found this, sprayed it with soapy water and i was blowing lots of bubbles, so I was spot on. Went to performance exhaust today, Dave was very honest and admitted 1. They can't weld cast - or atleast it would not hold for long. 2. they can't weld upside down, so the whole manifold would have to be taken off. Now sourcing parts, getting a fancy gasket and other bits from the states from the recommendation of Dr drift. If anyone has a R33 Turbo exhaust manifold in good cond please let me know Thanks very much for the help guys.

Hey guys, Unfortunately my car has developed an exhaust leak today, and it has gotten louder over the day and the car has become very sluggish. Its not the normal high pitched squeal and I have checked the turbo and when I turn the car off I can hear the turbo spinning freely without any problems so I know the turbo is fine. I have an external gate welded on the back of the turbo, but have felt around the weld for air/sound and it is fine. The best way to describe the sound is like an unmuffled exhaust, as in no exhaust at all, just not as loud. I have put soapy water and normal water all around the manifold and cant see any bubbles, my guess is its at the back/bottom of the manifold. Later tonight when it has cooled down I will get under the car and see if I can see/hear anything further. question: Where in the Eastern suburbs can I get it checked/repaired? I was thinking Performance Exhaust in Ringwood, any other suggestions? Thanks, Adam

He said a HKS 3037s, those are the Garrett versions, HKS get them off Garrett and alter them for even better response/power.. etc... thats why HKS call it a 3037s and Garrett call it a 3076r

Someone showed some interest and you didn't answer. You will never sell something without the brand/model, how long its been running in your car, how worn it is There are hundreds of aftermarket clutches for cars... be more specific and im guessing the part is located in lismore nsw....

Tacho Showing Over 9000?! Love our tut section

Hey guys, Just a friendly reminder to take it easy over the holidays and just to let you know that there appears to be a massive operation underway on Maroondah highway, just before car city. Luckily was in the charade Adam

This can be a cause of losing packets (data) between the ISP and you. Similar thing happened to me at my oldies place and turned out the exchange (or whatever it is) out on the road had rust on some of it's components and was loosing packets. Best thing to do is contact your ISP and ask them to try to do a speed test to you, or for something you can test yourself to see if you are losing packets: I know you have Windows: click start, run (if using xp) or in the text area at the bottom of the start menu (Vista+), type cmd, and enter a black window should come up, in that type: ping www.optusnet.com.au -t ping is a way to check if there is communication, optusnet is the optusnet server and -t means keep going until you stop it... watch it for 2 mins and see if it says "request timed out" at any time. oh and push ctrl + c to stop it. Adam

you know how that drivers rear wheel wont roll, I have seen at panel shops they use dollys under wheels that can't move, you should be fine then making it mobile - either moving it to the correct position on the road or pulling it up onto the trailer and getting it out of there... that's what i'd aim for. gl

steps to upload a pic that is not currently on a web page ie. on your computer 1. Go to Add reply/full editor down the bottom of the page 2. Underneath the text area where you can type something there is a button called "Click to attach files" - click that 3. A window will appear, select the file you want to upload to the sau server, it will upload with a progress bar on the right. 4. you will see the bar disappears and on the left it has a small preview icon of the item and on the right side of the window it says add to post... click in the text area where you would like it then click "add to post" 5. It will come up with something like : attachment=blah blah... that means that file will be attached.. post and your done... If this doesn't work perhaps update your browser or get the latest firefox... Photobucket is another good example, you make an account, you upload your images there instead of directly through sau, then add the link into the sau post and your in business here is an example of using sau's uploader:

Honestly, better for you to take the train/pushy then to stuff around and drive without a turbo. You will have to make a pipe to join the manifold to the exhaust as already mentioned, plus remove the oil and water lines and block them, also have to stuff around with intake piping.Also, your car will barely run, be very very bad on fuel and an absolute dog to drive because the car computer (ecu) will be expecting a turbo. If you can't afford 100-200 for a second hand turbo, u'll spend that in a week or 2 on petrol driving the car running rich

Perhaps Illegal in your state? are you going to plumb it back into the exhaust or screamer? I had the same issue as you with my old turbo, my current one, with the external gate, the boost line is absolutely flat as- perfect control.

hey, gotta pretend where the rest of b band goes to the missus (red tube and other nonsense) I know its f all! cant joke on nets...

Trent, motor in the pic looks monstrous Just like to mention Josh that we have identical motors and with a good choice of turbo you can still get close to 10psi @ 2000rpm with good top end... I dont have my last dyno sheet in soft copy at the moment, can upload tomorrow if your keen, but with a gt3076r with a .63 bum I have 9psi @ 2400rpm and 18psi @ 3000rpm in 4th. For added response, the turbo is assisted with a gizzmo boost controller and exhaust cam gear, thats it, on a standard manifold. gl if you want to really try, but i would look at the new gtx3071 for even better response and all that for alot less headache

The rollover thing works after you hover over it 5 damn times... I only have 6gb of net a month (usb dongle) and I spend prob a gb downloading these damn ads.... I have one 1 idea that could solve it all: we could still have ads that drop down and we wont be annoyed... how? PUT THEM AT THE BOTTOM OF THE PAGE! put normal ones at the top and drop downs at the bottom... eh eh?

Unfortunately it is very rough. Based on what you have said to fix it: Needs paint small amount of body work drivers seat has small tear handbrak and gear shifter leather boots need replacing In terms of paint and bodywork I would have a rough guess at 3-4g to get a decent spray and fix up dents? probably more if you take it to a decent body shop... Have you had it checked what it needs for a rwc? That could be nothing - it could be 2g+ So after putting all that money into it to make it decent looking and hopefully driveable, it is alot cheaper for someone to buy one that is clean and has a rwc with no headaches. a car is only worth what someone is willing to pay.... If i was offered this car, I wouldn't pay more then $3g-3.5 all up as it is a project car... I don't mean to be rude but thats what I would pay as I know how much I would have t do it. To be honest, you may find parting it u can get alot more for it. gl

Clearly because the series 2 fog lights and indicators on the front bar look like a lego block

Yeh it was just the exhaust cam gear done and tuning for it, minimal kw increase and good response increase, back when I had a hypergear

Yeh mate, I can't remember the one I have but it made a decent difference, 500-800rpm earlier with boost.... Also, I only have the exhaust side done, I think its only the exhaust cam gear that makes a difference for boost response.

bump

Admittedly buying from the states currently is good as when I bought mine it wasn't - but there are alot of risks with shipping regardless - if it gets lost, if it is damaged in transit, if it is not as you requested... I would prefer to hold it in my hand in Aus in a store/from a private seller and know it is exactly as I expect it. Oh and because your new here I'll guess you havent bothered to read the for sale rules like I told you - I'll post the one relevant for you: 2. No price debates - put simply if you do not agree with the price being asked, do not comment on the thread. If you believe the seller is asking too much then either pm the thread starter or dont buy the items advertised - simple. There is to be no "My cousin can get it for much less" or "Your asking too much" comments Again comments such as the above will be deleted and if users persist in posting such comments, a warning will be issued One more post about buying it cheaper from you and I'm reporting it to an admin.

agree - I paid $1800 for mine brand new from a store with surge slots in the same .63 rear housing and .60 front - so it is good value - and warranty is pretty much useless with this stuff anyway unless you get a Garrett approved workshop to put it on and accept the warranty = $$$ There are alot cheaper 3076r's out there that are copies or do not include the anti surge housing, but this turbo has all the best attachments so keep your mouth shut S3SILO and read the for sale section rules.

Model: 1987 Holden VL Calias Reason for selling: Owner is deceased, unrelated to the car Price: $6000 ONO Condition: Good Contact: 0422596969 - Ilias Details: Unfortunately all I know about the car is what is mentioned below, the family would like to get rid of it and I wanted to help them out, I have heard this car goes quite well. Also, as from what I know, the family are prepared to negotiate a little on price depending on how fast the car can be sold. Silver, Unleaded, 3spd Auto V8 VTSS Fuel Injected 5lt Engine - Means it does not require an engineers as it is the same capacity motor as the original one. 65,000kms 2800 Highstall 3.9 LSD Diff Low ProfileTyres Full Electrics Power Steering Tinted Windows CD Player Battery in the boot VIN - AVL041918A Engine Number - VT431314 Original Rego - SPC 570 Images say a 1000 words so I'll let them do the talking, any further questions you can pm me or contact the number above. Adam

if they suit my car I call shotgun! will get in contact with you very soon BTW... any mob number? Cheers, Adam

Mate, fantastic job, I was nervous as, sucks about the wind. happy to do another sometime with a little bit of screamer recording Looking forward to the others. Btw, was done on the roof of the Mitcham Coles car park.