WYTSKY

He's made a single thread - this one... He's only posted in Jayson's turbo for sale thread and a single post in the Vic wasteland? Or am I missing something?

Guys, This guy has gone to a lot of trouble to identify jet2nv with corresponding posts from various forums etc. You may not care but if you were part of his scams you would, jet2nv has multiple for sale threads on here with different items you might have been interested in. This guy is doing us a favor. Read that entire for sale thread he posted in. He even mentions updating the Ban trader list to Paul, you might have a different opinion then. Good on ya copthis, need more blokes like you determined to get rid of dodgy traders. Note: I'm not normally one sided but after all the details copthis posted and the fact Jayson wouldn't show any receipts/proof or accept/deny your main question that made it pretty clear.

running 8.5 inch all round, different offsets though so back has more dish. Rears around +20-30ish, been a long time since I looked. Fronts are like +40-45ish... have 5mm spacers to clear GTST brakes. All I had to do was warm the guard liners to make them soft and just mold the edge where the wheel touches on full lock and all good but my front is legal height. Nizmo_Man - From what I understand they can be slightly different widths, thought it was the rolling diameter that makes Attesa chuck a spaz, have run different width rims before (only .5 inch difference to be fair, and was fine).

Sorry to hear, will keep on the lookout, seen your car around before. I'm in Ringwood East too, very close to station - my car is locked in garage and the door has twin 1cm thick rods to lock down and 2 cameras.

Excuse my ignorance if I'm wrong but an actual question - I thought the GTX turbos were meant to have 11 blades instead of the 6 like a GT? Still a good price regardless. Looks identical to my GT3076?

Correct, had some small knock stuff with lower AFRs, so this was done for safety and longevity, with the slightly higher compression motor temps are higher. Driftsquad look at the following and why your boost tappers off.

I *think* from memory - going back 4 years+ since the car last has been on a dyno, I have a 14psi spring and when straight from the gate without a boost controller it's in that ball park.

You should get more power then that - mine is 284rwkw but with a little bit more timing I have gotten it to 294rwkw however on some loads would ping so safe at this. This is just on straight 98, my gate is welded on the back of the turbo housing. Similar support mods, obvisously different ecu and tuner but for your reference:

My starter motor started squealing to high heaven a few years ago. When I took it apart it was chock full of clutch dust (probably when the old clutch couldn't handle the turbo) gave it a clean up and lubricated and good as new. It is a prick to get to but it's only 2 bolts to remove and I'd suggest taking it off for piece of mind, could be alot of dust not allowing the cog to spin fast enough. I tested mine by hooking the starter up to a 12v battery on my bench so I could watch the cog engage up and down the shaft smoothly and check it spins freely. The only thing that interesting is the lack of cranking or clicking... any wires from ignition or ecu that you think might be loose? This should help with the starter motor http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/333872-fixing-starter-motor-squeal/?hl=%2Bstarter+%2Bmotor#entry6445074

When you start getting above 200rwkw then you will need to think about brakes, but bigger brakes (like turbo ones now) are always a good thing. I'm assuming yours is a manual? first thing you'll need is a stronger clutch and then a bigger fuel pump if your going to drop another motor in. Driveline and suspension can handle it depending how harsh you are.

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/caroline-springs/engine-engine-parts-transmission/vl-turbo-rb30-8-to-low-9-second-motor-complete/1025508488

Just out of curiosity, since this guy isn't insured and I'm assuming you have all the details and he's not a complete a$$hole, why is he not fixing what he has damaged? If he doesn't want to pay, you have all the legal bits to go through, however I'm fairly sure in Victoria if you're hit up the backside in safe driving conditions it's the other driver's fault. Were you doing something you shouldn't have? Forced your way into another lane and stopped suddenly or something? If that's the case and it's your fault fair enough with what you're doing, but otherwise I'd be going and getting a few quotes to fix the car from reputable workshops and hand him one that's reasonable and tell him to pay for repairs - then sell your car if you've had enough. Also, as others have said, not worth 7-8k regardless in current state, once a car has had a decent hit and you're suggesting the rear end may be somewhat twisted, even if you fix it up to how it was, it has that history, more chances of weak spots, welding replacement body parts on possibly, not driving straight, doors being a bit harder to open/close, etc. Good luck with it, do feel for ya.

Just make sure you adjust the angle and pitch of the light using the screws on the back of the headlights. Best way to do it is line up head on from a large wall, about 10 meters back and make sure they are aimed slightly to the left and keep them pointing about the same height as the bonnet. Not sure where you're from but in VIC I am pretty sure they are illegal if not from factory (or at least I haven't passed a roadworthy with them in) but haven't had any issues from police with them. I got the first generations when they came out about 6 years ago, one finally died a few months ago so I put in 8th generations now. Ballasts are about a quarter of the size but other then that same power, same colour.

I've also got the gate off the housing. Had both the manifold and housing sent off ( can't remember the place but its about 120km out of Melbourne ) and coated inside and out to reduce heat as my last manifold cracked. It actually does seem to work, it's still bloody hot, but you could brush past it for half a second and not get burnt whereas before a quarter of a second and you were smelling burnt flesh. holds 18-19psi dead flat, I normally put a "heatshield" over the top of the gate so you can't see it. You can see the weld just before the gate is no where near as good as the weld joining the gate to the housing... that's the difference between a pro doing it and me and my mates still no leaks and has been a few years now.

Hey guys, I trawled the net looking for solutions to my brake squeal. I found this thread, used some ideas from it as well as others - the solution I have worked 100% - I have now had zero squeal for close to 8 weeks, washed the rims, rain, brake dust, everything - all been perfect. The reason I was so determined to get rid of it was I am using the skyline as a daily now and sitting in crawling traffic everyday was disgusting. Car: R33 GTS4 with GTST calipers and slotted rotors that got machined when putting in the new pads Pads: New QFM HPX, no shims Squeal: ONLY the front driver's side - loud as f*ck under low speed braking, otherwise everything was silent. Solution: 1. Cleaned all the grooves of the slotted rotors as they were really built up 2. Ruffed up the pad face to bed it in again using a wire brush 3. Used a cheapo no name brake cleaner and sand paper to clean up all brake parts including the locking pins that hold calipers in and this funny looking thing: (NOT the pistons or rubbers boots around them though) 4. I wanted to ensure this metal piece was in the correct shape so I took off the other one from the front passenger's wheel and noticed it was bent a little bit out of whack so bent it back. 5. When I first got my car serviced years and years ago someone must have used that disgusting red brake goo on my caliper's and it was all tacky and black on the pistons and boots, I sat there for a good 30 mins picking it off everywhere until it was all gone and gave the pistons a very light dry sand just to get back to metal. 5. I happened to have a spare front caliper in my garage that had an original set of shims - I took them off, gave them a massive sanding until they were spotless: 6. I then got a tub of Penrite copper eze http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products.php?id_categ=15&id_products=108 and applied a thick, even layer to the pistons, locking pins, shims and the back of the pads 7. Reassembled everything back together and bedded in the front brake pads again, it's been perfect ever since. Hope this helps others.

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=k%26n+high+flow+panel+filter Autobarn, supercheap, repco. Most people notice some form of marginal improvement. It is less restrictive.

highflow panel filter /thread

Fuse? they blow pretty easily.

Cigarette lighter. Comes on with first turn of the key (normally stereo and cigarette lighter) You'll enjoy them for 6 months and then realise they are fairly wanky but hey, I did it for a while. Best thing to do is install a switch. Still got the LED in the back to illuminate the skyline lettering.

In the GTS4 the attessa computer is mounted underneath the rear parcel shelf, behind the plastic cover in the boot, next to the battery and above the fuel tank. Mine played up along time ago, randomly doing it when starting the car or coasting, sounded like similar symptoms to what you're having. Turned out my rear wiper spritzer was leaking when I used it, that would drip down under the parcel shelf (taking some of that foamy yellowish stuff underneath the parcel shelf) and work it's way into the computer. I noticed it when I took the attessa computer out to have a look at it and had dirty looking stuff sitting ontop of it. Opened it up and gave a good but gentle clean with contact cleaner. Put it back in and hasent been an issue since.

You can run a standard S1 turbo ecu with all the standard turbo gear. What about injectors? are they replaced? factory turbo? factory na? from memory na's are 270cc and turbos are 370? Also, cant remember my afm labels - is green label the turbo afm or na? essentially you need to ensure all your air, fuel, spark is up to facotry turbo standard otherwise you will run into problems. ( you said wasted spark setup so it sounds like that should be covered) The 32 loom on a 33 rb25 with im assuming a 33 s1 ecu? I can't comment as I have never done it. not sure of the complications. Also exhaust - hopefully you have some form of upgraded catback otherwise the factory n/a exhaust with a turbo dump pipe will cause problems too. You said it has a FMIC, does it have a Bov? and not an atmo one, but a proper recirculated one? could be causing your stalling issues if it's an atmo one - do you put your foot on the throttle then let off in neutral and then it starts hunting?

There ya go.... http://www.akamoto.c.../dump-valve.asp group buy? or there is a whistle you can put in your exhaust..... girls will be chasing.

I would have guessed the plates mean the car has an rb26 in it.... bye.... as in leaving the reader for dust....

Yeh, standard turbo parts + full length exhaust, boost controller and a little tuning is in the 190-200ish mark. pretty much identical to a turbo, just with more response.