WYTSKY

We could just tie you down until the event? More seriously, What are the terms of Winton's payment system? Do they need a 10-X% deposit up front? or the whole thing up front? Im happy to pay into a paypal account to. But what about banks? I have no idea how this works but can't you set up an independent account that people can only deposit into but you cannot withdraw until a certain day? or the money can only be sent to winton's account? No idea, just trying to help.

Guys, bit of good and bad news. I spoke to the Village guy today about the movies we want to see and prices. - We cannot see piranha 3D because they are not coming out with a 2D version - We cannot even see Resident evil 3D because its also not coming out in 2D, so the poll is completely useless. Good news is we only need a minimum of 10 cars for the $10 a ticket price. So, can you guys each post up what you would like to see on lets say the 10th of Sept ( 2 weeks) and aslong as there is 10 cars I can organize the discount. Also, in light of the fact we cannot see Resident Evil in 7 weeks, here are two other movies that come out the same day as resident evil: Apologies for all this confusion, doing the best I can FOR THE 15TH OF OCT: Cyrus Still single seven years after the breakup of his marriage, John (John C. Reilly) has all but given up on romance. But at the urging of his ex-wife and best friend Jamie (Catherine Keener), John grudgingly agrees to join her and her fiancé Tim (Matt Walsh) at a party. To his and everyone else's surprise, he actually manages to meet someone: the gorgeous and spirited Molly (Marisa Tomei). The relationship takes off quickly but Molly is oddly reluctant to take the relationship beyond John's house. Perplexed, he follows her home and discovers the other man in Molly's life: her son, Cyrus (Jonah Hill). A 21-year-old new age musician, Cyrus is his mom's best friend and shares an unconventional relationship with her. Cyrus will go to any lengths to protect Molly and is definitely not ready to share her with anyone, especially John. Before long, the two are locked in a battle of wits for the woman they both love-and it appears only one man can be left standing when it's over. Let me in An alienated 12-year-old boy befriends a mysterious young newcomer to his small New Mexico town, and discovers an unconventional path to adulthood in Let Me In, a haunting and provocative thriller written and directed by filmmaker Matt Reeves (Cloverfield). Twelve-year old Owen (Kodi Smit-McPhee) is viciously bullied by his classmates and neglected by his divorcing parents. Achingly lonely, Owen spends his days plotting revenge on his middle school tormentors and his evenings spying on the other inhabitants of his apartment complex. His only friend is his new neighbor Abby (Chloe Moretz), an eerily self-possessed young girl who lives next door with her silent father (Oscar® nominee Richard Jenkins). A frail, troubled child about Owens's age, Abby emerges from her heavily curtained apartment only at night and always barefoot, seemingly immune to the bitter winter elements. Recognizing a fellow outcast, Owen opens up to her and before long, the two have formed a unique bond. When a string of grisly murders puts the town on high alert, Abby's father disappears, and the terrified girl is left to fend for herself. Still, she repeatedly rebuffs Owen's efforts to help her and her increasingly bizarre behavior leads the imaginative Owen to suspect she's hiding an unthinkable secret.

My mates said it was so bad it was funny, likes snakes on a plane sorta thing.. Im happy to organize whatever, the problem is ppl vs time. I tell you what, I will get in contact with the bloke I spoke to last time and see what we can do for a short notice say up to 10 cars maybe for a Friday night movies in the next 1-3 weeks and see what the best price is. +1 for tits

lol, I thought so too, but tell me what other choices there are out there that actually look good

Ok, looking like its going to be resident evil. In light of the fact that it is 7 weeks away, Im sure I can organize another in between now and then. Having a look at whats coming out soon, Would you guys like me to setup another movie night (new thread and all) for The sorcerer's apprentice? it would be on the 10th of Sept, leaving apple peal at 8:00pm.. I would need a definite coming of about 15 to do my best with discounts

Yeh i did, i must have been looking at the sept calendar as u will see there is a friday on the 17th Thanks for that. FRIDAY the 15th of OCT for RESIDENT EVIL, not the 17th

Well if everyone was that keen for a movie sooner we could all go see Tommorow when the war began on the 3rd or 4th of Sep. (9-10 days) But I would need numbers of exactly who is coming in the next few days if people wanted to do that.

Honestly I would, but I have a decent amount of assignments coming up and I am not sure I would have enough time. I may be able to do the first one and one of the other two. Over the summer though one every 2-3 weeks is something i'd be aiming to organize.

Hey guys, I thought its been a while since the last drive-ins which were very successful, so here is the next one. This time there are choices. Pick the movie you would like to see, but be aware of the dates that they link to. What I can confirm so far: Meet location: Apple Peel Car Wash - 1 Fitzsimons Lane, Templestowe Meet Time: 7:00-7:30pm on a Friday, Date not set yet Leaving time: 8:00pm SHARP, this is because last time when we went to watch inception we got there 20 minutes early and it was almost full already. I would like to arrive there at about 8:45 for a 9:20-9:30 session so we can all line up next to each other properly this time. Destination: 155 Newlands Rd, Coburg Price: Hopefully $10 like last time, I will do my best to get another group discount from Village, but need definite numbers of around 15-20 minimum if I do. Movie: Not set yet Map: Will be provided on the night if needed Also, If weather is decent a cruise may occur after. Route:

great contribution, hope you enjoy sending your pms now.

Yeh, honestly was not 100% sure but my way seemed to work if you are careful with the terminal. For me to get to my battery from the boot would take about 1.5-2 hours alone to remove amps mounted on a custom floating wall and all that, and I normally go through the back seat by removing the backseat and the plate behind it but it was raining outside and I was doing it in my garage where i can only open my door 1/3 of the way to get out so I couldn't pull out my backseat glad you guys liked it.

I did block off that little hole and let it sit upright and drip down Also did attempt to remove those phillips heads but even with some rust thread loosener and wd40 I was still starting to strip them and gave up on separating the solenoid from the starter. cheers

I would def be interested. It would be a gym day but I will make an exception

Gayyyyyy, will be finishing uni for the semester/ studying for exams. Do it Nov/Dec

SIGH, wrote this whole thing then pushed back by accident I know it has been longer then 6 weeks, but there have been alot of set backs. The 18 psi has still been holding perfect and since I have had the new turbo on the car the largest knock I have gotten was 17psi at 6,800 rpm. This is whats been happening: - Still using the standard head gasket, tuner has said no need to change unless there are problems - Been to the tuners 3 times in the past 4 weeks, with all these issues for those last 16kw: -1. Went to the tuners to get a flange ally welded to my cooler pipe because I have been driving around without any blowoff valve and the car has been fluttering like crazy. We got that done but it was too late to tune so had to block off the new bov and drive home. -2. Next week went back for the tune. Car was running fine the night before but on the dyno it was misfiring bad. I had to take it home and gave it a full service including oil, sparks, cleaning in the valley of the head and giving all the splitfires a good clean. The car was then running really well. -3. The next week went back again. Car was doing really well but I didnt want to use the bleed valve i had been using, I wanted to use my gizzmo electronic boost controller. It was really good. Brought boost on a couple of hundred rpm earlier and harder. We were doing a run for 20psi so I would finally smash into the 300's and it was going really well, got the same peak power it had made before (284rwkw) but at 5,000rpm not 7,000, so there was still 2,000 to play with Then, all of a sudden a massive bang, car was running like poo. Found out the reason - I had made a heatsheild to cover the turbo so cops wouldn't know about the screamer, but unfortunately it was so hot under there it made the rubber cooler pipe joiner go hard and it popped in half! By then the tuner had another client waiting so had to quickly replace the pipe and get out of there. Last week I had to do assignments so we scheduled again for this Friday. Hopefully it will finally be the day I get to the 300's! On the controller, as there is 6 boost settings, I have been switching between 18 and 19psi and both have been fine on the tune with no knock. I'll let you guys know the progress as soon as all these little hiccups are sorted. Adam

Well, we tested it outside of the car by hooking it up to a car battery and letting it spin for a few seconds to see if the cleaning and lubricating had fixed the problem and it did. We also tested the solenoid and it was a very fast push and retract so I was pretty sure the problem was fixed. Thats exactly what my mate thought too. That the solenoid was not pulling the shaft back fast enough and the cog was getting spun on the flywheel at a much faster speed then what the bearing can handle and therefore making the squeal until it gets pulled back. The thing with it taking a week is probably because of the grease not getting in fast enough, thats why we used a thin grease to get into the hard to reach places straight away. Heres the link to the tutorial I made http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fi...ue-t333872.html Thanks for all the help guys. Adam

Hey guys, Been a while since my last tutorial so thought it was time for another while I was fixing something. Long story short, For the past 6 weeks now my starter motor has had a really loud squeal for the first 2 seconds of turning on the car and I was sick of it and worried something bad would eventually happen. DISCLAIMER: This is how I fixed my squeal, yours may be more serious and need a replacement unit. I take no responsibility if someone attempts this and the results are not the same as mine. Also, none of the cog fins were bent in mine, meaning it had not been rubbing against the flywheel so I knew there was not going to be any damage putting it back in and reusing it. Tools: Torch - I guarantee it is necessary A good socket set A pair of hands that can get into VERY tight places Lubricants and cleaning agents Time required: 15-30mins for someone who has taken it off before, 1hr+ for someone who hasent. 15 mins of cleaning and another 30 mins of putting it back on. Level of difficulty: Easy-Medium 1. Disconnect the battery as it is wired directly to the starter motor. For R33 that normally involves getting into the boot behind the carpet. Instead, I decided to disconnect the terminal that the starter motor connects directly to in the engine bay. It is under the fuse box lid located on the drivers side. Make sure you cover the lead so it doesn't touch anything, just to be safe 2. Find the Starter motor. It is located here 3. Remove this plastic cover on the solenoid and undo the bolt that holds the lead to it and disconnect the thin black wire as well. There should now be no wires connected to the starter motor and solenoid. It is best to do this from the top of the car, not underneath. 4. Get underneath the car and only just loosen the bolt in the bottom left hand corner of this picture a tiny bit. This is because it is one of the two bolts that holds the starter motor to the bell housing and the other one is much harder to get to so this will take the pressure off the top one. 5. Now the top one. This one takes the most of your time. It is probably one of the hardest bolts I have ever had to get to on the Skyline. I managed to get it from on top, but whatever way works for you. It is located just in front of the firewall towards the top of the bell housing that faces the front of the car. It took me 5 minutes just to get this clear pic. If you are struggling, the way I did it is get onto the engine, put one knee on the drivers side strut tower, the other on the radiator support bar and looked right down here towards the ground. I then used my left arm and ripped 500 grams of skin off by jamming it all the way down there with my ratchet and a 14mm socket and took it off while watching it from the top. 6. That was the hardest part. Now undo the bottom bolt and remove the unit from the engine. I did it from underneath. This is what you get. Very dirty. 7. Clean it up internally as best you can, I used a combo of degreaser and wd40 to clean it up. The problem with these though Is they get rid of grease and you do want some. Once it was as clean as I could get it I needed to Lube it. We had some Motul chain lube spare which is a thin grease, which is good for this application. 8. This is how it should look cleanish. You should be able to move it one way fairly easily, it will be a little stiff, the other way should be very very stiff if not movable at all. This is because it is a one way bearing. 9. Now put back in the reverse method of above. Once again I put the bottom bolt in first from undearneath, then got on top of the motor and did the top one, found it alot easier putting the unit back in then getting it out. And your done! Hope this helped you guys. Adam BIG TIP: If you want to test it out of the car and see if it still squeals after being cleaned, get a car battery and hook it up to it for a few seconds. You could also hook it back into the car and hold it while it spins, just be careful.

Thanks for the help guys, I sorted it. I am going to put a tute up for people for future reference and will post the link here too.

ok interesting you say that because I already noticed that. (I posted this yesterday but the damn servers went down and lost the thread) I have already done a fair bit of wd40ing since i posted this, and yeh i have just been able to turn it one way with my finger, very stiff, the other way doesnt spin freely but it is much easier to push. I was worried it was that stiff one way. Tell me this, If these do fail completely can they break anything else ie something falls into the gearbox? or will just the units stuff up and that is all? if there is the potential for them to damage something more serious im not going to bother with this unit and get someone elses for 50-60 bucks.

It squeals on startup, as in when its trying to crank the car over. It does it 95% of the time. the only time it does not do it is if the car has just been driven up to running temp, turned off and then turned on again. ie run up to the shops for a minute. every other time it will.

Hey guys, About 6 weeks ago my starter motor started doing the 1-2 second squeal that is so common with skylines. Finally had some time today to get it off the car - after about 45 mins of trying to get to the top bolt of the starter motor and loss of about 500grams of skin I have it off the car. Now I have been doing some searching and some reading in regards to stop the squeal, some say replace, some say simply cleaning the carbon off the inner side will stop it. I have no problem replacing, but wanted to have a try cleaning first. So to clean, what do you use to clean inside it? carby cleaner? degs? wd40 for cleaning and lubing? How have you guys managed to stop the squeal? I am so sick of people looking at my car like it is a bucket of crap when i start it. Thanks.

good news if you will have around the 14k mark, your choices are broadened alot. Let me just say that I bought my car, an R33 (before I turboed it) dead stock apart from a 2,000 momocourse exhaust for 12,000 on the road with 84,000 on the clock, grade 4.x something. So they are out there. It would be sensible to try to get a 34, I dont know for 14 though in great condition, and unfortunetly I cannot tell you any places to look at because I am from Melb. Thing is, I did get mine from an importers and he was reasonable. perhaps put something up in the nsw thread about where to get good imported cars from? ppl have done that in the vic section and they normally get a fair few results. gl with it

No one has really answered your questions here, so i'll have a shot. EDIT: except for mad082 as I was writing this! It is definitely a good idea to do a tonne of research before you buy one of these cars. The more info about the car's life in jap land/previous Australian owners is better. When you say N/A R32, you may or may not be aware that the majority of them came in a 2L form. The 2L (RB20) motor is said to be very rev happy by alot of people on here, however it is very lacking in down low torque, meaning that you don't get that nice pull back in your seat, its just very bland. Most people in your situation would try to put the N/A 2.5L motor into the r32, the RB25, or try to get one with it already in the car. Thing is, there may be a need for an engineers certificate in order to do that properly, so there is more costs associated with that too. N/A Skyline motors arent that different from your common motor, maintenance is very low, eg oil every 10,000kms,sparks every 15-20,000km? not alot of things break because there isn't that much power and generally they are a very good jump in and go car, so you shouldn't be spending too much. Unfortunetly if $4,000 is your max price range then the only skylines you have available to you are ones that have been abused, there is no other way to put it. Lower price bracket, lower quality cars. These WILL be the skylines that cost you an arm and a leg to maintain because they have lots of things wrong with them. I suggest you look for a different type of car if you want something easy and in your price range, otherwise try to save up to around 8,000 and your skyline options will widen alot for N/A models. Just so you know, a common Magna will easily be faster then an N/A 2L Skyline and in your price range. Something to think about. Adam

Jess and I will be there no doggy this time though if any of you blokes wanted the promo girls to come to you, you can borrow him.

Mines one of the big fmic's and quite thick. I didnt do it, a workshop that does not exist anymore did, but they barely shaved anything off it. didnt look so hard to do, mind you I didnt know much about my car at that stage. you can barely notice it, cops have to stick their heads under the license plate to see it. I rekon it looks good. I think yours is the factory front bar and mine is the factory body kit? not 100% sure...