WYTSKY

well, i did most of it myself. so depends how good you are with the tools. do you have an oil drain/oil return on your block? I cant remember the older stuff like manifold, gaskets, standard injectors etc etc as they were done years ago, so you need to do some reading to get all that sorted first. hehe, cheers bud. i said to myself, i'll be happy if we get 260, absolutely satisfied at 280 and any more is just a bonus, i'll see what happens with the gizzmo ebc as we are just using the bleed valve atm which is fine, but the gizzmo gives me 6 different boost settings so wouldn't mind an extra psi or so to really crack into the 300's very very occasionally and have a few different combos.

see this is the thing that I dont get. I purchased it brand new fully assembled from a Garrett distributor as a gt3076r with .60 inlet and .63 exhaust. but the core says 3037s, I thought that was a HKS model or core or something they did? and the bell mouth insert came with the larger Garrett anti surge front housing, but we havent needed to use it as yet as there is no issues with surge.

Yes the sound has grown on me, but i have spent that much time and money on it that I would hate to have to take it all back to standard and jump through all the hoops the cops make me do just for the sake of a few db of loudness. as long as I can make it still have the same power plumbed back and a bit of gate noise I will be happy. exactly

Stao, it will be an interesting comparison, your prototype looks really good. Thanks for the interesting info Dale. I only took this to winton when it was non turbo, but I have been wanting to get to some track days, so the higher piston temps is something I will have to think about. Jono your very welcome, thanks for posting up you dyno, I will have to get the torque graph off Sam. interms of boost building fast, it is under a second delay from foot down to boost and have always enjoyed that about the car as so far it has been a 98% daily. thought i'd crawl under the car and show you guys the screamer:

cheers, its all standard internally from unitconverter.com.au: 284rwkw = 380hp 295rwkw = 395.6hp I want to see when I set my electronic boost controller if I can have a few of these settings ie. high boost, mid boost, low boost Adam

I always thought that was required with higher compression motors to sustain good power? well as long as it is safe and putting out good power then I am happy! thanks guys

ahhh yeh, built.... well......ehhmm.... stock n/a pistons, stock n/a rods, stock n/a headgasket, stock n/a rings... catch the drift? (live life 2 testicals at a time) jokes aside Im definitely going to do the head gasket next when have cash to be safe, a healthy motor is extremely important to me. and what you have said interms of how it drives is exactly as mine feels, if in gear it builds up fast with a decent pull back but drop a gear and basically light switch and minimal traction in 2wd ....and I bought new tyres 2 days before I put this in! Thanks for all the support guys, really makes me proud of whats been achieved and proves that setting realistic power goals with sufficient funds and equipment actually gives you a great chance of achieving what you want.

wow mafia they are so similar, I'd guess the reason mine has about ~15-20kw more at the speed lines up to 6000 due to higher compression motor? tell me, because I have not seen my torque graph and based on yours, do you find yours is also a progressive build up or a light switch type of boost?

Heres my long awaited (almost) finished product: + = = and good times We actually got it 5kw shy of 300 but wanted to make it safe as possible: @18psi this has a max knock of 20 which is nothing

Thanks guys, I will have to investigate about plumbing it back in then. also Trent, I have never put your graph next to Sam's but yeh interesting find.

when you say drop, drop in power, torque or both? your right interms of boost, it has a building up sort of feel as oppose to the on/off smack boost feel but i was going to worry about that further down the track, plus this is my only car so want to keep it somewhat comfy. 1 thing I have found interesting, even though this has heaps more torque/power, it "feels" slower, I think that is partially because I havent put the front drive shaft back in and the car just keeps skidding, but im not sure whether it is also the clutch having something to do with it.

Hey guys, A few months ago, I showed you guys my brand new Garrett gt3076r (with the 3037s core) and a .63 exhaust housing external gate: I really wondered if it was ever going to be put onto the car as there were set backs for both me and Sam repeatedly. The initial idea was to have a special adapter that had the screamer pipe attached to it and went inbetween the turbo and the stock manifold and tucked the gate right under the manifold to be hidden, it looked great on Sam's rb25 motor when he was testing fitting it. Unfortunately it wouldn't fit on my car,even after shaving it down as much as possible, as we worked out because it is a 33 GTS4, it has higher chassy rails (same as a GTR) then a standard GTST, so after waiting months for it to be completed it had to be scrapped. We then opted to simply weld the gate onto the back of the turbo, I was disappointed as the gate would be alot more visible and I would have to make holes in my new precious turbo, but didn't want to go with internal gate. over the past 2 weeks I did most of the work myself with Sam giving me help and advice every step of the way and finally the car was ready to get onto a tilt tray to his shop on Friday. He fixed up a few loose ends that I forgot about/couldn't do and called me last night to pick it up. Now all I can say is it is great to see the hard work and money I have put into it have paid off. Here are the results and before and after with my previous turbo. vs Loose ends: it doesn't have a blow off valve at the moment as the afm is relocated too close to the standard bov position so need to get it placed somewhere else, running on a bleed valve which is absolutely fine, but I already have a gizzmo ms-ibc and would like to use it. Also I am going to heat shield the whole thing so hopefully it can be somewhat hidden. Also, quite sure the exedy cushion button is not holding 100%, whats the next step up? say from 300-350rwkwish? Summary: We got it up to 295rwkw but wanted to make sure it was safe, so at this level, the highest knock is 20. It has full boost (18psi) at 3,400rpm in 4th, pulls you back really well all the way to red line, it was slipping on the dyno so had to have 2 guys sitting on back and the screamer is ridiculous, way too loud, so I will plumb that back in. Adam P.S I will try to get some videos up soon

Yeah, doesn't mean anything related to the age or wear of the car, its just a reminder to change it. I bought my car at similar amount of kms and got the importer to change the belt, theres no harm in changing it early but alot of bad things can happen if it snaps..... something you should look into doing soon.

Hmm, interesting, now that I have had some time I read through the other thread. So why would my tuner say it is required to install an additional .8mm inline restrictor then? and he is aware of the existing 2mm one in the turbo. this wouldnt have anything to do with the fact that the car was N/A and now turboed? the oil pumps would be the same if not mine would be weaker then a standard GTST pump? P.s for the smart asses - my tuner is not me, he is an extremely reliable mechanic who knows skylines in and out and is often spoken off on these forums.

sorry, was heading out the door to uni, just wanted to know so I could hopefully have an answer when I got back so thanks. Found out the answer, for people that are interested that is a 2mm restrictor inbuilt and it needs an additional 0.8mm one inline. Adam

hey guys, I finished installing my new turbo pretty much by myself, My tuner told me that I need an oil restrictor inline to the oil feed line. this is a pic from the oil feed line of my turbo (3076r), notice inside it gets smaller, is that what he is talking about or do I need that little circular thing placed actually in the oil feed line? Thanks, Adam P.s I have all new speedflow fittings with braided lines

lol, baby steps... I heard the iphone language is similar to C, give us time to finish this one.. Paul, Will and I will have a crack at making advancements on this tomorrow, for now, I finally found the old project that was on one of my old laptops. clicky

got it sorted, my mate helped me out and its really good. mods can close. Thanks.

Hey guys, thought I would say I am almost finished putting on my 3076r with a .63 rear housing and welded steam pipe to 44m Tial gate on... alot of people have told me alot of mixed answers, hoping to get a nice responsive 270-280kwish with roughly ~16psi... sound possible? (I checked dyno thread and as people have noticed, not much in there for this setup) p.s soz, not trying to take over thread.

I googled unique exhaust and they are 7kms away, abit further but I would say less people that way as oppose to ringwood so hopefully less attention. thanks! anyone else got any recommendations or advice if there are mobile exhaust guys/welders? Also I forgot roughly how much should I pay for this? I would have guessed sub $150 as theres no supplying of parts, just labour?

Hey guys, My new turbo upgrade is almost complete of which i am doing 95% myself with the slight assistance of a well known tuner and some mates. Anyway the advice of my tuner is to drive my car without an exhaust very VERY sedately to an exhaust shop- apart from noise im relocating afm so will be lean and needs a new tune, so def no boost. I need to get the new exhaust flange (pictured below) on my dump pipe that needs to be cut, faced to the turbo and welded. I have done some googling and yellow pages, the closest place to me seems to be on 49 New St, Ringwood which is 3.9kms away called Performance Exhaust. Any good? or I would much prefer if there is some form of mobile welder/exhaust guy as i still have alot to do before I turn her on.... do lube mobile do that sort of stuff? says this on their website: "We repair or replace the Muffler, Exhaust Pipe, Catalytic Converter, Oxygen Sensor, Exhaust Manifold and all Exhaust Gaskets" much appreciate any help. Adam

one of the most common ones I hear is: "does it make that pshht sound?" and u half cringe when u say yes because normally the next thing out of their mouths is something like "all the woggy guys drive THOSE sort of cars" or "so your one of those fully sick guys" im a bloody aussie jew, give me a break... im not trying to be fully sick, its just my motor releasing the pressure my turbo has produced..... "your motor does wha?" never mind, you dont you just go buy a prius....

Thanks mate, in the end I figured that since it was blocked off, crap would go into it and then there would be no flow to continue on and just build up... thanks.

Hey guys, Just began putting on my new turbo which is water/oil cooled. My current turbo is only oil cooled and thus the water lines were blocked. I took off the pipe that was blocked off to this t piece that sits at top driver's side area of the engine and this is what I found in the t piece.... the one thing to note is that the tube that is completely blocked with crap is the pipe that was blocked off.... don't know if that means anything.. questions: is this normal assuming the system has not been changed since car was made? should I be worried? finally, over the past few months I have noticed that the car is slightly hotter in normal running temp then normal... ie instead of 78-80 it would be 80-81.... but performance was/is still fine.. Thanks, Adam

your welcome. you may need to double double check because you obviously can't hear it with the motor on... if your pretty sure that was it theres a few ways to check: 1. a little soapy water on silicon joins 2. or, theres kits you can buy or make up involving a compressor and what it essentially does is you put a cap on at the end of the intercooler piping, ie at throttle body or begginning of turbo outlet or between what ever part you think may be leaking and have a compressor blow into it with your motor off so it is quiet and you will definetly be able to hear the hissing if theres a leak... you can also make this up yourself, if you youtube mighty car mods theres an episode where they make one.... couldnt find it, but if you look for more then 10 seconds you should find it..