WYTSKY

Yeh, definitely might need tick boxes instead of radio boxes up there, Im the same as Basti, time, money..etc... but would be interested, want to start getting into it once ive put my new turbo in. 2 other things affecting it for me: my lack of socializing with sau outside of the net makes me feel a little nervous, not that I will be judged or abused or anything, just I have close to 0 mates that are interested in cars, so no one to come with me. 2. I have been to winton once before, but barely knew what I was doing, what happens if your a noob on the track and everyone has to slow down as you go around corners? do u get hailed with stones as they flog past or whats the go?

In terms of cheap turbos, your going to find most will crap themselves first time you use them and shatter into your motor, so if you see a turbo sub 700-800 I would say dont touch (except for stock ones etc) The best bang for buck turbos around here that are reliable are hypergears. Im sure Stao will be in here soon enough and give some recommendations. Before you just look at upgrading the power mods ie. turbo, for your car to run correctly you HAVE to upgrade the supporting mods, which are things like: larger injectors to flow more fuel into your motor to cope with the larger amount of air being pushed in by a larger turbo (so the air fuel ratio can stay on par) ECU - the cars computer, to customize the maps of air fuel ratio, you will never get the most out of your car without one Air flow meter- Im assuming the old 31's have one, if they do, it will probably also need an upgrade as it measures the amount of air being pushed into the motor. Fuel pump - if you dont want your car to explode because there is not enough fuel in it then you have to have one, some tuners wont tune without a decent one. THEN you can worry about the forward facing plenum etc... but for now thats just wanky... its not a necessity in your case. get the above mods first and a decent turbo and you wont believe how much faster your car is. if you dont get the above mods, you might be able to squeeze 200-230rwkw from your current setup with a small highflowed standard turbo, which cost roughly 1100-1300ish to do, but seeing as you have the larger capacity motor, you can go a larger turbo without too much lag and have alot of power with it. The only problem is cash... you would probably be looking at about 2000-3000 to get the above then another 1200-2500 for a turbo, so there goes your cheap upgrade. Adam

ive seen a few of urs doof, they are always excellent... I just seriously want to know how it cost 300 for this guy to make essentially wot I did for 60... with multiple colours and moving lights etc etc I can see how the electronics can get alot more expensive, but this just seems basicly the same as mine.

Really? wow I didnt want it to seem rude, If ur selling it just to get ur moneys worth back on it, But i did it from scratch too...... how expensive were the lights/wiring and paint for you? My LED strip for the back was 50 bucks, wiring and switch 10 bucks, I got my panel beater to paint it and matched to my petrol tank cover for free as he owed me, I sanded the letters back myself and I had some silicon in my garage to waterproof it....

Im assuming ur directing this at me? I am not perfect at all.. I have my spirited drives, who doesnt? Infact I have a speeding fine sitting here next to me that I need to pay 64km/h in a 60 zone ... BUT I do not take part in illegal activities such as burnouts, doughnuts, drifting on public roads etc... the stuff they show on today tonight and that has been around for a long time that is associated as "hoon" behavior... So if you think everyone on Sau is sensitive, no one is asking you to contribute or stay around... EDIT: I said what he ^ said but in a dumber way

You know, I don't know why we are all so upset by this....apart from the hoon name calling and stuff.... I would seriously love the opportunity to take this bloke in my car for the weekend. He'll be expecting reving and dropping the clutch at the lights and burnouts in the street and calling cops p-igs etc... and he will get a calm, boring passenger experience just like any normal driver would provide, because most of us on here are! And as long as I keep the car above 20km/h his door will be locked and he will have to endure all my casual driving Common Ian, I'll show you that there are NORMAL, SENSIBLE young drivers out there .... but i'm guessing that wont be much to write about..... Adam EDIT: Ooo! at 999 posts

Sorry mate, 300 is crazy... I did mine for 60 bux worth of bits from Jaycar... U did a good job, but I would think this thing should only go for 100-120... gl if u get the price want!

1. would not try in the wet 2. When he says skids... i assume smoke and tyre marks... not sliding around in the rain waiting waiting for a poll do lodge itself into the front of the car...

Have you noticed that a lot of that blowby when you put your foot down has been removed?

I have a GTS4, same as u, but approximately X2.2 times more powerful based on the fact that when mine was originally dynoed with just a catback i got 105rwkw and I now have alot more... First of all, you should not be able to do "skidz" I didn't try to do them in mine as I respect my car, but the best you should get is a slight chirp of the rear wheel(s) - depending if you have an lsd or not... If you have anymore then this, I don't know how your car passed a rwc with shithouse tyres... The reasons you should only get a quick chirp are because: -The car doesn't have alot of power -When the attessa system (4 wheel DRIVE, not steering - that is called hicas) works out your back wheels are "slipping", it will immediately lower the power to the rear wheels and send some of that power to the front... so your car will stop skidding -Your probably doing it wrong anyway... My car was slow aswell... they will always be slow and they are roughly 150 kgs heavier then a standard skyline with all the extra awd stuff... so in the end it turns out your weight is probably closer to the VT's 1500Kgs... The only other thought I have is... is yours an RB25DE or an RB20DE? this means is your motor 2.5 liter or 2.0 liter? if it is the 2.5, that is normal, if it is the 2.0... well... you might just have one of the slowest skylines in history...

Also check out the WTB section... thats the Wanted To Buy area...

Where are you located? What is the condition of the headlight? fading? cracks? Any pics of it would be awesome. If your not in Melb, would you consider posting? Adam

Thanks anyway mate, done a few quick searches and this is what has come up: http://custompinoyrides.com/2010/01/how-to...me-thrower-kit/ "Generally speaking, there is an exhaust flame thrower kit for any gasoline-engined vehicle with a distributor or coil. However, it used to be impossible to get this to work with a fuel injected vehicle. If you’re mechanically and electrically inclined, then you can purchase the parts and do the installation yourself. Here’s how to DIY a Carb Engine Exhaust Flamethrower System. But if you run a fuel injected engine, it’s a bit more complicated to DIY the installation, as you will be unable to force the engine to dump excess unburnt fuel onto the exhaust pipes. But don’t fret, as there’s an Exhaust Flamethrower Kit you can purchase which has all the required gear, including a control module which will produces the unburnt fuel by momentarily interrupting the engine’s ignition system. Just note that doing this will accelerate engine wear as you’re pumping excessive raw fuel through the engine which washes down the cylinder walls and also contaminates your oil. It will also eventually destroy your catalytic converter. Make sure you do an oil change more often." And this too: http://custompinoyrides.com/?TpYNXZ3T "Q: Will I have to remove my cat converter or do any modifications to my engine? A: In most cases you will have to gut or remove the cat and replace with straight pipes to produce a flame with our kit. Check with your local laws and regulations." So while I think it would be cool, unfortunately its going to wear down the motor I have put a fair few $$$$'s into and means my 1 year old $300 cat has to be removed and if a cop ever saw u with 1 AND no cat so the flames will work... the fines will outweigh the cost of owning it like 10 or 20/1..... or more.... Just some info for fellow sau'ers to think about Adam

want to know a little bit more info about it? heres the first website that comes up when you put car flame thrower kit into google: http://www.zorst.com/faq.html and it says: "How do the Flamethrowers work? The flame thrower kit safely lights up fuel coming out of the exhaust pipe at the tip, using our proprietary flamethrower control module the kit works in with your vehicle to get the right mix for a flame when you want it, the flamethrowers can be turned on and off by a switch that you can fit in a convenient place. When not in use the flamethrower kit will have absolutely no effect over the regular performance of your vehicle." but then.. if you google how do these things work, on this site: http://hackaday.com/2006/03/03/exhaust-flame-throwers/ it says: "...Here’s a hack that’s been around since the very start of the hot rod movement. Car exhaust flame throwers work by interrupting the spark to the engine. This dumps raw fuel into the exhaust system. The fuel is ignited by a coil and spark plug placed right before the exhaust tip. Doing this will shorten the life of your engine (and pedestrians). The raw fuel strips the oil off the cylinder walls and contaminates the oil causing more wear and tear. Also, this mod can’t be used on a fuel injected car. It would foul the O2 sensors and catalytic converter. Never the less, our fascination with electricity will live on." so need to know alot more info about the kit because a manufacturer says its fine for your car (their kit atleast) while 3rd parties are saying it can't work with fuel injected cars and is bad for the motor... so more info on the kit please! Adam

good price! and usmair, I know an external gate rear housing is around 400-500... so I would imagine an internal gate rear housing would be something similar.... which makes it an awsome bargain to get up and running as I paid 1850 for this including a .63 rear housing, so theres def 300-400 savings.. gl with the sale mate!

fwah! looks insane! makes my meister's look like toys, but mine are very easily fit comparing these to mine, these are definitely a bargain!

i know, but its true that those people make skyline drivers look like cocky idiots.. yet when the majority of sau'ers are responsible, no one notices... classic case of if you don't do anything wrong no one will notice, but if anyone is being d*ckhead, everyone notices... hence making us look like muppets...

I just want to know what the f*ck they were going there for? are they that loserish they have to go back to their old school to "show off" ppl like that make me think about selling my car, as they are seen as the "typical" skyline driver...

Cara, for the next body enhancement, how about some animal destroyer on the front so they will think twice before playing emu,i mean chicken, with you again ? man.. that was lame....

I think that if a new SAU'er signs up that is under 21 and registers their car on here as being N/A they should automatically be brought to this thread! gw, but I'm sure its not going to stop the silly threads entirely.

because of the lack of wing and poor choice in wheels, you cant tell you have put alot of effort into it.... or that it pushes out good numbers... it just looks like a typical half run down skyline... dont mind the rear bumper though ... 5/10.... gl with it im sure you can get it looking really tough

Do/check all these things make sure your air flow meter (which is a cylinder attached to the airbox and has mesh on both sides) is completely dry(let it sit in the sun for a bit?/hairdryer?), or that you haven't blown any dirt onto it's sensor as that would cause problems too... Check that the plug/wires to it aswell to make sure they havent come loose.. Check you havent gotten some water in some cracks/all the pipes are well connected and sealed. you said "i moved to the snorkal, airbox and filter" and then you started the car... did you have the airflow meter connected? if not, thats your issue as you car has no idea how much air it is sucking in... also, when you did the ecu reset, was everything back in place and are you sure you did it properly? (im not sure how to do it as I have an aftermarket ecu, but just making sure) gl with it. Adam

your probably right with not popping off...I have a similar hard pipe, but its a legit Apexi power intake one, crappy clamps can cause issues though...ie not sealing properly and air getting in behind the airflow meter causing air/fuel ratios to stuff up...

read the article... shes not dead... "She's got some fractures - a very lucky lady to be alive." Shes in a critical but stable condition in hospital

u need brake lines + i bought a 5 stud spare wheel for the boot... obviously as ur 4 stud one wont fit anymore... and yes... gtst rotors will fit on gtr hubs