WYTSKY

Hey mate, After the aerial. Is it in full working condition? if so how much?

Not all cheap turbos are bad, without even thinking Kandos and hypergears are proven performers without the price tag. as with most things of a "cheap" nature it can be one or a mix of things you have mentioned that cause premature failure. the failure can range from oh my turbos making a funny noise to why is there no boost, right up to i think a piston just shot through the side of my block. From what I have seen, the particularly bad ebay turbos are not balanced (or balanced at a low rpm to claim a low failure rate) - which is not a hard thing to do and is essential to ensure to the functionality and longevity of a turbo. you simply take it to a turbo shop and they attach it to a manifold in store and spin it right up to it's max rpm to ensure it spins freely and centered. if it is unbalanced they can cut small bits from the inducer or exducer to ensure it i within 0.00000 something of a gram off weight. all the more mid range to expensive turbos will have slight bits of metal shaved off, thats not a manufacturing fault. If it is unbalanced with a cheap material or a cheap bearing, at a high rpm the fins start rubbing against the housing and anything from some of that dust getting sucked into the motor to a single fin to the entire set of blades flying off at crazy speeds can happen extremely easily. Some other cheap exhaust housings leave large amounts of space between the exducer and the housing to mask this problem as well as other things and that causes positive boost to come on really late and gives you a useless powerband.

Yeh, pump is definite replacement, possibility about the slip but how to tell? I have visually inspected it running for about a minute and no sign of reduced speed or vibrations. ok, will keep in mind. Perhaps I am not describing the boost on highway correctly, I didn't elaborate as I thought it wasn't that relevant. Turbo is not whistling on cruise - 5th gear, 100kph, ~2800-2900rpms, 0psi, with the way that traffic is in the morning/arvo constant speed ups/slow downs, overtake a car and THEN instant 5-10psi. Same thing when slowing down to 80kph, need to accelerate back to 100, touch accelerator and instantly get a couple of psi. As you can imagine this happens alot and this is why I was saying that I believe it may be contributing to extra heat. thanks mate, I am going to try the coke bottle next weekend and as an intermediate option until I can get on a dyno just let it putt away for an hour or so. Atleast that way I can hopefully say right - there are no bubbles, now to look at base timing and cas, process of elimination. What are thoughts if I open the bleeder and instead of loosing all that coolant I put a line around the bleeder and let that funnel into the coke bottle attached to the radiator and thus it can continue to go around and remove air without loosing all coolant? Not being a cheap ass, happy to buy more coolant but I end up loosing more then I put in leaving the car going with bleeder open.

Cheers guys. Interesting about heater core, that went about a month before the water pump, I fixed that myself and bled the system and it was fine, i think thats what caused the water pump gasket to go, must have dried out a little. the sound sounds like it is coming from lower down around the water pump though, I did spray some wd on the joint just incase because it is brand new and might be abit stiff I still have the marks he made when he took off the cas and it has lined back up properly. If that was the case surely the car would drive differently though? I know low to mid 80's is ok, but its more that it was lower, why not anymore? I meant with another older turbo that wasent as responsive, so it wouldnt run as hot as it wasent constantly on boost. current one has always been the same, so I know that the boost will increase temps, Yeh - I think this might be the key, he admitted he spent as long as he could doing it, but said there may still be some air in it and to just remove the bleeder screw until it was a constant stream... i know thats the theory and I have removed the screw multiple times but you end up just about loosing all your coolant doing it, might need to attach a line to that and then let that trickle back into the overflow bottle so I keep it in the system.

Hey guys, About 6 months ago my water pump gasket started leaking. I ordered a brand new Nissan GTST pump, belt and gasket. Gave it to my mechanic as I was not brave enough to take the timing belt off and lack of time etc.... Anyway, he put it all back on but there have been a few things I have noticed and I am not sure if it is a result of things he's done or I just havent noticed it before: 1. As soon as I got the car back I noticed a slightly different note from the motor running, sounded a little more noisy. - He said thats due to the new water pump belt and it's a little tight so it might make that sound for a while, fair enough, admittedly it has reduced in noise, but not completely, not like it used to, I'm probably just pedantic about my car - nothing to worry about? 2. The car definitely does not run as cool, on the powerfc on cruising on the freeway even in melb's current cool weather, I am sitting on about 81-82, if I boost through a gear and then just roll after that temp instantly goes to about 85-86, when it was hot earlier this year just cruising on the freeway on a 35 degree day it got to about 95-96, never seen it that hot before. to consider though, with the responsiveness of the current turbo, when cruising in 5th on the freeway I am always on boost, and turbo is water cooled so I know that is contributing, but I remember when I had another turbo that was just oil cooled temps would never ever move past 78deg(I get that the turbo itself was hotter, but what about the motor?). I still have the factory clutch fan and shroud, I have never had the current radiator flushed, maybe an idea? 3. I think alot of these issues may still be caused by air bubbles, I have tried to remove the bleed screw mutliple times etc and have had a few odd bubbles come out. I have never noticed it before, but when I drive to work (32kms), then turn car off and sit there for a minute, you can start to hear bubbles of something bubbling away. It sounds like coming from around the back of the block - maybe through my turbo's braided water line - very hard to pin point, but there is definitely bubbles somewhere in there and they sound watery, ie they arent a glug, glug sound but more of a blip blip blip sound. I tried to record it but it's fairly faint and can't get it on an iphone. happens after a decent drive. Do I need to rebleed the system? Everything else seems fine about the car, oil is nice and dark, no milky bits, boosts well (not when completely heat soaked) and is running normally - the reason I am so concerned about cooling is because it's a GTS+T,so higher compression and it can suffer pretty badly from heatsoak so I would like to keep temps as cool as possible - 78 to max 80 all the time. thoughts? suggestions?

Wow dude, sucks to see your selling it. Has been great to see you mould this from an average NA to something extremely unique with power to match. I know from your early posts that you were extremely passionate about the car and looked after it well. Hope you find something else you can put your ideas into. Good luck with it.

the pics you have of your gate look identical to mine. I know exactly how you feel - when I first got the car tuned I thought it would be an absolute monster and you'd get that massive kick in the guts. It wasn't, it felt very progressive - very useable power, but not that holy sh*t feeling I was after. I was keen on response so went the .63 this is it here using the gate with a 15psi spring and a simple bleed valve ... then I went back with just a gizzmo ms-ibc and it made a massive difference. 3 grand full boost. in first it hits probably about 4,200-4,500 (so quick can't even watch it) second about 4... etc.... - comparing to yours you can see the .82 housing really making a difference in the top end where mine starts choking. But compare a kw figure... ie 140kws on yours takes to about 4100, vs about 3400 on mine, thats where the lower torque starts pushing you back in the seat. with 20-21psi on the above dyno I got 296kw with a little detonation so I asked to take it back to 18-19. It still isn't that lightswitch power but it is actually faster then others with those on/off turbo setups... more area under the curve is more power for tarmac. I know you have the bigger exhaust housing but it still looks a little lazy. I also noticed on your second post up of your boost that it looks a little wavy, that could be the result of an issue? I have also considered water meth, spoke to mafia as there is no e85 around this side of Melbourne yet. I would do it but at the moment the car is my daily and there are more important things going on, but when I want more power i'll be going straight to that.

your not going to get a perfect answer, either way someone is going to be put out. Imo, these are the best 2 options: 1. if you can reduce your reliance of traffic/public transport - ie a short tram ride/drive and then walk/push bike, that will be the best outcome. 2. or if one of you can completely eliminate traffic/public transport and the other has to drive that will be good too. I live 31kms from my work on St kilda road, its an hour by car in the morning and an hour & 10mins on the way back. by public transport its an hour and 15 each way + alot of sick dirty people crammed next to you. You have no choice but to get used to it.

great, thanks for the info. I think 20 seats will be suitable. Also based on the weather no point meeting at the car wash and is freezing so please head straight to Doncaster and park. I will be out the front of Village at 8:00pm to collect money to get the tickets. My number is 0419110110, please feel free to give me a buzz if there are any questions.

no worries. thanks for the updates guys, keep them coming. Just a reminder, these are the normal prepay before so bring cash ($10 a person) if you remember as we all have to prepay at the cinemas. Normally we all just wait out the front of the cinemas, all pool our cash and then I go up, give the cash and get back the tickets and hand out to everyone.

GUYS - Update. I have spoken to Village and organized 20 seats for Village Doncaster @ 8:40pm. We have the option to still do the drive ins but I have to let them know by 12pm tomorrow whether its @ Coburg or Doncaster. At least this way we wont get rained out. As of right now we are booked for Doncaster unless the weather looks like it will get better. I need to know from people now how many guests you want. I have 20 seats ( 2 lines of 10 )reserved. on the night if there are more thats fine, some may not sit with the group, but I will make sure you still get the discount. So please let me know ASAP. I am posting this on FB too. Adam

Am working on this right now, will hopefully have an answer soon.

Hey guys, Reminder - it is this Friday! I Have spoken to Village now. Have told them roughly 30 cars - about 15 on SAU ( not doubling from the people who have said they are coming on facebook) plus another 15 on facebook. Unfortunetly they don't want to offer food vouchers this time, they said it is only financially viable with an entire field of cars (200 minimum) we got that for Fast 5, but not for this one. It is $10 a person or $20 a carload, so if there are 2 in a car it's $20, 3=$20,4=$20 etc.... still alot cheaper then the regular $17-18 a person. Please let me know of any changes. if anyone has mates that want to come in their cars too, now is the time to tell me. I have posted this on facebook too. COMING =========================== john Eli + mates Colin Mohammad Juliette Longinus Wynn * 2 cars martin - maybe Leroy Pereson - maybe Jason - confirmed on facebook GTTR34 - maybe Nick - maybe Dennis - maybe Facebook - additional 15 people http://http://www.facebook.com/events/446961245321042/?notif_t=plan_user_joined Adam

Ha! I was in there last week and this weekend ( I had a small love tap 2 weeks ago on punt road) now that I am with Shannons they just asked where do you want to take it. said Micolour straight away. I'm guessing yours was the black one? I saw the bonnet and I said to michael I couldn't believe it had hail damage on it! He truely is a top bloke, always putting clients first. I dropped my car off there on Saturday for an assesment today -already been done and he is currently working on it, hopefully have it back on Wednesday night. Crazy good service. Good stuff mate, I'm sure i'll be as happy as you. When I get it back I was going to ask if I could have a checky peek at ur 31 Ash

Tial 44mm gate.genuine Screamer Melbourne, VIC, daily driver have put "heatshield" over it Yes it is great for boost control, mine is a straight line on the boost plot and it definetly helps with flow. Downside is - and this is a downside - for daily driving you have to be careful when you put ur foot down. When I overtake etc, I dont really go above 3-3.5k, dont want to look like a muppet. I believe part of the reason I havent had issues is my car looks relatively stock and I drive pretty reserved. If you think you will just keep gating and you know u cant control yourself you are just going to end up with headaches of removing it and fines. If I am completely honest, if I could be bothered I would pay for a custom setup where I can plumb it back in/ make it external relatively easily instead of always external.

Based on your location in your profile, the price you paid for the "work" and the workshop's actions I am going to have an educated guess you went to the place in Cheltenham? has a stop sign as the logo+ green behind it? If so, I can tell you they do sh*thouse work. Years ago ( 4+ ) I took my car there as I needed essentially the same thing as you have. I got the same BS you did AND they threw out my pad backing plates too and I didn't even know until I got in there myself, at the time I didn't know much about the car, know a fair bit more now. the car's brakes were abolutetly shocking, literally could hear me brake 2kms away. it was so bad I got pulled over by a cop telling me to fix it or a defect and showed them the reciept of the work saying I didn't do it. I took it back to them multiple times (at least 5+) for them to try to fix it. In the end, the solution was I had to buy new rotors as well ( slotted) and they only fixed the squeel by using copper lube on the locking bar that holds the pads in, essentially there was some movement under braking in there and it was like someone plucking a guitar string and that was vibrating - maybe because I was missing the backing plates. couple years later when I did the next pads myself, noticed I had no backing plates...

Guys, just a reminder, 12 days to go. anymore interest please let me know. Will be posting up the final detials (movie time, vouchers) very soon.

I believe the rule with 4wds is your meant to be in the back. I'm probably coming in the missus hatch, doing some work to the skyline atm, plus hatches with boot open or utes > coupes at drive ins.

good stuff guys. should be a nice sized group! Stilll got heaps of time if your interested, just let me know earlier rather then later There's also a couple of members that have said they are coming via facebook.

I think it will be a combination of both - a restriction as it only reads from 0-5volts based on the amount of air it can read sucking into the motor. now with a turbo your well and truely adding in more air then the meter can read (you will be in the +ve pressure range, those afms go on motors that go from -20 vacuum to a max of 0 +ve pressure), the motor is not going to think there is as much air in the chamber, therfore less fuel = lean. someone correct me if I am wrong. as well as communications with the ecu, if it's a turbo ecu and and it expects 370cc injectors instead of 270cc and a standard gtst afm, how is it going to cope with a gts afm? oh, just thought of another thing that is not a question to do, if you do all this you HAVE to do it - the clutch - I killed the stock gts one within a couple of days, I don't do burnouts in the car, just simply the massive increase in torque from the motor when the car hit boost compared to when it was na.

the mod from gympie and Zebs are on the money. depended on the temp of the night etc, but with a $20 boost controller an r33 turbo was on at 2,400-2,500, great response for the road. get an r33 turbo and most people find with a free flowing exhaust and a decent intercooler boost will probably go up by 1-2psi. otherwise get a good cheap boost controller, even though mine didn't have a gain setting I still felt it aided spool. I did some parts of the initial conversion, but I left it to the pros to do my injectors, t-off water lines and find where to tap an oil line - there is a small flat spot on the passenger side of the block, about halfway down and little past halfway horizontal closer to the firewall about the size of a 20-50c piece - thats where they did it . I think there was another bloke on here that teed off some othe oil line so no drilling. Also you have forgotten about afm. Brakes are a good thing to have yes, I started to notice I really needed them at about 180-200rwkw, gts ones would die within minutes. gtst ones have been great so far but if your just going for standard gtst boost for now they can wait. good luck.

Excellent guide mate. never done this as I have been too scared incase I stuff up the timing. Just to clarify - the tenisioner, when you put it back on you just simply thread the nut onto the bolt by hand, put the belt on and then use a hex key to slowly tighten it until there is a firm amount of preasure on the belt and the nut will tighten itself up? or what did I miss?

Great, more then welcome closer to the date I'll get some food vouchers to make it cheaper

different has already been done http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/374496-gerg-r31s-na-rb2630de/ Hope you don't mind Greg

Somewhere in the low to mid 90's range from memory. You can get a radio from them at no charge if you need It's MIB man, cool weapons, aliens and crap... get the night off?