WYTSKY

Yep, I go to Autobarn Bayswater, they have BCPR7ES, I wanted to try BCPR7E (the v groove) and those have to be ordered...

Cost less bolts in Ringwood http://www.costlessb...ingwood.com.au/ Or Moorabbin http://www.costlessbolts.com.au/ Eastern Turbo Chargers in Bayswater really good for exhaust studs/annoying sized turbo bolts http://www.easternturbo.com.au/ (not sure what area you are from) ... wait...says your a NSW member? I go to the Ringwood one, they always have every single bolt/nut type I need, in hi tensile or whatever other grade.

^ +1 thing isn't stock, probably a very healthy motor as well. this is from the comments of the clip: Amazing results with a nistuned Z32 computer modified to run the R33, this cheap alternative is conducted in house and retails for $1300 fitted and tuned, as the R33 computer is not a chippable board. the first run is standard setting with aftermarket exhaust 96.3 kw, then after a nistune chip and tune 121.5 kw! then a set of camshafts and a nice set ENVY Dyno vernier cam gears inlet and exhaust doing away with the variable valve timing showed amazing improvements @ 147 kw! thats almost the power of the turbo engine kids!! So they removed the variable valve timing that helps with mid range power (what you use for the street) to get that extra amazing few kws up top which wont feel like much. in the end, you will pay equal or more for that then for a standard turbo motor.

yep, still going good:) link to another N/A CAI thread

Nick, maybe a little something, if anything the throttle response feels a bit more crisp. all in all a good panel filter should do just as well with the factory airbox and snorkel, but you know, add a good metal intake pipe, pod, heatsheild and CAI (doing all this properly, not half assed) and it will definitely sound a bit meaner and may get bit more flow.

I would just get a longer pipe, one that comes down to behind the passenger headlight (where the airbox used to be) put the pod on the end of that, then gets some good cool air flowing to it, otherwise it is worse then stock. student + skyline... been there done that.... it can be hard...

perhaps exahust leak then? checking gaskets and joins along the way? Hows your spark plugs? service it regularly?

Why don't you post a video of your car so we can hear what it sounds like, not others post a video of theirs for you, as you have already described its not a clean sound like from other skylines. I am no exhaust expert but I would have definetly said its the stock rear muffler and 1-2 too many resonators.

Cheers guys, Price was not really the issue, was the question of what will be more suitable. I have looked on Kudos, there is also frsport but they are american so long time deliveries... but the thing that has put me off them is the postage... http://www.frsport.c...B26_p_9422.html I don't remember it ever being that bad from frsport previously, but $211 for 2-3 days or $140 for 2-5 days to my door is ridiculas, the part is only listed on there for $100, so I will by from somewhere in aus like kudos. Next thing is installing it - I do work on the car myself a fair bit, but I am not confident with removing the timing belt and lining everything up perfectly, so will take it to one of my trusted workshops, it is about 10 mins drive but based on the fact that I am losing > 1 litre a day without the motor running I don't think I want to turn it on again, thinking tow truck....

Thanks John. Searched abit more and have come across this. Standard looks like it will do just fine. Thanks. http://www.skylinesa..._1#entry4782752

ahh cool, car is 100% street, in future would like to occasionally get it on the track. good to know the difference, thanks. I was just wondering if the n1 pumps more water around or something along those lines to help stationary heat

Hey guys, opened the bonnet the other day when doing my 3000km oil change to see my coolant reservoir was bloody low. Decided to drop the coolant and put fresh in, not sure if it has been because of the hot weather of late or because of the coolant but water temps were a little hotter of late: 2-4 degrees... all went well, ran all the air out, job done. Open up my garage today to see a huge pool of coolant under my car.... got under there and nothing from around the turbo, checked everywhere etc/... Couldn't see anything from the water pump because it had the cover over it, anyway found this little pool drippinglower down from around under the water pump area, so I am quite sure it has gone.. questions - 1. Will an N1 water pump fit my rb25de block or just go the standard rb25 pump? 2. If an N1 pump will fit, based on my power, and the fact that with the slightly higher compression my motor can suffer badly from heat soak, is an n1 water pump worth it or is it not even noticeable? bloody annoying as I got my mechanic to do my timing belt (do most stuff myself but don't want to screw something like that up) 10,000kms ago as I was coming up to 200,000km, I am 400km off 200K and it has gone :@ Thanks

pretty sure he has an n/a.... so factor in alot more money to turbo the car or swap a turbo motor in... etc etc.... then you need to do as above....

assuming everything your saying is regarding a 32 gts4? because if so, yes you pull out a fuse or get a switch to change between 2wd/4wd. 4wd will never engage with the fuse out as the system is electronically controlled... if its about a 33 gts4 you have a bit of researching to do as they are hydraulically controlled and there is no fuse to pull out. some people drain the 4wd reservoir in the boot, but sometimes the 4wd may engage, pretty risky... the only way to properly ensure it is going to stay disengaged in a 33 is to climb under your car and undo the 4 bolts to the front drive shaft and pull it out.... I can get it down to about 15-20 mins now, used to be 45mins everytime i wanted to put it on a dyno..

This is what you posted: Then you said: ?

A. you have no details whatsoever B. you make a thread asking about these turbos -> http://www.skylinesa...tch-this-build/ C. In that thread you posted you bought them for $500, gone up $100 for what reason? I accept they are not what you were after and I'm always one to support GTS4 guys but this is the problem with posting the price you bought an item for on here, generally it will limit what you can sell them for again, not be the base value....

hey mate, assuming the rear housing is to suit T3, would you consider selling just the rear housing? if so, how much? Cheers

Found the pic from turbosmart aswell... in their instructions

I was trying for stealth too with my setup, thats why I avoided external gate for a while, but the boost control is awesome it sounds great. I have heard both good and bad stories about welding on the manifold, but as of yet I have never heard any issues with welding on the housing of the turbo - provided it is in the correct spot for flow, there is a diagram somewhere about it. I got mine heat sprayed aswell for stealth+ cooling ( for cooling it was a waste of time, cant remember all up but I think was about 400 for manifold and turbo housing and had to send it away for a week ) but I think the matt balck does help instead of a bright colour. Decided to make a aluminium heatshield aswell to cover the external gate - which 1. worked way better for hiding things 2. actually functioned as a great heat barrier. Maybe you could do something like that? Sure, a cop if they were keen could see something, but with the intake pipe ontop and other crap its very hard to tell and just looks like a heat shield... if they are that keen they will get you either way..... This was while I was finishing drilling the holes for it:

Since we are on the topic of speed/red light cameras and hoddle st... I see it happen alot where people get in the right lane to turn right, sitting on the sensor and then go f"k it, i'll go straight, get off the sensor and the camera obviously takes a shot as it thinks they are turning on a red... is what they are doing legal? or are you obliged to turn right?

Found Link - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/241168-dr-drift-32-4dr-another-taxi-wants-to-drift/page__p__4216525__fromsearch__1#entry4216525

It was his personal 4 door 32 he had, he got a copy td06-20g (this was about 1.5-2 years ago) to 260rwkw on it and then added a front facing plenum and showed me the dyno sheet of it making 300rwkw, I went in the car when it was at 260 and it felt bloody quick because of the light switch on/off feel. I was nearly going to get one of those turbos off him back in the day.

Dude... 2003 - 8 year dig

lol my old tute, glad to know people still using it. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/208224-making-a-professional-heatsheildpod-coverair-box-at-cost/ + http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/208470-make-your-own-neat-looking-cold-air-intakecai/ = A fun weekend for cheap, it works well.

decided I should do the right thing and go to my original plans. very sorry, a lil more notice next time and I'd be in! have fun tonight guys.