WYTSKY

hey bud, well, it doesn't matter, you can make your own hole... my car had no holes at all when I first got it because it was non-turbo... I then had to get one for the fmic piping to go through and I made another for this cold air intake.. I am also aware of the legalities of holes in engine bays... but most of us do it....1 advantage I would have said though, is that with the heatsheild being tinted, you can't see anything more then a pod in there Adam

exactly... why risk it? also.. I took my car when it was non turbo to the track... you still can go fast, hug corners etc, so make sure everything is nice and tight and don't keep anything on the car that could snap or weaken under pressure.... ie.. spacers!

Hey mate, I would not recommend the spacer route, I thought about it, but if your in an accident.... say at the track, and you call your insurance and they see your car had stud conversion spacers they will laugh at you... interms of safety I have heard various responses... although there aren't many (if any) cases of spacers snapping, I had a lengthy conversation with an experienced guy at a tyre company He was telling me all the pros and cons, and I was a little confused on what to do in the end, so I simply said to him: "if I was your son, or a relation to you, would you let me use spacers, regardless of the car" and he said no.. Besides, why go for s13 brakes when you could go for gtsts? do the 5 stud mate! Regards, Adam

soz bud.. the snorkel and box are not really for sale/ rent / etc anymore.. admins didn't like it ... Adam

Sorry bud,I don't know if I made my response clear.... it would not stuff your hicas in the rear if the person who is doing it knows about hicas.... the other alternative is to get rid of the hicas all together and have a hicas lock bar so its not like going around corners in ur average 5 star shaped computer wheeli chair... I must get onto that too oh and a final thing... i am not 100% sure that the gtst brakes would fit onto the n/a gts4 arms... you would need to double check that...othernwise you cannot upgrade your brake system at all... Adam

Thanks for the kind words, the thing that surprised me the most was how little time it took to make. I think the templates probably took longer!

still loud as ever ... I assume you mean the blow-off and turbo spool yeh? basiclly it still sounds identical Adam

woops... my bad, thought I already had... check original post at the bottem... u can barely see it

Haha... I already have! check like 5 tutorials below

sorry bud, but you can buy this BRAND NEW on staticICE for $181.50 in SYD... check this link. http://www.staticice.com.au/cgi-bin/search...Geforce+8600gts Adam

HAHA yeh, so cheap and effective

Hey guys, I saw skykc's cai pod thread and liked his ideas, so gave it a crack myself. I believe it is has been very useful and my pod has been keept at a maximum of marginal warm instead of boiling hot, even without a heatsheild, which I am yet to make. I have also noticed that the car is alot more responsive now regardless of the weather. The whole amount of the hardware you need only costs around $30 if you go to the right places. I used: $8- 90 degree intake pipe from a vn commodore in Pick Pay n Go $4- flexible black funnel from Bunnings $12- 6 pack hole saw bits up to 100mm from Bunnings (were meant for wood but they were so cheap and I only wanted to use them once) $3- Rubber edge to cover up the bare hole from Clark Rubber-"Cool Clarky" if you please All up = $27 The whole process only took me about an hour and you only need very basic tools. Tools required: Hack saw Drill Wire cutters/Tin snips Maybe a flathead or phillips head to undo a few plastic screws on the underbody The Steps: 1. Once you have found a Vn Commodore intake pipe, you will notice one side is longer then the other. I ended up cutting it down to about the same, so I could fit the funnel on it and just fit it all into the front bar. 2. Once the pipe can fit in under the front bar (keep testing to find the right size) you need to cut the funnel down to attach it onto the pipe. The funnel is used to attract more air in the direction of the pipe to flow straight to the pod. It probably isn't 100% neccesary, but for $4 who cares? 3. Use the hack saw again, cutting the funnel about halfway through, possibly with a little bias either way. The next step you want to do is measure how much you need to flare the inside of the funnel so it fits snuggly over the pipe. At the moment, the smallest part of the funnel should be able to fit inside the pipe, fit it in and see how much you need to flare the funnel.(It should be about a centimeter) 4. To flare the funnel you will probably need to make about 10 tabs with the hack saw around the smallest end of the funnel, each about 1cm deep. Once the tabs are made, grab a lighter and make the tabs just a tad warm which will make it a little easier to bend the flares with your fingers. The final result should make the small end look like a flower, which will then allow for the pipe to fit in. To hold the pipe and the funnel together, use an adjustable hose clamp to tighten down the open flares over the pipe. At this point your piping is now complete, it is optional if you want to use some fly wire to stop any bugs/leaves going up the pipe to your pod, I was not to worried about this because my pod is already a filter so I don't think it matters. You now need to make the hole in your engine bay. 5. Get your pack of hole saw bits, I used a 90mm size which fit very snug. Adjust where you want to place your hole, I decided to make it right in the middle under the pod. Attach the hole saw to your drill and start off very slowly. (From what other people had said I was weary of using hole saw bits that were made for wood, but they were a quater of the price of metal ones and I only planned to use them once.) After you have made the rough outline of where you want your hole start pushing down a little harder, then just keep holding it there, that way the teeth on the hole saw bit wont go blunt as quickly. I did it this way and it took me about 2 minutes before I could simply peal off the perfect circle like a metal can lid, plus I still have plenty use out of the hole saw! 6. Once your hole is made you need to put the rubber edge on, and if you have it handy, spray some fish oil to stop rust(if you don't, don't stress, the rubber edge stays on nice and tight!) To get rubber the right length slowly cut it down in educated guesses, because it slips in deeper to the edge then you think and you end up needing more or have a part where the circle is not complete. I strongly recommend you use this rubber edging because it makes the hole look a lot more professional and hides any imperfections you may have made making the hole. ( in the pics the circle looks a little lop sided because the rubber had not been put on properly yet) 7. The final step to do is adjust the angle of the pipe a little, just so the funnel is pointed right in the center of the hole of the front bar and try to point the 90 degree pipe slightly down so dirt and water can't fly up as easily. I simply used a few hidden cable ties and found a few holes off which to angle them by. Hope you all enjoyed and also check out my heatsheild tutorial!

Thanks for the advise mate, as I mentioned, people can make the setup themselves, I have posted up some extensive tutorials (one I think is pending being posted) so you are welcome to give it a shot. However, if people want it done as it looks in the picture, we simply are offering the service, but it has to be worth our while. If people were prepared to get the materials themselves and get us to help i'm sure we could work something out. Regards, Adam P.s thanks for the kind words.

bump!

Hey guys, This is my Heatsheild tutorial as promised. It works really well in conjuction with the cai I made a few days ago, there apears to be alot more top end torque, espesically on the freeway, etc. I feel better knowing that my car is only getting fresh outside air instead of sucking up hot engine bay air, plus this is one of the few air boxes that is actually strong! I used: $40- Tinted perspex from Bunnings $0- Cardboard for the template from Bunnings $10- Rubber edge to go around the entire heatsheild itself from Clark Rubber So all up it cost = $50 The whole process only took me about 3 hours to measure up everything and make sure the template was accurate. Tools required: Jigsaw Drill Wire cutters/Tin snips Hole saw Heat gun The Steps: 1. First off, you need to make a template out of cardboard for the perspex so you know the shape of the car to minimise the amount of gaps that the sheild has. If you can't seem to get it just right don't be affraid to cut bits off, adjust them how you want and then stick them back on, this helps in creating a custom edge that will suit your engine bay better. Don't forget to make a top for the cover, if you want it. 2. Once you have your cardboard template for the body, you then need to make a stencil of it onto the perspex so you know where to cut with the jigsaw. Don't forget you will also need a hole in the heatshield for your afm and piping to fit through. 3. After you have cut out the persex, the heatsheild then needs to be bent in a 90 degree angle. To do this you need to slowly melt the perspex with the heat gun. I found a good way to make a clean bend is to cover all of the perspex with something heat resistant, except a small line where you want the bend. Slowly sweep across back and forward until you can feel the perspex is weak, then remove one side of the heat cover and slowly bend the perspex up to the other side. You might be thinking you need to sand it at this point, if you got the rubber edging, you don't need to which is really handy. 4. You will also need to drill a hole for the piping to fit through, a cheap hole saw will help greatly doing this. 5. Once you are happy with the shape and design of the sheild, you can then peel off the protective plastic so it is nice and shiny and unscratched. You then need to put the rubber edge around the sheild so it looks neat. 6. Go and try to fit it, make sure it is nice and tight or screws in somewhere with a bracket, with minimal gaps! Hope you enjoyed!

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couldn't you make some? or get some leds? or t10 bulbs if they are the same as the r33? is it the small cover overthem that is smashed or the globes or both? if ur in Melb Se suburbs pm me and I'll see if I can give you a hand.feel bad for wot those bastards did! I would be absolutely furious! Adam

bumpski

hey mate, interested in the turbo, what location you in?

nar, I am not really wanting to make a business out of this, not yet at least, more so just to help others out. ur right in the sense that I should mention that interstate is probably not really an option. Adam

Bump again

BUMP

Well, estentially, yes. I think the reason I went with the whole arms on the front was just because it was abit cheaper or the same price to change the whole arm as oppose to just the studs, also because it was a stroke of luck that they happend to have a 33 gtr front half cut at the time...

oh ok, no worries ... just thought it may have something to do with it?

Appreciate the help guys. You know, I gave the car a bit of a flog today, only for a couple of minutes, now I don't know if I have started to become used to the slight lack of power or if the power has gotten back up to what it was somehow. you know that sensor that plugs into the cat? wot does that do? does it tell the car how much approprate flow it should have? I don't know, it just seemed to have a good strong burble session down this hill, then after that the power didn't seem to be as laggy and it feels abit more torquier from then on. is this possible? the other thing I am curious about. these cats flow at 570cfm or some unit of measurement. how much flow does a straight 3" pipe provide? Adam