WYTSKY

hmmm... well theres a funky solution! how do you open the boot without burning your arm and getting a face full of black smoke?!

hmm, it is a possibility that the tune could do with a little clean up, but as I said before, when the cat was normal the tune was roughly the same as it was when the cat was gutted. and there was no yellow when the cat was normal. So I believe I am having yellow build up only due to the cat, not the tune being so rich. I remeber when my tune was rich, I never had any yellow, just lots of little bits of black dust sitting on the back of my car

hey guys, I got a thread going about going from a gutted cat to a highflow... I really notice a loss of power going from basiclly a straight pipe to an xforce highflow. Then again, I also noticed a big increase in power from when the cat was normal to gutted. if you don't have a white car then gutting ur current cat is best for performance. If you do, you will start to notice a yellow tinge to ur rear bar because the cat is not filtering the carbon monoxide.(you have to degs or buff it off each week) bit of a pain really.

but before, when my stock cat was normal I never had a problem, as soon as it was gutted I started noticing the yellow. does a highflow not do as gooder job filtering the carbon monoxide as a normal cat?

lol, ofcourse I do I don't know what colour car you have, but my white one collects enough in a week/5 days to cover 3/4 of the rear bar. I will try the degreaser though just gotta wait till my thumb heals to put the stock cat back on and go down to the car wash! Subzeror33: I truely hope not, cuz then I got this cat for nuthing!

mmm... I thought as much, still was worth the question..... so its either a degreeze/buff each week for the past 4 months with lots of flow and more power or nice clean back with less flow and a fair bit less power... OR possibly drill a few extra holes into the new cat for hopefully better flow without coughing out any carbon monoxide....(yellow tinge) GRR... the choices...

ohh... check silly me, but I thought that degs was bad on paint you want to keep looking smick? If one could extend their exhaust pipe slightly further then their rear bar would that help the problem?

lol, sorry mate, spraying where exactly? cuz if its inside the cat I already lost half my thumb today take it off and on, so I don't want that happening every week!

hmm.... drilling holes... its just that I don't want that sh*tty yellow tinge to reapear... I mean, maybe its in my head... one of these things flows at about 520 or something like that I read..I also remeber reading somewhere the racing spec ones flow at about 720ish? so would a straight pipe flow at a simple 1000?? Say I was to put the gutted cat back on, or drill holes in the current one, is there anything I can do to stop that yellow tinge? I heard something like vaso or similar... but you don't really want to be cruising with that stuff on ur car.... any spray protectant? Thanks, Adam

Hey guys, so I fixed the problem of the flanges not connecting well resulting in a small leak. Next thing is I have taken the car for a drive and noticed it is not as responsive/torquey as what it was with the stock cat gutted (simply it was a straight through pipe) The only reason I got an Xforce highflow was because I was sick of constantly buffering the back of my car to get rid of the yellow residue of carbon monoxide that the cat would normally filter... but I did not want an extra restriction. My current system is a 3' Xforce dump/front pipe, 3' Xforce highflow cat, 3' momocourse catback exhaust with a 5' tip I know its probably almost impossible, but do you guys have any ideas how to make it as flowing as it was last time/even better? Thanks for the help, Adam

I will go out and get a tube of that stuff ( sounds like it could come in handy) but I just chucked on the old and the new gaskets together and it now appears to be fine I may still put some stuff on it just to be safe. Thanks for the help guys

Thanks guys, appreciate the help. Can I drive the car around for the day as it is? is it possible for me to put two gaskets on? ie, the old + new one? or is that a bad idea? because by the looks of the old 1, with that combined with the new 1 it should be a good fit.

hey guys, bought a brand new xforce highflow cat off Ryan1600 and put it on the car tonight. With the new cat on, even with the gaskets, in the middle of the ovals on either side that join to the next part of the exhaust ( the part furthest away from the bolts) I can put my hand under there and feel some of the warm exhaust gases blowing out in the crack. Just to make it clear... so if the top and bottem of this oval are where the bolts are, the part that I can feel gases is ... ---> () <--- Is this acceptable or does it have to be completly sealed? and if so, wot is the best way? And I tightened the bolts up hard enough to squish the bit of the gasket around them, but not in the middle. 1 other thing, my old gaskets appeared to be larger then the ones that came with the xforce... should those maybe go back on? appreciate the help Adam

bumpo

Lol, dw mate, im noob too.... just played around with these things a lil and done some research I pretty much did the front myself, but I have an exam in 3 days and i lost time, so I ended up putting it all back together ( well enough to drive a km) and took it to the tuners and spent the extra $150 getting them to do the front aswell... wasent that much in the end.... Car is running great atm, no probs at all.. looks sweet... rims soon enough, after I get a new turbo... onto ur q's... 1.If u were to buy arms they would have to be off a gtr, or a gts4 converted to a 5 stud, possibly stega?not 100% sure but I thought some of them are AWD aswell... you could buy mine that are now off the car and for sale and get some gtst front hubs and convert them easily while off the car.(hint hint ) 2. I paid a fair coin for the 33 gtr arms... can't remeber exactly.. but I think in the region of $500.. but mine were mint, barely any rust etc.. don't know how much you could find them for, very hard to find in the first instance! 3. you don't need the 33 gtr rotors,calipers and hubs for the front, I used all 33 gtst gear and was perfect. (I picked up all the rotors for 50 bux and full set of calipers with some pads on them for $200) 4. I was worried about the brake cylinder/booster problem as well... was absolutely fine on my car.. I don't know what the fuss is all about.. it is exactly the same... 5. for the back.. I paid 250 for the hubs and I already mentioned the rotors and calipers. 6. nothing has happend to the handbrake, what are you worried about? hope this helps. Adam

hey guys, I am trying to clean up my comp room beceause it is meant to be a comp room.... not a garage! I have alot of parts for sale that I have taken off my car due to upgrades/mods over the past year and a half and have keept for the sake of it. My car was a non turbo R33 GTS4 S1 Please note I do not know all the correct names of the parts, nor if the prices are accurate, so please ask me if your interested in something. I also appologise that I am not 100% sure of what parts can fit what... eg.. somethings fitting Silvia's etc.. Also, most of the items are either bulky, fragile, or too heavy to post, sorry. But if there is something small your after I'd be happy to help Please also note, I have for rent a standard turbo airbox, plus a modified non turbo one that is suitable for non turbos that have been converted to turbo. They come with a standard snorkel for SMIC or a custom one for front mounts. Each one with a snorkel is $40 for the week. To find out more about it, please click here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ai...nt-t205433.html Item: Complete right and left front steering arms Age: 14 Condition: great! Price: $250 for the pair To Fit: (What car) Skylines..GTRs as well Location: Melbourne, SE suburbs Contact: 0419110110 Comments: I recently had a 5 stud conversion done to my car, so I have all the parts from it. If you want the whole front or front/rear setup ..arms, calipers, rotors, we can work something out! These arms would also work with GTRs because they came off my car with the front drive train gear so they support AWD and I switched these with r33 gtr arms. Also comes with the rotor cover plates. If you know what you are doing you could simply strip these down to the hubs, change them over to 5 stud and sell them at double the price because they would practially be GTR arms. Item: Rear non turbo hubs Age: 14 Condition: great! Price: $120 for the pair To Fit: (What car) Skylines Location: Melbourne, SE suburbs Contact: 0419110110 Comments: Only have the rear hubs as oppose to whole arm, not needed because of the 5 stud conversion Item: Full set of non turbo calipers spray painted dark blue Age: 14 Condition: great! pleanty of pad left Price: $180 for the full set To Fit: (What car) Skylines Location: Melbourne, SE suburbs Contact: 0419110110 Comments: These are sprayed in a dark blue, a little dirty in the pictures but they clean up nice Item: Full set of Nissan Skyline rims for four stud Age: 14 Condition: great! Price: $250 for all four + 2 free tyres To Fit: (What car) Skylines Location: Melbourne, SE suburbs Contact: 0419110110 Comments: These are useless to me now because of the 5 stud conversion. I have never seen another skyline with these on. Two are only two weeks old and the others are just below RWC standards. They also come free with two spare tyres that are just on the RWC line which were originally on these wheels. I can give them a wash a degrease if interested. Item: Four stud space saver wheel Age: 14 Condition: great! Price: $30 To Fit: (What car) Skylines Location: Melbourne, SE suburbs Contact: 0419110110 Comments: This obveously isn't it, but mine is identical, its just in my boot under my sub, so need to remove it. Never been used. Item: Full set of non turbo rotors Age: 14 Condition: very good! Price: $80 To Fit: (What car) Skylines Location: Melbourne, SE suburbs Contact: 0419110110 Comments: These have only ever been machined once in their whole life, about 6 months ago. they have only got some surface rust because they havent been used in a few weeks, its so easy to take off you can remove it with your nail. Item: R33 S1 spoiler Age: 14 Condition: absolutely mint! all brake lights working! Price: $50 To Fit: (What car) Skylines Location: Melbourne, SE suburbs Contact: 0419110110 Comments: I now have a S2 spoiler, but when I took this one off all the leds in the brake light were working, you can see it in my avatar pic. It has one tiny scratch on it (see pics) most people may not care but I am a padantic prick! This is still in original Nissan White and ready to go straight onto a car Item: Standard R33 non turbo dump pipe Age: 14 Condition: good! Price: $40 To Fit: (What car) Skylines Location: Melbourne, SE suburbs Contact: 0419110110 Comments: It has a small crack in the shield but in perfect working order, I have no need for it now beacue the car is turboed. Comes with a free dirty towel! Item: Standard R33 non turbo manifold Age: 14 Condition: great! Price: $70 To Fit: (What car) Skylines Location: Melbourne, SE suburbs Contact: 0419110110 Comments: Really clean for its age, great paper weight or replacement manifold! you choose, comes with a free dirty towel! Item: Standard R33 non turbo heat sheild Age: 14 Condition: great! Price: $20 To Fit: (What car) Skylines Location: Melbourne, SE suburbs Contact: 0419110110 Comments: Covers the manifold and front/dump pipes, mabye could be used somehow to hide a turbo aswell? Sorry.. no free dirty towel..... well maybe, if your a good bloke Item: Standard R33 non turbo Airbox piping Age: 14 Condition: great! Price: $40 To Fit: (What car) Skylines Location: Melbourne, SE suburbs Contact: 0419110110 Comments: not sure the exact name of it but it connected from the standard airbox into the air intake... has a K&N sticker on it...the free one you can get off the net that takes six weeks to wait for Item: Random screws, bits and pieces from the 5 stud conversion Age: 14 Condition: great! Price: Couple bucks each To Fit: (What car) Skylines Location: Melbourne, SE suburbs Contact: 0419110110 Comments: Can't say I have a clue where half the stuff comes from or goes to, but there are things like a full set of turbo brake lines, the screws that hold the calipers on + lots more Here's a few summary pictures of everything I believe I have posted for sale, please tell me if I am missing anything! Regards, Adam

Hey guys, heres some stuff to help clear your defects! Item: Standard R33 turbo airbox Age: 14 Condition: great! Price: $40 for the week with a standard snorkel for SMIC or a custom one for FMIC To Fit: (What car) r33 Skylines Location: Melbourne, SE Contact: 0419110110 Comments:I bought this because I thought it would fit because my car was originally a non turbo converted,turns out it didn't so now I have a spare to rent Item: Standard R33 non turbo airbox modified to suit cars that have been converted Age: 14 Condition: good! Price: $40 for the week with a standard snorkel for SMIC or a custom one for FMIC To Fit: (What car) r33 Skylines Location: Melbourne, SE Contact: 0419110110 Comments: Was the original one that came with the car that I had to modify to fit the turbo setup I did use the one that was modified for a FMIC to get a RWC and it was fine Regards, Adam

These are not multifit.... it is easy to tell if they will fit four stud or not.... if there are 8 holes.... 8/2 = 4 stud... if there are 10 holes.... 10/2 = 5 stud... these have 10 holes .... easily solved... (P.S I had to work this out the hard way too) Adam

hey, check out the top of this topic, I have updated it accordingly to my crappy circumstances atm.... :)

Thanks for the advice guys, I will open it up and have a look tonight. 1 thing though, I thought that if there was to be any oil in that pipe, that my car would be constantly coughing out alot of smoke? not just the odd one or two puffs per drive... also thought I should mention it has been absolutely fine over the past 12-24 hrs during driving... so could this be an intermitant problem do to a loss of oil? which I am yet to discover why I am loosing oil in the first place...? Thanks, Adam

hey guys, I gave it a good rev before in my garage so I could see if anything was coming out, didn't appear so. I don't know what I do differently when I drive it to make it occasionally smoke. I have a feeling it may be the turbo, I hope it is... but is there anything else it could be? Why have I lost so much oil??? Thanks

Hey guys, I thought I should update this topic because as it states, things have gone a lil more poorly. the original text is down the bottem of this. to sum up the past few days, I started noticing a small amount of white smoke cumming from my exhaust, only very breifly when I stopped at the lights, now after the last events that have taken place, there is alot more unfortunetly. I was recommended to take off the intake pipe to the turbo and check for oil, well I did that today, I unbolted the lowest part and most common place I would have thought to find oil... down in the bottem right hand corner where the fmic meets the lowest part of the intake pipe(pics up soon). I found a small amount, just a lil residue and small patches, cleaned it up, put it all back together, made sure everything was good and tight, but not tooo over tight. drove my car around for a couple of hours, all of a sudden bang, one of my intercooler pipes pops off, I am on the side of the road, fixed it up extrA tight. drove off. drove 30 mins home on freeway, taking it easy. came to the start of my 2km street, wanted to see if the pipes would hold, revved to bout 5000 and the pipes pop off again in a different spot,pushed it home, fixed and tightened it all up... turned it on, found there is now alot more smoke cuming out the rear and I think there is some blue smoke... so I am hoping so far this all sounds like the turbo is my prob? not my engine? if so, do i need to do the seals? is that costly on a stock turbo? is it better to replace as oppose to fix... please help! wots the extra smoke and bit of a bluee tinge mean? thanks, Adam P.S I did try looking around the forums, couldn't find too much. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- PREVIOUSLY.... "Gday guys, I turboed my car about 9 months ago, car has never missed a beat before or after the conversion and is now running about 200awkw (r33 gts4). She still is running perfect, but this week I have started to notice that on occasion (maybe every 5th set of lights) that there is a small amount of white smoke coming from the exhaust when I stop at the lights, it only lasts for about 2 seconds and then disapears, but it smells and is enough for me to notice. (I don't fang it before I stop at the lights either, just normal 3,000 - 3,500rpm changes). I changed the oil and filter about 4,000 kms ago and is coming up for another one, but the oil has gone from perfect down to low. I hope it is just the turbo, because it is just a stock one. The other thing to note is that I have recently gutted the cat a couple of weeks ago to get a bit more flow until I recieve my highflow soon. please help! Any ideas/suggestions are much appreciated. I have looked around the forums but couldn't find anything too similar. Regards, Adam"

hey bud, before an admin yells at you, you better chuck the price you are after for the g/box or they will close your thread. cheers, Adam

hey mate, name's Adam I have an r33 gts4-t s1.... in the next few days mine is going to be converted to 5 stud... (i converted mine to turbo about 8 months ago) you WILL need r33 gtr parts for the front, othernwise the awd system wont work... I have a suggestion for you.... why not do what I am doing and buy the entire front gtr arms? I know they are hard to find... but its a sh*tload easier... because I have already bought some gtst calipers and rotors and have now fitted them onto the arms.. and now I only need to undo about 3 massive bolts and 3 small ones on the car, pull off the current entire arm with old rotors, calipers, etc still attached.lubricate the appropriate areas, bleed the brakes, bolt everything up and hey presto.. I have 5 studs at the front... interms of the rear.. unless you already have a hicas lock bar installed or know what you are doing, I would not advise to do it, because I am told that if you take off everything in the rear, right down to hubs( to change them over obveously) the hicas steering stuffs up and you will end up crab walking. thats why I am paying someone else to do the rear ( which is only $250 labour) also.. don't bother re drilling your current stuff to fit, it will probably cost more and alot more effort to do then just spending 200-300 buying someone else's rotors and callipers. i looked around on this website and I bought a full set of turbo callipers for roughly $120- $150 ? and 50 bux for a full set of rotors that have plenty meat left on them... so think about a few other options. Regards, Adam

hey bud, check ur pm's. as I said yesturday, I will take it if a s2 airbox fits a s1... pm me back Adam