WYTSKY

These are now SOLD PENDING PAYMENT

hey guys, due to the number of questions I am getting about the rotors, the diameter of them is 256mm. The actual amount of disk a caliper could possibly grab is roughly 40 - 44mm and the front rotors are 20 mm thick and the rears are 10 mm thick. please feel free to keep asking more q's I also checked, postage is roughly around the $20 mark around Australia... give or take.... Adam

hey guys, unfortunetly I cannot see the part numbers on the front ones The rear rotor's part numbers are RDA7524S and the fronts look identical except obveously with the vented part in the middle. I hope this helps. Adam

hey guys, I can get the part numbers for you later tonight I'm not sure which model 180 they are meant to fit.... you welcome to try them on if you want... Adam

Item: Set of RDA Slotted Rotors Age: Brand Spankers Condition: Perfect! Price: $450 ono - normally costs $550 from SAU To Fit: (What car) Any 4 stud car with 4 * 114.3 studs off the top of my head: n/a skylines, r31, 180sx, s13 Location: Melbourne, SE Contact: Adam - 0419 110 110 Comments: Hey guys, Bought these for my car last week, unfortunetly, I wanted these to fit with a set of turbo brakes I bought for the car but they wont fit... so now doing a 5 stud conversion so these are useless and I need money! Happy to do pickup or post at buyers expense... ( I don't know how to post heavy items so I welcome the challenge ) I can also drop off depending on the area... happy to do pretty much anywhere from CBD to anywhere east or south. Feel free to contact me. Glorious Pics: carpet could do with a steam clean hey?....blasted dog

happy to help mate, good to know that the local supercheap stores also cater for us if neccessary. also... while ur at it check ur pads if they need doing to....from memory they can't be any thinner then 8mm-9mm I believe. I can't remember what brands are good but don't be suckered into the first ones you see that say they are great for stopping etc etc... i've found ive gotten alot of brake dust and screeches with those types.... do a little research on them... can't hurt Cheers, Adam

lol, funny mate... they look as smooth as a baby's bumb... no way to really be able to see from a pic.. you could take them to almost any automotive mechanic/tuner and they will know the places to take them to be machined.... if you want a rough idea of how much for some rotors have a look at this group buy... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rd...-2-t158914.html I actually spoke to rsd7 for a set of slotted non turbo rotors and he quoted me "7691S $280 front pairs, 7692S $275 rear pairs, all delivered"... so looking at about $555 delivered hope this helps... btw... gettting the rotors machined is cheap as chips... Adam

Gday mate, I had the same prob, pretty much sounds like your rotors need to be machined, if there is enough meat left on them, this normally happens after a while under heavy braking, not due to inadequate brakes or rotors, this is very cheap to fix up btw... I am in the process of updating my brakes and rotors. I bought some turbo brakes for a couple of hundred I think...like 200 ... I need some dba slotted rotors ..couple hundred and some pads...80? 100? 150?, its not too expensive all over. it is a good upgrade to do, but especially because I have converted the car to turbo and am still on stock n/a brakes. hope this helps a little. Adam

lol you should though dude... another gts4 turbo conversion! cummmonn....

unarmed_skyline : Nar, no compression, your right though, I should, but so far absolutely nothing wrong... and good on ya for helping him, my labour was a lil more pricey because they had never seen an underbody like mine... to sum it up they said half of it was like a gtr and half like a gts... every dump pipe I have added on so far...(the stock turbo one at first.. then the xforce.) have had to have been cut then welded back together to fit my underbody god knows why... but that caused a few probs when they were drilling for an oil line for the turbo and other crap.. I took it to racingline motorsport in cheltenham... cheap and yeh.. they are good. In regards to using a stock ecu... I would advise... you know why?? when I just had mine as a standard turbo for a little while, I got over 500kms a tank! (but I don't fang it at every set of lights) Also... can I say, at the end of it... when your baby is still urs and you dont have someone elses engine in it or other crap... its a good feeling so enjoy! As for me... these guys believe that if they can tune it right.. with a few added mods I can add on an after market turbo and have around 250 awkw... I'm sceptical, but its held itself really well so far, so who knows! Adam

Hey J3TR33, Name's Adam... about 6 months ago I had the same dilemma you are having/ just had about turbos... Now although I had the same options as you, mine were even harder to choose, because I originally had a r33 gts4 n/a s1...which I'm not sure if you know... not really easy to find another gts4 r33, so I had a problem. I decided to turbo my current engine, I bought all my parts off one guy.... $600 for every single thing to make my car turbo in great cond, except for ecu, which i picked up for $70, and intercooler, similar to urs. for $600 I got: Intake arm with stock bov, turbo, manifold, injectors and rail, dump pipe + I may have forgoten somthing... After all the install my car was at about 160rwkw... (did not have an awkw dyno) and it was fine, but I wanted more power. I now have added ontop of all that a power fc, boost controller ( at 12 PSI) , Exedy cushion button clutch, xforce dump and cat + rest of the exhaust sys and STILL on all STOCK internals and she runs absolutely smooth as anything and is now over 200awkw and never missed a beat. if your car is as strong as you say it is, it should be fine. my standard non turbo fuel pump still gives plenty and the only thing I had to change that didn't last was the clutch......four hours after I got the car back! haha! Overall I am really glad I got it done and love my non turbo badges fooling people I can give a few recommendations on where to take your car to get the conversion done.... im in melb too.. SE suburbs. hope this helps you a bit mate. Adam

Thanks for the help, but I have a few questions... what does TPS stand for and what does it do? when you said "goes out of whack at runtime then it will give up the ghost. " you did mean while driving yeh? because it doesn't come on straight away when I turn on the car.. could take an hour.. a day... one thing that is strange though... whenever the abs system and 4wd system fail I can tell without even looking at the warning lights in the dash cluster because I feel it in the brake, feels like a lil lump for a second... finally, if I got out a multimeter and checked to see voltage... what color would the wire be and Im assuming I would have to check when the warning lights come on? OH.. one final thing... it may be related, but i'm not sure, I have one of those atessa controller things where you can set how much distribution of power to front or rear... I have never touched it in the past few weeks... (been too bloody dry to need it) ... could this have something to do with it? Thanks again for the help, Adam

Oops.. forgot to say an r33 s1... and if it makes a difference I recently turboed the car as well.. Adam

Hey guys, I have a question regarding the atessa 4WD computer, A cuple of weeks ago an old lady went up the back of me, didn't do much damage to me, just a broken rear bumper... little bits... then about a week later I was just driving normally when my abs and 4WD light came on, don't know why, feel as though it was related to the crash.... now, every 2 days or less I will be doing nothing out of the ordinary and the warning lights will just come on... I pull over, wait for 5 minutes, turn on the car again and it seems to be fine for a little while. My tuners believe it has something to do with the computer, not the reservoir in the boot, because I checked it and it is appears fine, so I am looking for a new computer...(IF YOU GUYS HAVE ANY OTHER EXPERIENCES WITH THIS PLEASE POST) however, it is extremely hard to find a gts4 atessa computer, instead a GTR's one is easier to find, but I know they have their differences, for eg. the GTR has an atessa pro system running and a gts4 has just got an atessa... Will it make a difference if I used a GTR one? Thanks for your time. Adam

"probably because u drive it around like a ricer" What exactly defines a "ricer's" driving habits? All I could say from my experiences of driving on the road with asians is that some are the worst drivers in the world, HOWEVER, ofcourse there are a substantial amount of drivers who are exceptional behind a wheel, so how can you define a certain type of driving? Not having a go, just want an explanation of a "ricer's driving habits" if you have one. Adam

Howdy mate, I have the exact same car as you and I can tell my HIDs are amazing... they have made such a diff at night... especially driving on the Monash freeway.... so much brighter and clearer... I must warn you though... with HIDs... no matter how low I point them I get people flashing me atleast 2 -5 times a night and some people like to chase ... which can be a little scary at first... ( but now its more like catch me if you can ) Now to fix your prob.. I hope you have checked around this site for how to adjust your headlights.. cuz I had to learn how to make mine lower and then more bias to the left... You are aware there should be two sets of those nuts somewhere? one for up and down.. one for left and right? Mayb you are adjusting the wrong ones? If your near the chaddy area be happy to show you what a white set look like on a skyline...SXC!

Power fc + HC sold to me pending payment Plus freeee bump! good on ya Simon!

So basiclly new coils are the only way out of this? cuz at first the turbo conversion was a bargin.. now everytime I fix up one thing the next happens! Im happy with the power gains.. but can 33 gtst's use other engine coilpacks?like ... 34 gtr's ? or 32 gtr's...etc... GRR... Annoying little things these are.

Hey guys.. update... The miss firing is also when the car is at operating tempurature. I did find it wierd when the car got dynoed roughly 3 days ago and there was no missfiring, but I figured out why when doing a few tests... NOTE: The missfiring or whatever problem is happening starts at bout 5 grand 1. It happens when I drop a gear and put my foot down.. 2. It happens when I put my foot down in any gear.. 3. It DOESNT happen when I slowly rev the car up... Which is why when the car was on the dyno and it was powered up slowly why it didn't do anything. Does this change anything? am I still meant to be looking for coils? any good reccommendations on brands? Thanks, Adam

Thanks for the help guys, I would have thought the current coils would handle alright... unless do turbo skylines have more powerful ones? Im only getting roughly 150-160 rwkw + 10-20% at front so max would be bout 170 - 180 awkw all up.. you wouldn't need $500 coils yet would you? thought my fuel pump would go before anything

LOL.... I was just waiting for somone to say it is stupid to push her first thing... but when u live on a main road and trying to get out in morning traffic..... but that still doesnt explain when the car is warm and at 5 grand.. why it is still a lil hesitant so coils then? hmm... as this is my first car everything is new to me.. could anyone point me in the right direction? places to buy? etc... anything is handy! Cheers, Adam

Hey guys, just wanted to ask a question about when I start up my recently turboed R33 GTS4 (rb25deT) I got it dynoed now and got the timing fixed up, it is running rich, but a powerfc or something alike will fix that, Problem is when I start to drive the car in the morn and it is cold, I'm finding that at about 5 grand it is sounds like it is missfiring, it wont go past bout 4,800 - 5,000. When the car is warm she is better, still finding when you want to get it in the high revs that she hesitates for a lil, which it didnt when it was an N/A. I dont know what it is,because as I said the timing was fixed up and new sparks, which were gapped correctly. Is this a turbo thing or do I need to fix up sumthing? Thanks, Adam

Hey mate, Interested in the Grille, is it a genuine GTR grille, will it fit on a N/A r33 front? are there any marks on it or is it ready to put on?

Hey guys, thanks for the help, BTW Bentleigh is a suburb In melb's SE suburbs, not Brissie:P sorry mate I am mainly looking at 18" just depends on price and the quality of the 17". I would prob only go 17" if they were p wide, but othernwise would still be aiming at 18". Also, PAV34, I do like enkei's, just don't know how well the goldy will go with a white car. Ive been to a few of the bob janes' etc.. and theres a set there that is not too bad... Advanti's.. Vienna.. shadow chrome...theres a pic on nissan silvia.com ---> http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/uploads...96994_thumb.jpg even though they are selling them for $3000 with tyres... I can get them from bob jane with PH1's on them for $2000 tell me what you think... the biggest these go for 4 stud are 18" by 7.5" ... not as wide as what I wanted, but they are deep dish and nice looking. also.. for other ppl looking.. been on www.tempetyres.com.. they are in NSW.. but theres a wizard.. just put in ur car and they give you what will fit and the prices... Thanks, Adam P.S still interested in what other ppl still have to offer.

Really? I didnt think they did... who makes? or where do u find 9" wide 4 studs? without changing a three piece wheel? oh btw, R33-GTS the rims are not too bad bad yeh distance.. and not exactly my taste, thanks anyway though. Adam