WYTSKY

I used to use bcpr6e, on 230rwkw was fine, but 260+ they were missing abit, I have been using bcrp7es and no fouling at all. obviously not on e85 but thought I would try to help

I have something else on, but not that interested in going, if I cbf i'll come along to this! tomorows weather looks to be awesome!

hey mate. I did end up solving this. turns out it was the attessa controller in the boot that had gotten wet from a leaking rear window wiper, there was nothing wrong with the abs unit itself! see here : http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/220125-r33-gtr-abs-4wd-a-lsdlights-on/ cleaned it up and it is now perfect! I will be post a full tutorial soon. Not sure because urs is a GTSt if it has a module in the boot too for abs, as you wont have attessa because its for awd's

Wow, I have been searching on the net high and low for my answer. I believe this is it! literally 3 minutes before my ABS and 4wd light came on I tried to get some water out the rear wiper! thanks heaps!

from the research I have done, I believe I have answered some of my own questions for other people's reference: 1. Unit cannot be bled, the normal brake system is what gets bled 2. not sure yet 3. I don't think a s2 will work in a s1 as a s2 has 2 lines that go to the top of the unit and a s1 has 2 bolts on the top instead, those extra 2 lines are attached to the side of s1. 4. fluid comes from brake master cylinder, normal dot3/4 castrol super etc... 5. I noticed especially in reverse that the brakes felt like they were stuck on, I took out the 2 relays in the black box and I still have the abs and 4wd lights on as I don't have abs now, but atleast I can drive to work tomorrow and use the car until I locate a replacement. I will do a full brake bled and put in new fluid to hopefully see if it fixes it, but I think the unit has probably had it. anything else I should know?

from the research I have done, I believe I have answered some of my own questions for other people's reference: 1. Unit cannot be bled, the normal brake system is what gets bled 2. not sure yet 3. I don't think a s2 will work in a s1 as a s2 has 2 lines that go to the top of the unit and a s1 has 2 bolts on the top instead, those extra 2 lines are attached to the side of s1. 4. fluid comes from brake master cylinder, normal dot3/4 castrol super etc... 5. I noticed especially in reverse that the brakes felt like they were stuck on, I took out the 2 relays in the black box and I still have the abs and 4wd lights on as I don't have abs now, but atleast I can drive to work tomorrow and use the car until I locate a replacement. I will do a full brake bled and put in new fluid to hopefully see if it fixes it, but I think the unit has probably had it. anything else I should know?

Hey guys, yesterday my 4wd and ABS lights come on and steering felt abit funny ( prob because of awd not running). got it home and took this vid -> first 3 seconds is fuel pump priming, but after that there is this funky noise coming from the abs module, I ran over there to check and could feel the vibrations in it. I have never ever seen anything leaking from the unit in the 5 years I have owned the car. I have multiple questions: 1. does the unit just need to be bled/ simple fix? 2. if I need to replace it, is it an easy job? any complications? 3. can I use a 33 s2 unit in a s1? 4. what fluid does it take and how much? 5. Is it safe to drive the car in this state? Ie if I cannot fix this by monday I need to drive to work... Thanks heaps guys. Adam

Hey guys, driving home a couple of hours ago, stopped at the lights, my 4wd and ABS lights come on and steering felt abit funny ( prob because of awd not running). got it home and took this vid -> first 3 seconds is fuel pump priming, but after that there is this funky noise coming from the abs module, I ran over there to check and could feel the vibrations in it. I have never ever seen anything leaking from the unit in the 5 years I have owned the car. I have multiple questions: 1. does the unit just need to be bled/ simple fix? 2. if I need to replace it, is it an easy job? any complications? 3. can I use a 33 s2 unit in a s1? 4. what fluid does it take and how much? 5. Is it safe to drive the car in this state? Ie if I cannot fix this by monday I need to drive to work... Thanks heaps guys. Adam

can't remember what it is called, but it looks identical to this, can get thicker/thinner versions of it so it is more pliable.

I've found heat wrap was horrible, got a decent brand, wrapped my manifold, was itchy as hell to put on ( my arms were bright red by the end of it) didn't make any difference, still got hot and after 3 months it cracked my cast iron manifold. what is alot better is making a heat shield out of heat reflective materials, bunnings sell the stuff and cut with a tin snip, that I did notice a difference that my intake pipes stay cool/lightly warm and oppose to roasting.

Back then I was just getting a grasp of changing a tyre. good relationship with workshop (they would briefly show me what would need to be done/swapped - things I couldn't do they would i.e drilling and tapping a thread for an oil line in the block) + lots of forum searching + manuals, you need to have some research and know the basics of what a turbo needs to function and what goes where in order to perform those functions. The stripy horse has a fair point though, there are lots of parts here, I don't know about NZ, it may indeed be easier to sell/keep your motor for what it's worth and buy a complete drop in motor, probably would work out similar costing + you have a backup engine if things go wrong, not a bad way.

Right this is probably not needed as your mind is made up, I was one of those ones that wanted to keep my motor and turbo it, (also GTS4). It did cost more then selling and buying a gtst, i did loose a car for about 10 days, I did some of the work myself, some the mechanics did, sourced all the parts myself from this forum's for sale area and saved a heap on parts, would not have it any other bloody way. My reason's for for keeping my car and doing the work are/were: - I knew the car ran well, motor was very low kms (about 90-100,000 I think when I did it) - I had just spent 9 months looking at tons of thrashed skylines and this one was fob and I was the first owner in aus (suspect owners in jap land drove it very sedately as it had baby seat mounts where the rear speakers should have been) - It was my first car, had spent every single bit of my savings plus a loan from dad for it, was not ready to sell it after a year - As it was a GTS4, I could not buy a awd turbo skyline unless it was a GTR or older 32 GTS4 - Because of my conversion, cops couldn't work out what it was, yes I was a p plate, but back on the old power to weight ratio it was just under (I told them it was the power of a GTST and weight of a GTR) and not being a smart ass to cops meant I got away with it every time. reason for not keeping it and selling/swapping: -save some money - hopefully the new skyline was roadworthy instantly and I would have a car for those 10 days all up it was probably about 1-2grand more doing it my way and I still am really happy with it, and now its alot more and alot faster and I am really happy how it has turned out. Something to think about, seeing as you already like your car's shape/4 doors etc.

thought all n/a GTS4s have a lsd? mine does, someone correct me if wrong?

yes, the car will work, the current pipe you have with the large box attached is a suppressor I'm quite sure (someone correct me if wrong). you can get the standard 2.5 or 3' metal pipe and use that instead. make sure you put the afm back on when you put it back together...

your welcome. cheers mate.

lol just finished mine today - thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/378425-how-do-you-seal-matte-flat-black/ checkout bottom of thread. really easy. 1. take out ash tray. 2. undo 2 screws behind it 3. pull out bottom half of dash facia - may need a good tug. 4. undo 2 screws that are now exposed at the bottom of the remaining facia. 5. again, pull off facia, but be gentle and dont pull it out far as all the buttons are connected. 6. while it is sitting on ur lap unplug hazard button, rear demister, clock, temp sensor and on the right side the mirror control. done you may want to take off the steering surround so that it doesnt scratch it, or be really careful

import monster and japan yahoo auctions

completed:

well, finished spraying the final coat of clear about 2 hours ago, it will be ready to put back in tomorrow, took so long because Melb's weather this week has been shocking with all the dampness and rain. pretty happy in the end, I took people's advice and didn't sand the metallic and it did still come out really good, nice colour when the sun hits it. I also did apply 3 decently heavy layers of clear and on the tiny bits where there was over spray/small hairs ( i was spraying this outside after all ) I gave those parts a very find sand to get rid of the little lump. thanks for all the help!

^ I agree, biggest thing that sh*ts me on the eastern is people are doing 90 in the right lane, or others want to do 120, up your bum, and you have a ton of cars in front of you and it does not achieve anything. I think overhead digital speed signs like in Johnson st, per lane that says the left and middle lanes = 100, right lane = 110/115

Thanks for your efforts Hamish, i'm sure it was a hard decision. yay for extra event guy!

Yeh, they are nothing special stock, thats why most people get a good full exhaust, FMIC, manual boost controller, possibly larger fuel pump, cam gears and a ecu programmed or controllable ecu (Powerfc) and it will get you on or close to 200rwkw instead of about 150rwkw. After that it gets pretty expensive (Turbo, Injectors, possibly bigger fuel pump, afm... list goes on), but the power increases alot with larger turbo. I think you'll find your 5L had alot more torque then the skyline, which is what makes it feel faster.

Thanks mate Will post when done.

No there are legitimate cases, just I cannot confirm if there were other factors involved to make the insurance companies deny the claim, ie if it was night/day so visibility was already reduced etc.

ahh I see, so normal paints ok (basic colours), but with the metallic flakes (which i'm not normally used to) you don't sand? I thought Hanaldo meant all spraying, but that seems to make sense with adding the clear coat... then just do this at the end? or what do you buff it with? http://www.meguiarsdirect.com/product_detail.do?q=4596