WYTSKY

Just something to be aware of - cannot confirm this but have heard multiple times from people, if its not road legal tint and you have an accident the insurance company will blame the fact you could not see out properly so you wont be covered.

Thanks guys, appreciate the help. Hanaldo, thanks the heads up, I have tried without sanding before and to be quite honest I really havent noticed much in terms of better scratch resistance sanding in between or not - the thing I have noticed that sanding helps is the final finish, just from things like overspray etc ( as I am doing it out of a can) where it can become a little rough or not completely even, just a light sand with wet and dry in between and a soft cloth to remove the dust gets rid of the small imperfections. eg. you spray a flat surface, a tiny buldge of overspray or metalic flakes dries on the surface, if you keep spraying it will get larger, but if sanded off before the next coat the surface is smooth again giving paint a good chance to get into all the pores of the plastic and end up with a smooth finish. Calipers and stuff that needs to be really tough, fair enough, but not going to be 100% smooth I called a few places and couldn't find much. ended up getting a can of dark metallic gray gloss (similar to factory r34 dash surround) and am now nearly done ( will post pics at the end), with a few clear coats it will be really resistant against scratches and I actually think it looks better then the flat black. Soz for shitty iphone pics, this is the colour after 2 coats Example of annoying metallic bits needing a sand

Got mine in hot side intercooler piping (+ve pressure) - gotta make sure it doesnt leak and silicon/epoxy it up. Advantages are as has been said - can drive the car with no intercooler piping and it will be fine up until boost obviously, really smooth all round, no recirc issues like stalling with a bigger turbo when clutching in etc and not infront of turbo so not a restriction with a 4" intake. Soz about crappy pics Had to relocate bov as well as if it is before the afm there will be real issues with recirc and stalling etc

Done

Nah its happened to me, pretty much the only annoying thing that started as soon as I got my car. Apparently its a little bit of gear oil from the motor behind it.... I just clean it up whenever I wash my car....only a really little comes out no?

Hey guys, Originally my dash was loosing that factory black rubbery paint so I had a crack myself going glossy argon silver... which was fine but now I wanted to go to something more original looking. I have done my third coat now and I am about half way until done (I take my time, about a day between coats and a good sand, best way for a good smooth and scratch resistant finish) but on my old glossy dash I sprayed clear coat to protect it from scratches. As a test I just softly ran my nail down the flat black and you can see a line, I just dont want to go to all this effort to find it is so easy to scratch. Advice/ideas? If there is no way and the matte is just really high maintenance/really easy to scratch I'd prefer to start again now with another glossy colour then to put it back in and then have to take it all out again. This was my old colour (sorry for crappy pics, I never got a good shot of what it looked like) Thanks, Adam

if the revs go up but you dont go anywhere or the revs almost seem like the car is in neutral then yes, clutch is slipping. there is a rating somewhere of different power levels that particular clutches can take, I am pretty sure a Heavy duty will be more then ample for an n/a

Happy bday man, all the best hopefully catch up soon

sounds like he was stating the obvious... it stands out.. he was saying it was shiny.. seems like that is the least of your worries now. get the stuff swapped and fixed up and get a real roady (you said its very clean) and then put all the mods back or leave it legal.....or don't do it at all and part out the car/sell for cheap.... These are the chances you take when you modify your car, not a matter of you were driving well so you don't deserve to get caught.

Hopefully can swing past

Lol I know, but it makes the N/A guys feel better

pod>stock panel highflow panel>pod cai+pod>=highflow panel /thread P.S cai = cold air intake

Bump for the Boss kit

James! good to know you'll be cruising soon. I'll be in for this

sydking you have been pming me abit about different things with your car... If you go the 25/30 route, im not 100% sure, but i think you will have alot of hassles if you want to keep awd with your car (I would) +1 for 3076r, as you have the same motor I can tell you it is very responsive. for a street driven car, high mount is asking for trouble (not that an external gate isn't either) if your goal is a responsive 300kw without too many headaches, stick with what you have got.

Check legacy usb is enabled in bios of laptops? Secondly, skyline>camry, however yes its a boat as it is slow and if stock suspension then high with alot of body roll.... What do you care what your mate thinks anyway.

Thanks mate, I found one in the meantime. Adam

Update - I picked up a complete (whole plastic box + lines and heater core) in great condition for $70.

Hypergear Turbo now gone, thanks Jake. Just Boss kit left

Looks good, should do the trick

Hey guys, if this is happening to you: then you need to replace the little heater core at the back of your dash as it has started leaking. My signs were: strong smell of coolant in the cabin, front windscreen fogging up, loss of coolant in the reservoir and then at the end of it my passenger foot well started leaking coolant. As I have already removed my aircon line because it split years ago, I didn't need to worry about disconnecting the aircon lines... if you do this, you will loose all the gas in your aircon. Tools: phillips heads, flat heads, maybe pliers, spanner set, possibly socket set Should be about an hour to get it out.. 1. Remove Glove box - There are 4 screws at the top and 2 plastic tabs at the bottom of it where it hinges to remove. 2. Remove plastic backing to glove box which hides aircon evaporator thingy - I think there is just 2 screws and then a decent tug should do. 3. This is what you should see, this is the aircon evaporator, we need to remove it. There are 4 screws holding it in, plus 3 electrical plugs, plus the 2 aircon lines(mine was already removed) 4. Once all those are disconnected, give it a good smooth tug and this is what you should see: Now we need to get back here 5. But before you do, disconnect the lines going to the heater core or coolant will spill all over you 6. Now, back under the dash at the back there are 4 phillip head screws per line, undo the screws plus one screw for the plastic tab that holds the core in place. 7. Thats it! you should now see this Gently slide it out trying to point the holes up as much as possible so they don't spill Yep... its leaking... So this is what you will be left with... Get a replacement ($60-100) and do the reverse, top up some coolant (check for air locks etc) and your back on the road Adam

Hey guys, Heater core went yesterday. I want to get my car up and running asap. Would like the complete assembly that goes behind the dash (big white box) Im in Eastern suburbs melbourne. willing to spend 60-100 depending on condition and pickup. number is 0419110110. Adam

lol, ur bloody right, long day yesterday, I keep forgetting because I have relocated mine in the intercooler piping so it does get +ve pressure, but factory location (infront of turbo) wont do that. In terms of the na afm maxing out, is it not possible the n/a one may not be able to read as much air at a particular voltage compared to gtst? - eg the n/a will give a 4.2 volts at X amount of air while the gtst one will read 3.2? +1 for boost leak or afm issues.

BUMP - Big time waster promised he was going to pick up the turbo last Thursday but then then apparently someone did a hit and run on his car at it was at the shop etc etc..... Still have boss kit aswell.

I believe you do need the gtst afm as the na one is only used to measure atmospheric pressures and abit of sucking, but not positive pressures. you should be getting about 150-160rwkw on 7psi.