Weq

sold

the only thing i can think of that u will need is to add some more cables to the harnesses. its running a boosted honda atm, so that only 2 wires for the ignition signal and 4 injectors instead of 6. This is very easy too do. when u buy the harnesses from greddy, they give u bare connectors and a bunch of wires. u add what u need. ive got the connectors, and u need is wires - standard stuff. otherwise this is solder in and play. u get all the tuning software and ur own data cable, which means u choose the tuner u want and u can also edit and play with ur maps. it also does data logging in realtime, with display on ur laptop of ur cars vitials.

bump

Hey guys, time has come to upgrade my fuel setup. im needing to do a few things the e-manage cant (with my new head) so its up for sale.. includes: 1x E-manage: injector harness, ignition harness, latest firmware 1x Tuning Software 1x Data Cable 1x User Manual This is a complete tuning solution for ur ODB0-1-2 cars. Handles boost or NA. Easy setup, easy to tune. Its been in use for about 9months now, no problems at all. Price: $600 obo

Exactly. this iw why kids need to be 'shielded' from hi-po cars when they are just learning how to drive. its the easy solution, least cost, most benifit in the eyes of the public.

what have u got the first knob set 2?? i forge4t whats its called, ratio or whatever. make sure its on sharpest and work ur way back to a steady boost pressure. that controlls how hard/fast boost comes on

if u wired the gate open and its still making boost. something must be up with ur wastegate flapper or there is a blockage on the diversion port. its the only explanantion as to why the ehxuast gasses arnt bypassing the turbine.

yeha my trust pod isnt oiled. i just ran it through water and let it dry.

i thought that the . means .05 of a bar? so 0.9. = 0.95 anyways been using the B more, and its great. Holds boost perfectly, the same everytime, and i have gained more power for some reason. must be the balance as ive set it to hard and it builds like a mother. Only thing i have to sort out is the different boost/2nd and 3rds. i get 1psi exactly more. So yeah. Bspec is cool. same results as a perfectly tuned A out of the box! also the solenoid doesnt make these funky noises like the a-spec does! only bad side so far of the B is that it doesnt have a boost readout. so when ur setting boost u dont know how much until u try it out and check the boost gauge.

update: i tried all i could, relearnt, re turned re everythingd. so i sold it lol, and grabbed a profec B. inital thoughts is it holds boost well, and no more dropouts on downshifts.. yay!

I guess its a bit late, but Ricol Automotive (they are next to riverwoord) did my e-manage. I was the first, but they said it was easier then the pfc

When i rang around engineers about my car, the first thing they asked me was i using an aftermarket ECU. They replied with 'if u are, i cant engineer it'. Simple answer id say is, NO, unless ur have a contact, then anything can be legal.

I dont know if this helps, but i know u can use RB20/26/RX7 injectors in Honda's with a resister pack. SO if the theory holds tru, u can can run injectors made for our cars. Ppl in the US like RC Engineering / Rodchester / Lucas / Bosch make upto 1000cc++ injectors which cost half the price as ur jap counterparts. We use em all the time with great results. http://www.camp1320.com/parts/new/fuel.html Has some low impedance (u need resister pack) to fit, but just google and u'll get plenty of dealers. I got some 4x440cc's for $300AUD. Just to add, apparently WRX injectors can be made to fit quite easily, and there is a mod to allow double the flow capcity (a factory installed restrictor is removed). http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.p...9&postcount=100 I have also heard bad things about RX7 injectors and spray patterns. just something to think about, maybe a bit outside the square.

http://www.apectariff.org/tdb.cgi/ff3235/a...=97&Search.y=21 that was my get out of jail free card. Quote the number.. hope it helps.

Sounds like a blower to me. But i dont think anyone could give an answer until u pop the bonnet.

na i didnt get a one with it. ive heard they are more trouble then they are worth. I'll try the rewire thing, atm its comming off my ciggy lighter 12v... it used to only happen randomly/rearly, but the other night it wasnt holding hardly any runs, so its prompted me to fix the situtation..

the unit itself is very stable. the power is always maintained and the overboost alarm never comes on.... when it swtuffs up it will readch 10psi then instantly drop to 7psi. happens alot when i dont boost right througha gear, say start at 3000rpm+ and nail it... i was thinking something like a ratio control, but it doesnt have one... do u think this could happen if it wasnt able to bleed off air fast enough..l atm my bleeder nipple isw position just away from the rengine bay wall. i will try and move it for better airflow just incase.. i'll try a reprogram and include the downshifts in the learning procedure... other then this th controller has been good.. brings on boost faster and sits neatly in my ash tray

just wondering if u ever found the solution to ur profec A problems. i am having one atm where it will return the car to stock boost settings (as if its spiking and overboosting) but it isnt overboosting.. its anouying, it happens alot on downshifts when boost comes on hard... i was thinking cleaning the stepper motor or something?

I got ur manual once, thanks heeps. Apprecaite the help, all my questions have been answered

Seriously guys, really apprecaite the info! I was a bit confused with the P1 and P2 learning modes and i didnt spend much time in them (without hte manual, i didnt know!) Boost holds decently atm, but its a bit jumpy up top. I'll think i'll do another setup and see if it will hold boost better. One last question, regarding the learning mode, what boost level does is it supposed to reach during setup? Like stock wasteage levels? or something preset on the unit?

I just recently install a Profec A, and from the moment i turned it on, the control/soleniod unit made a heep of wierd 'computer' and clicking sounds. After everything was setup up, the unit still makes these noises when the car is turned off but the ignition is on. It seems to me like the soleniods are constantly opening and closing! Is this supposed to happen? All my vacume hoses are setup correctly, and the controller itself is working fine at controlling boost? Another query, does anyone have the Profec A instruction manual (pdf or other electronic form?) my email is weq@mooh.org, id apprecaite it! Thanks for ur help!