C_DawG

Italian tune it. Put it back together and bounce it off the limiter every gear.

R32 fits perfectly, handbrake cables are even the exact same length. Put pine apples in it while the cradle is out.

Wash it with diluted white vinegar, then do a good hand wash straight away.

Stick it on stands and drag the CRO out, DMM isnt of much use.

I used S14 front hubs and calipers, with Moog balljoints pressed into stock lower arms. For the rear i used a complete R32 rear cradle. Used R32 master and booster also.

There is a static adjuster on the rod that goes into the booster, the bit that mounts to the pedal itself. Wind that out a bit and it will firm the brakes up.

Looks like a manual one to me, I thought all the autos had crappy foot park brakes like mine does atm. Im keen on the console dude, would I be able to pick it up sometime on the W.E?

Sounds like what mine started doing right before the fuel pump died. Was missing a bit and popping when I backed off. Went to start it the next day and it wouldnt fire! Turned out the pump was fubar, took it out and gave it 12V and it would surge then, stall, surge then stall. Just stuck a Bosch one in.

With the cost of front mounts these days I wouldnt bother. Remember you can get cheap silicon tubing at truck supply shops, about a 3rd of what 'performance' shops charge.

A 6.8oHm in series with the ~2oHm of the injector, at 12V will draw 1.36A. So at 1.36A the 6.8oHm will dissipate 12.577 Watts.

Zoom magazine did it in a BA XR6.

Not much mods needed, hangers are different and will need moving and re-welding.

Carbies? Top Fuelers use mechanical injection. I'd go MoTeC if you can.

Yeah i made a nice one for my Cef out of MDF, nice solid 16mm and it sits like the stock one. Was able to screw my speakers in nicely. Got amazingly soft black carpet from the local recycling yard for $7, appears unused, got about 3x1m.

Cigweld has amazing quality welders lead for cheaper then Jaycar also. Its very soft and flexable, heaps of sizes. Dont go in asking for X guage, say what you want in mm^2, we arent american.

I was also strongly recommended Koni's over Bilstein at Centreline.

Anyone?

Try cleaning it mate, also try cleaning the IAC/AAC etc. Also clean the carbon around the thottle body.

Hey guys, Wondering if anyone has a fuse box translation, the under dash one, for a A31. Or if any other electrical info would be handy

Can I grab some info/pics about the guards, ya PM box is full EDIT: The Vented ones

Actually they keep the ignition circuit closed, not open

Mine is marked S13, but I made my own hangers.

Thanks a lot for that Duncan, just one quick question. It appears the lines run to the front power steering rack and from there to the solenoid. Do you just unbolt them all and leave it, or do you have to plug them? This is for a A31 Cefiro, however everything seems R32 based.

Hey guys, I recently locked my HICAS using a replacement bar. I guess I didnt get the tie rod ends exactly right because on the Eye-O-meter I can see there is too much rear toe in. But I was thinking, the hicas tie-rod ends go onto a ball joint on the hub. So the only way to adjust the toe is to wind the tie-rod end in until the balljoint is full one way, then the hub still start to move with it, but what happens when the hub moves upwards, wont this cause weird dynamic toe? Please tell me all I'll need is a four wheel alignment and I'll be happy.

Is a normal VL-T box more like an rb20 or an rb25 one?