munro'sgts-t

yeh dnt get me wrong im happy with the power on stock ecu n stuff but for the price of $575 and apperently 8 hours whorth of tuning is what has got me in a bad mood and then the body kit topped it off but i piked up a set of clear nismo indicators still in box and fuel filler car still in box for $40 so that was good

no i wasnt there they would not let me stay they kept making shit up like oh itl take 6 hours and rah rah rah they obviously didnt want me there so i left them to it and not very impressed the car is running better and has a better mid range and top end so its good but not for the money and the time that they spent doing it concidering its a peice of piss to use an apexi safc. and i did tlk to him bout the kit he said he will tlk to his boss and get bak to me

ok so i got my car tuned today im pretty happy with the tune but my car only made 181rwkw with stock turbo, apexi safc, 3inch dump pipe with 3.5inch cat back with stock cat, turbosmart bleed valve set at 11.2psi now is it the stock cat holding me back from 200kw like every one else is getting with there stock turbo or the safc. another thing how much would you pay to get your car tuned etc cos i think i paid a fair penny to get a 20hp gain the way i had it tuned it was making 223hp and they got 243 and my air fuel ratios wear reasonbly good. i wont be naming any names but it cost me $575 for the tune and it took then close to 8 hours to do it and to top it all off they scraped the f**k out of my brand new painted body kit not 1 week old grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

got my car tuned today it made 243hp at the wheels or 181rwkw on 11.2 psi stock turbo 600x300x76 fmic 3inch dump 3.5inch cat back with stock cat apexi safc series 1 this is a little on the low side i think concidering every one else with stock turbo is making around 200kw do you think its the stock cat or the safc???

ok so ive just finished reading all 263 pages of posts on this topic and its great lots of great helpfull imformation in hear. i currently am in the early stages of dismatling my rb30 bottom end. the one thing i would like to no is do acl make pistons for the rb30e all i have seen are rb30et pistons on there site and other places but they give a bad cr so i want rb30e pistons some wear on hear i got a part number for acl rb30e pistons ( 6mkry2799 ) this is with moly rings according to the guy who posted it up cnt remeber i no its on hear sumwear. just wondering if any of you have hurd of them im looking to make 300rwkw no more just a nice 300kw would be great from wat ive read i should be able to make this power with these pistons, stock cams,gtr springs,turbo? possibly a gt35r and all the other stuff like ecu n stuff

hey guys so im just in the early stages of building a 25/30 hybrid. and im up to page 70 in the thread so bear with me i fmy questions hav been answered, what i would like to no is which part of the head has to be weleded up for the vct is it the little hole just below the larger round gallery in the photo from the pdf doc. if not could someone plz tell me which one it is. and also wear abouts is the oil return line that i need to plum bak into the oil return line from the 25det head? if someone could post up a new link about connecting up the vct via external feed would be great beacause all of the links in the early pages of the thread do not work for somereason. and last of all what sort of power can i push on stock cams with stiffer valve springs? thanx heaps can wait to get started pick up the bottom end friday

good work and it dnt matter how long it take the smile on your face when u turn tha tlight on for the 1st tiem at night will be worth it. and the light illuminates really well i think when you standing about 2-3m behind it after about 5m or so it starts to get a lil blury. i hav a pik on page 4 if u wanna no how it looks u can se th eleds in this pik bu tits jus tthe camera in real lif you cant see each led its to bright

umm sorry guys i dnt have a picture of how i laided the leds out but ill try and explain it hear goes. the section i cut out of the back was 400mm u will see the 2 lines in the black plastic that measure 400mm from one to the other. i then bought 2 x 200mm red leds from supercheap auto( you can get them at autobarn ect to) and i thoguth it was all going to be sweet lol till i meausured the leds n found they wear bout 230mm each lol wich meant if i just put them in a straight line there would have been a big gap between the leds in the middle so what i did was take then end of one led ( the blanked of end) and cut the clear cylender tube that the led and power board thingy that all the lights are solderd onto. i cut it just infront of the last led on the blanked off end with a small hacksaw then i removed the rubber plug that seals up the other end of the other led then just put a dob of silicon on the end of the exposed board and slid it into the open end of the other led hope this is all making sence. then what i did was used locktite 406 (superglue) to fix one end of the led to the bottom half of the black plastic you cut out earlyer. the reason you mount it on the bottom of this and not the middle is becase the bottom of the plastic actually lines up with the middel of the letters. then i put sum 406 under the join in the leds and also at the other end which overhangs the black plastic by about 2-3 cm then when i went to put it bak in all i did was put the onverhanging led end in 1st then just pushed the other end in an siliconed it all up. dnt forget to drill a hole at eather end of the backing to that the wiring can come bak threw i just drilled into the fixed peice ( the peice still attached to the clear side)

thanx man yeh it wasnt to hard at all for every one out there who wants one just give it a go its easy

ok so hear we go finally got a pik of it all done i dnt have a rear bar in this pik but yeh still looks sweet hope this photo works

hey well i havnt got any piks just yet but i will get there soon. i just sorted out the leds again cos it looked avergave having the leds stagered so i modified the 2 led strips and made it fit in one straight line with a lil bit of cutting and it turned out good ill get some piks up soon

lol sorry so wear not all perfect but u get wat i mean

hey guys im pretty new to these forums but i have just about completed this lil project that use are all doing and it is quiet easy all i did was tape of the letter and snad the plastic and paint it i happend to have some spair paint from my body kit laying around. for the bak of it i just used a stanley knife and a hand help haksaw blade to cut the bak strip out u will see there is a 400mm section in the bak of it ther eis a plastic line at ech end of it u will no wa ti mena when u see it just cut down them and along the sides and pop it out. then for the lights i just went and bought 2x 200mm red led lights from autobarn or the like and gled them to the baking that i cut out all i had to do to fit thes was slightly stager the leds so i didnt have a big gap in the lights in the middle but it looks wuit good u can tell that the 2 lights are stagered but i dnt mind then all i have ot do now is glue the bak peice bak into it and put clear over the top of my paint. i wired them into my parkers looks awsome. hope that may help anyone whith there project.

hey guys and girls just wante dto ask a few questions i have searched and leart a bit about my problem but i jus tneed to make shore. so my driver side window stoped working the other day but b4 that you could bump the door and it would work now nuthing happens. so i found a dry solder joint in the relay and fixed that so now i have power getting to the motor when i press up and down on the trigger i tested it with a test light. wat i noticed tho was that when i pushe dthe trigger down it stays down and keeps the power on which is why the motor is burnt out but how do i fix the trigger or wear do i get a replacement from so i dnt fry the new motor thanx in advance

ok so ive got it booked in for a tune and i got rid of the misfire it was just going into RnR like i suspected but there is still one weird thing i cant work out when u exelerate hard in 1st the boost goes to wear its set till about 4000rpm then just tails out and drops rapidly is this normal or is sumpthing wrong it dosnt do this in any other gear and still runs fine in 1st just does that so anyone who noes why its happening le tme no plz thanx in advance

hey mate i live in gladstone well the only clubs hear are players and bojangles and they are on the water front and well pubs they are all in the main street whice is right beside the water front. but yeh aprat from that there is f*k all todo up hear and watch out for the cops over easter they go nuts up hear i got defected the other night lol and i wasnt even driving they pulled up behing me in a car park.

yeh hopfully im going to see a tuner tomorrow as i live in gladstone qld we only have like 1 tuner in town but i guess its beter than none. im just hopin gits not the coil packs earthing out cos they expensive i dnt think it will be because it was fine running 05-06 bar with tahndard boost solinoid i think its just getting into rich and retarded so hopfully the safc can tune that out it ws in the car when i got it one day ill get around to getting a new ecu

oh ok yeh i understand that side of it so now if i just get it tuned do you think they will be able to tune the missing out of it ? or is that another issue all together

ok so im new to this forum but im in need of some help from you guys who know your stuff. so i whent and bought a turbosmart bost controller just a t-peice one and fitted it all up tried to set the boost and it wont conrol boost under 0.7 bar thats as far bak as the adjuster winds atm i was jus tlooking to run the 0.5 bar it had been running till i could get it tuned it has and apexi safc not the best but beter than nuthing i guess now my problem is that now when it hits 4000rpm approximatly it starts missing like its going into RnR does this sound right i tried to lean the fuel out a bit with the computer im not to sure if it helped or not and i dnt want ot lean it out to much and course damage so. im positive ive got it set up right from the instructions i got with it says to have the controller flow arrow going towards the actuator is this right? any one who could give me some helpful imformation would be great thanx oh and if this helps the cars mods are fmic,3'' dump and 3.5''cat back, apexi safc

Skyline model = R33 GTST wheel type= advan racing series 1 tri spoke Wheel diameter = 17" Wheel width = 8" front 9" Rear Wheel offset = +35 Front +35 Rear Tyre size = 235/45/17 Front 235/45/17 Rear Modifications to fit: none i was looking at getting some 18s for the line but im not shore what offsets to go any help would be great im looking at 18x8.5 front and rear with tyres probly 235x40x18. car has been lowered nuthing stupid tho and still has standard brake calipers etc i would like to have the offsets so that the wheels are close to the edge of the gaurd cos it looks funny when wheels sit inside the gaurds heaps so any one who can tell me wat offsets to run would be great