M E S O G L E A

I was thinking the VCT was recessed into the head and the seals were matched to that. i looked at a photo and that is not the case. But it would leak out the front of the cam. What gear did you use and what about a knock pin? I assume you applied the RTV to the cam face. Why did you remove yours?

You would require a machinist to fabricate a dummy VCT or at least something that matches the cam seals and spend lots of money in the process. If you really don't like the VCT, just disconnect the solenoid.

I can boost to 20 PSI with my 2530 and it's very reponsive. The highest I've seen is 22 PSI. Make sure you upgrade the head gasket and it wouldnt hurt to have the head reconditioned.

This small line/hose or the recirc piping?

It's been almost a year, what are your thoughts on the Moonface pipe?

In my frustration, I took off the GTR BOV to install the Greddy. I wanted to try the adjustable spring setting just for the hell of it. A few weeks ago, I enlarged the cross pipe BOV port and the ECR33 adapter plate to match the Greddy valve and the OEM metal gasket was not going to work with the GTR BOV either. I used .8mm gasket material and it didn't look like it made full contact/seal. It only had impressions from the BOV flange on the ends where the bolts are. I figure that the gasket wasn't soft enough or I didn't torque it correctly. So I sprayed a thick serving of silicone lube on both sides of the gasket and installed the Greddy. Like magic, the car is fine. I sincerely apologize for going off initially. My life are a little hectic right now. I'm going to be in Iraq in a few months and my wife is staying in Japan.

AFM is clean. Plugs are less than a week old. I know the GTR BOV requires no mechanical adjustment, it was the PFC tune for recirc. Yes, it needed it because it would not idle otherwise. the fuel is about 40 PSI with the vacuum line off. Why is the adjustable FPR not required? It ran fine (except for the dosing fun) with the SSQV, I doubt the vacuum issue. It really doesn't matter, I have to return to the US in about a month, unexpectedly. I'm going to get raped on the selling price regardless. I could part it out but I don't have the time. It would be nice to sell it for $7000 but that's not going to happen in its current condition.

I'm sick of this car. I've spent almost 2 years amassing parts and over 3 months assembling the engine. It has never run the way I want it to. It's been to the tuner 4 times. Initial tune, twice for idling problems then adjusted for the GTR BOV that the majority of you say is so great. That GTR BOV has no dosing silliness but the boost hit is soft and it doesnt play well with the engine. I've had 4 BOV's (SSQV, Synchronic, Greddy and now the GTR). The hated SSQV has the best overall normal street drivability and hardest hitting boost but the surging/dosing and associated drive line chatter at high boost is unacceptable. So far, I replaced the coils with a new set of Splitfires, then a new igniter. Last week, when it went in for the GTR BOV adjustment, a Splitfire went bad so a new set of OEM Nissan coils and a new coil harness were installed. Also, my third set of sparkplugs in 8 months. Got the car back this Saturday. Seemed to run fine until I boosted to the normal 18 PSI. Since then, at first start up, from sitting overnight, it runs normal until it warms to about 60 degrees C. It then will miss and the idle will be unpleasant until after 85 degrees C. Tuner says there is very little fuel or timing changes between 70 - 90 C. It rarely runs hotter than 84 C. Of course, took him for a ride tonight and the car behaved relatively normal. My wife said a cloud of black smoke was emitted after I drove off in anger afterward, while boosting to 17 PSI. Perhaps my fuel pressure gauge is not correct and the PFC is doing its best to compensate. The softer boost hit and smoke could be attributed to over fueling but the A/F ratio and the sensor readings from the PFC are within normal operating parameters according my tuner. How can it be rich then? The only thing left to do is verify the fuel pressure with a known good, calibrated gauge and send the PFC to Apexi for testing. My tuner is Fujii from Fujii Dynamics. After living in Japan for a few years; I've learned that the locals cannot think outside of the box. I think that is the case here. Any ideas? 1994 ECR33 Reconditioned head at NAPREC Balanced crank, flywheel and pulley at NAPREC PFC HKS pod filter Copy Super Suction Q45 MAF GT-R FMIC HKS 2530Kai turbo kit GTR BOV HKS EVC V HKS 1.6mm head gasket JJR split/dump pipe Cat back exhaust with resonator Nismo Timing belt HKS exhaust cam gear Tomei Poncams Nismo 555cc injectors and fuel regulator GT-R fuel pump

I have the same turbo. With an atmo BOV no whistle. If I run a recirc, I can hear the compressor whine until the BOV closes.

I figured the OEM BOV was designed to be fully open at idle and light throttle. This would certainly avoid hunting and to stop the flutter. I know you all like the GTR BOV but what makes it better than the Greddy RS? The RS is very similar to the GTR in operation and design. The RS has a larger valve, is adjustable but has a smaller outlet. If I remove the smaller spring and it opens fully at idle, it should meet or exceed OEM.

1. I know the OEM BOV is designed to allow metered air to re-circulate, but is it suppposed to be fully open at idle, closing as the vacuum reaches zero? 2. My PFC was tuned with/for an atmo SSQV. What is the major difference in the tune when using an atmo or recirc? I ask because if I use the OEM BOV's it idle hunts and fouls plugs. GTR BOV does not flutter but has bad idle, feels "soft" and fouls plugs. SSQV has a great idle, very responsive but flutters. Synchronic idle was not all that great, would open at the wrong times, fouled plugs and I just don't trust US made products. Greddy is similar to the SSQV. I prefer the Greddy because it has a larger valve, the recirc outlet will fit the OEM hose, has two springs (remove the smaller one and it functions like OEM) and it is adjustable. I even port matched and chamfered the cross pipes BOV outlet to the Greddy increasing the area by about 320mm. I am going on deployment very soon and my wife will be staying in Japan driving this car. I will be taking in tonight setting up an appointment to have the tune adjusted, it needs to be functional for about a year with no problems.

I apologize for being stubborn. I installed a new OEM GTR BOV today. The car no longer shudders like the gobbling SSQV. It does, however, cut-out "softly" if I release the throttle partially on boost and the idle is not perfectly happy. I attribute this to a small recirc leak because I used some ill fitting plumbing coupler until I get the proper hose. Have you any idea how ridiculously hard it is to find automotive hose in Japan? Auto part stores might have a small section for performance with no universal hoses and an isle or 3 dedicated to air freshers, mirrors and useless Hello Kitty accessories.

Well thanks. I try the OEM one at a later date, need to order the GTR BOV and some suspension bolts today. If it's tuned for atmo and revert to recirc, will it need to be tuned again?

Well, I installed the OEM BOV and it idles like crap. I tried the Dodge mod and still idles like crap. I cover the outlet with my hand and it idles fine I put the SSQV on and it idles fine. What makes you so sure its the SSQV and not the solid clutch?

You are saying I don't need to worry about the pressure loss out of the bleed orifice, doesn't that cause a rich condition?

So I leave the bleed hole an let boost escape? I am running a PFC that is tuned for the atmo SSQV. I have a friend that has an SSQV and his doesnt act like mine and does not have the solid clutch plate. Why does everyone hate the SSQV and other aftermarket BOV's?

What causes this, the dual stage valve system in the SSQV? If I reinstall an OEM GTST/GTR BOV, what about the bleed hole on the flange? I was thinking of trying the Dodge BOV mod but it seems like it will act the same as an SSQV. Anyone else have similar issues using the SSQV?

OK, so you are saying to reinstall the OEM BOV.

If I'm driving while boosting and decide to reduce throttle slightly (while staying on boost), the car will shudder or chatter. To avoid this, I must fully release throttle then reapply at a lower level. My reasoning for this issue: I have a HKS SSQV, HKS 2530 Kai and Nismo super copper mix single. Any reduction of the throttle while boosting increases vacuum causing the post-compressor intake charge to be vented to the atmosphere. The unsprung friction plate transfers all of that angry compression braking to the drive train causing the car to shudder the same way the SSQV sounds, like a the sphincter of the universe gobble. I know you all dont like the SSQV because its all ricer but the wife loves it and its the thing to do here in Japan. Anyone else heard of this before?

Back from the tuner. 31500 Yen later and the idle hunt and VCT antics are no more. But, the idle is over 1100 until it warms to operating temps. It starts acting normal at about 84 degrees. It also likes to hang for a second or two then slowly drops to about 850. He couldn't find anything wrong, all sensors and indicators OK so he did the ECU reset, idle learn and tune re-flash. That's the best he could do on short notice, he could search more but it would take longer and cost more.

I'm positive it’s the idle learn on the PFC or the TPS setting. It's not the TPS, I installed a spare. I disconnected the AAC and it wont idle high with the A/C on. I disconnected the VCT solenoid and it wont idle hunt after blipping the throttle. I disconnected the TPS and the idle is fine and the VCT will not actuate. It’s a killer street motor. Fast response, about 350HP at the wheels yet drives like a kitten if your foot is not in it. Basically it’s a great car if its not idling.

TPS adjustment didn't do much. The PFC displays X.XX volts DC. I don't know how many decimal places the PFC actually reads voltage. If I had the software and cable, I would save the tune and reinitialize the idle. I'm positive that's what it needs because off throttle its great and boosts over 18 PSI with knock readings well within limits. I hope Fujii can fix this.

I changed vacuum hoses and then blocked them off, no change. Whats up with the air regulator under the manifold?

I'm going to try Rezlo's method and gradually adjust the TPS tomorrow after work. One of my neighbors gets all butt hurt if the car idles (or attempts to) in my parking area for too long.

TPS set at .45 VDC, tuner says that is fine. So I should adjust the TPS above or below this?