M E S O G L E A

I set up an diagnosis appointment with my tuner for next week. We set a initial price limit of 50000 yen to search for the problem. How do I copy the tune if I don't have the PFC software? Can I get the info off the hand controller? My main issue is that I'm leaving Japan and I cant take the car. I've spent way too much on this car because I expected to be able to stay at least 3 more years. I know I'm going to get screwed of the sale but if it doesn't impress a potential buyer the first time, it wont sell. A jacked up idle will turn away any buyer.

The RPM's increase and that turns on the VCT. The VCT causes stumble under light acceleration. The stumble drops the RPM's. The AAC tries to compensate and over-corrects. Repeat. I don't think Fujii did the tune wrong, he looked at the PFC display twice already saying all readings are withing normal parameters. I don't like the idea of messing with a $1200 tune.

Yes, it was tuned at Fujii Dynamics.

When cold, it hunts and the VCT solenoid actuates on and off. I believe the cam advance causes stumble increasing the hunting. If I disconnect the VCT, it still hunts but no as bad. After it warms to operation temp (80 C +) it will hunt less. Once it stabilizes, it idles fine. Blip the throttle and it will hunt. If I turn on the A/C, it shoots to about 1200 RPM. I've cleaned the AAC and MAF. I tried 3 times to find vacuum leaks with a can of spray cleaner. I've replaced vacuum lines. I swapped out a spare AAC. I've checked all the intake pipe couplers. I replaced the igniter (holy fluxing expensive for 6 transistors!), coils and spark plugs. My tuner looked at it, he checked the timing and used cleaned to test for a vacuum leak this afternoon and thinks its the AAC valve. According to the PFC display everything is fine. I'm setting up an appointment repair tomorrow because I'm getting madder each time I attempt to troubleshoot. He has no clue because the symptoms are vague. It drives fine, it just refuses to idle. I'm pulling my hair out over this. Any ideas?

Original VCT was malfunctioning. Known good VCT installed, bad noises stopped and engine runs smoother. I will cut apart or x-ray the old one and post the pictures in the near future.

I will finish installing the known good VCT this afternoon. As for the mechanics, 3 certified ones work at the auto hobby shop where I built the engine and do all the work. They agree with my diagnosis. I'll try to gain access to the VCT internals. I may call in a favor and have the unit X-rayed.

Pulled off the suspected bad VCT unit, the cam is not damaged. No visual external damage to the VCT and the 4 bolts holding the gear were tight. The VCT appears to be a sealed unit, but I didn't have much time to look at it because the shop closed.

With the timing and cam/valve/rocker covers off, I can physically rotate the camshaft (advance/retard a few degrees) while both cam gears, belt, exhaust cam and crank do not rotate. The engine starts, runs and boosts just fine. I have oil pressure and knock readings are within normal operating parameters. Based on grinding noise when cold, tapping noise upon VCT actuation when hot and a spare engine not exhibiting the advance/retard movements, unless the intake cam knock pin/keyway broke, I suspect the VCT device is defective.

I removed the timing cover to check condition and tension of the belt, which is Nismo and has about 12000Km on it. I also pulled the cam covers to verify the torque on the bearing caps and to look for obvious wear indicators. Everything looks normal. The cam will move and the gear/VCT does not because it is being held in place by the belt. I tried to reproduce the "failure" on the spare engine (VCT is still attached and cam in the engine) by holding the gear/VCT with a strap wrench and trying to move the cam. It appears to be locked and solid. I don't know exactly how the VCT mechanism works so I can't fathom what is malfunctioning. Based on the picture, the return spring, helical gear or piston may be broken. After the swap, I will disassemble and post pictures of the suspected bad VCT.

Another of my posts refers to noise the front upper portion of the engine is producing. I thought it was the lifters but after seeing how the cam will move while the gear and VCT housing does not, indicates that something is not correct. I checked for similar cam movement on a spare engine and its quite solid and will not move in relation to the VCT housing. I'm curious to its internal workings to help me discern what went wrong with it. I plan on tearing off the front of the engine to swap the VCT system starting tomorrow.

Does anyone have detailed drawings, pictures, or illustrated parts break down of the VCT system? All I can find is this and its not very clear.

I think the lifters are just old. It makes stupid noises untill 75 degressC and then its all good excepts for the VCT noise. Runs great and no real issues. I think i should have replaced all the lifters when I rebuilt it but they are 4400 yen each.

They are stupid expensive. I ended up getting the Splitfire's because I have to leave Japan this summer.

Its not really difficult if you have the right tools, patience and time. I cleaned up the short side radius, port bowl/throat and removed casting flash. The intakes were not bad, the exhaust was the most restrictive. The gasket matching was great from the factory, so I didn't touch it. If you use carbide burs, make sure they are for aluminum and be prepared to spend at least 12 hours doing this. Standard Abrasives makes a kit just for this operation. I used two of them. They also have a DIY guide. http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.aspx

Right after the throttle plate opens, the VCT solenoid actuates allowing oil to advance the intake cam. I hear the solenoid, then a tapping/grinding noise for a second or two. I think the oil is not flowing to the VCT system or it slow for some reason. I figured the solenoid went bad so I swapped it out with a spare. Now I think there must be a blockage somewhere because I disconnect the solenoid connector and the sound disappears. It has Tomei Poncams and a recent oil change. The cam gear is tight, verified it today. The timing belt holds the cam gears but the VCT allows cam will move a few degrees with a wrench applied to the main bolt. I am unsure of the mechanical working of the VCT so I dont know if the movement is normal. Any ideas?

They are about 30,000 Yen more than a new set of Splitfires/OEM Nissan coils, ignighter and HKS DLI through my tuner. Most of his customers have them on their cars.

Anyone have experience with these? My tuner recommends them over the Splitfire and HKS DLI. http://www.okadaprojects.com/usa/products_direct.htm

I'm a big fan of Mobil1. I'm starting to see that there are better lubricants available. The higher the flash point the better according to Fujji Dynamics. He also recommends the higher viscosity for protection.

Under the recommendation of my tuner and the insistence of my wife, I use RH9 "Black" 10W-50. 1L is ￥2,520.

I have one of those JJR split/dumps on my ECR33. I concur on the fitment issue. I had to use a pipe bender to alter the straight portion to clear the underside of the car. They can also be incredibly annoying to install because of the design, the bolts/studs are hard to reach due to the joining of the pipes to the flange. While it improved power and decreased spool time, the wastegate swing valve hits the flange at max opening. My tuner says it causes boost creep because the wastegate pipe is too small. It works but could be better. these are supposed to be one of the best http://www.moonface.co.jp/mfr/ex/exhaust/exchamber-pro.htm

Before and after the install.

Rebuilt engine using new OEM rings, new bearings and other internals. I ported the head and exhaust manifold. The head had a valve job with new bronze guides and was shaved. The block was decked. The crank, harmonic balancer and flywheel were balanced. All machine work performed by Nagoya Precision. I assembled the engine with advice from Fujii Dynamics. ECU and boost control settings by Fujii Dynamics. Fujii says the ignition system is tired, high boost misfire at 17 PSI. About 315 horses at the wheels. Power FC HKS pod filter HKS Super suction Q45 MAF GT-R FMIC HKS 2530Kai turbo kit HKS SSQV HKS EVC V HKS 1.6mm head gasket J JR split/dump pipe Resonator/Cat back exhaust Nismo Timing belt HKS exhaust cam gear Tomei Poncams Nismo 555cc injectors and fuel regulator GT-R fuel pump

I plan on asking him as I had my wife inquire what plugs I should use when she ordered more parts and set up for a tuning appointment. With my limited Japanese and his limited English, it usually ends up with him saying, "more better". He doesn't give a crap where I buy them but his price is usually much less than others because I have already spent a few thousand at his shop in parts. I get a discount as I am a regular and his only gaijin customer. He said any are good as long as they are the 8 series heat range.