Jetwreck

this what you want? I can make it bigger if needed Nissan__Converted_.pdf

sorry....will have to give it a miss

see attached PDF....snapshot there as well of the air relief plug If you do have an airlock the process takes an hour or so. Put the car on a level surface then get it hot....loosen bleed valve slowly without removing it.....if you hear air seeping then you have found your problem....if it just squirts radiator fluid good chance you don't have an airlock. co.pdf

I believe the SAS remap still happening..........

Have you tried bleeding the cooling system? Using the bleed valve? Airlocks are a pain to get out in these things

try this http://www.brandsoftheworld.com/search/116548454/

do you need a new one? I have 2 if yours has a split in it!

+1 on talking shit

can you send it to me as well please....buddy pal mate. BTW...check out this.....pick the error's in what his saying...

Andrew if you around my area give me a call and I'll have a look for you...I am home most nights

got a pic?

it's not a big job...give em a ring....I would say about $300 though as it takes about 2hr's. If they wont I will do it for you Jules.....for a small cost

HDI pricing has been posted in M35 Info as it is now a production item

OK so we all now have a stock item we can buy off the shelf here in Australia rather than going the whole Japan or US route. A couple of months ago Danny(for those that know him) approached HDI to get them to develop an intercooler kit to suit the M35 in Australia. Those kits are now available from HDI as a bolt on production run item. Please note that like all business's if they don't get the sales they will drop it from there line up. The kit uses the latest technology in IC's being the GT2 core. It's made a huge difference from the bottom end through the midrange to the top end in my car. It also has an awesome displacement of heat even in 40 degree weather. Kit pricing as follows but will need to be confirmed with Jason at HDI: *Full kit with IC, all piping, clamps and fan - $899 *IC only - $450 *There is a cheaper option but you will have to talk to HDI directly. http://www.hybrid-power.com/index.php P.S. More photo's are available just PM me though.

Hi Stuart, I'm using the Nulon 10W/40 for the motor and Nulon for the gearbox. The gearbox one is for Matic J(As well as others). Diff oil should be the same as an R34 GTR me thinks. You need about 5lt's for the motor and about 8lt's for a fully drained gearbox. cheers

Anyone know and tricks for this problem? *Cannot turn the stereo, TV or CD power on....haven't tried the cassette deck as I don't have any cassette's. *The only button that seems to work is the rear window demister. *I have pulled out every fuse in the car and checked it - All three fuse box's. *There is power going through the unit as I can here the CD stacker resetting itself when I pull and put back in one of the fuses. *The A/C seems to be on a default setting but I cannot control that either. Is there some kind of relay reset anywhere that I don't know about.

OK I have an old 2007 Wheels in my hands...only the SS Sedan but close enough. SS - MT - 0-100=5.6, 1/4 =13.9 SS - AT - 0-100=5.8, 1/4 = 13.9 Now the wagon is 60kg's heavier so lets take a shot in the dark and add .5 of a second on. The M35 is still not quicker. I'd say that the article and the writer is FOS!

is that the anniversary of the poverty pack

there are some around....I saw some while sifting through looking for more pics of mine.

Yeh I did some timings.....2AM i the morning in the middle of winter....would have to go and find the thread again....it's somewhere on SAU. That was taking my car to 110km's on the dial(GPS =100km's) Mod's at the time were a cat back exhaust and a decent air filter. Have to admit last night would not have been the best test time with the standard IC.....but if you had one of these

lol....yeh I get that when I have a bit of a play around tight corners......drops rapidly then slowly goes back up!

bring it

I typed this response three times before I got a clean one....what a waist of time!!!.....but I don't suffer fools gladly!! Your right I'm an idiot as are the other 99% of this thread.....next time I want to buy or build a car to beat a 2009 spec car I'll just go out and buy a $10,000 near standard C34 Stagea. Thanks for your advice!...you've saved me a lot of money. Hey you got a chrome extension on that C34?

Let me clear it up Stagea: 240kw's ATC = approx 160kw's ATW SS Wagon:270kw's ATC = approx 180 to 190kw's ATW(corrected from the 260 I first said) F6: 310kw's ATC = 200kw's+ ATW(my guess would be 230-240kw's) Is that not what I said in the first place? "BTW you would have about 150-160kw's ATW's vs 200kw's+ for the F6 or the SS Wagon is about 180-190kw's ATW's" I'm over this! 1. It was a story to sell more M35's....and most of us no it's BS....but will still like the BS 2. A near standard C34(other than an RS260) CANNOT beat a VE SS Wagon with a 6.0lt V8.....more to the point it will not keep up to an F6(T.J's C34 would!...but so it should) 3. I am Nissan bias so it was incredibly hard for me to write the first 2 points. 4. You want to argue more go to the track or drag strip and show me the times. Standard car vs Standard car.

* you're also confusing AWkw with RWkw- I am well and truly up to speed with the differences AWD/4WD/FWD/RWD * As a rough guide, removing the front driveshaft in the stagea will give you approx 20kw extra - Yes - but no need to remove the shaft - found an easier way lol....you will need a new washer bottle though. * If you were to compare 2 otherwise identical stageas, one with front driveshaft removed, one with it in, the AWD one would be faster. The traction benefits of AWD outweighs any drivetrain loss. - If you say so....I personally think you are wrong as my M35 is 2WD ATM and it is a lot stronger in the mid to high range does not take off any quicker though. *The v8 may have a slight advantage off the line due to more torque at low revs - Turn the traction control on problem solved. Bugger wife home - have to go and cook dinner