OzLeroy

will probably come along in the morning for a bit, just got to give the GTR a good clean.

Hi All Zenith let me know this was on today and i'm keen to come along if theres space. Got to do some work the car tomorrow, so provided everything goes well i'll come along (hahaha, everything going well when working on modified GTRs ). Car is not exactly show worthy - def need to give it a bit of a clean. 01 - Donnan 32 GTR 02 - Troy 33 GTS-T 03 - Shell R34 GTT 04 - Reece 32 GTS-T 05 - Cejay 32 GTS4 06 - A20089 R33 GTR 07 - ZCR R32 GTS-T 08 - Dave R33 GTS-T 09 - Melly R33 GTS-T 10 - Luke R33 GTS-t 11 - R33_ACT (Rob) R33 GTST 12 - Michael R33 GTS-T 13 - Nathan R32 GTS-T 14 - David R33 GTST 15 - Dale R33 GTST 16 - Pat R34 GT-T 17 - zenith13 R32 GTR (maybe) 18 - Mag86 (Andrew) MR30 Ti (pending mobility /painkillers on the day) 19 - Lee DR-30 rsx skyline If new engine is running 20 - Kat R32 GTR 21 - OzLeroy R32 GTR (maybe)

Firstly I feel for you mate. I had the stock rear ceramic let go one me and it utterly destroyed cyls 4, 5 and 6 and severly damaged the pistons. For me it was the stock engine and internals but to have a freshly rebuilt engine taken out, that sucks, sorry to hear it. Check carefully for bore damage. If you get another new piston make sure its balanced with the rest of the set as others have metioned. In considering turbos, if you're after decent response i can recommend the 2860-5's, with plenty of headroom for power. good luck with the rebuild.

Knock detection with the Vipec sounds quite capable and potentially useful, a few questions though. Does the R32 GTR plugin ('V66') ViPEC unit utilize the factory knock sensors? (both or just one?) If so has anyone set this up, and whats your feeling on its operation? Or do you have to plug in a third party knock detection system? Also does the plugin (GTR) unit allow signal filtering? or is this just for the V88... Keen to see how well this works...

Thanks for the reply looks like a good result, very helpful, especially the note on cold start as these features are critical for a regularly driven car. I would have preffered to keep my car very stock except I had the unfortunate experience of stock turbos failing and taking out the engine. So now i'm running a forged engine, 2860-5's but most of the rest of the engine is stock (dumps, front pipes, AFMs, injectors, head). Although in the future, once my wallet recovers (if ever) the aforementioned items will likely be changed to allow higher power - hopefully close to 380awkw eventually. So I am really curious to see if and how nistune will handle those types of changes - AFMs and injectors particuarly - whilst maintianing the factory ECU hardware. Anyone using nistune who has changed AFMs and/or injectors (especially GTR's)? could you please comment on drivability with these changes. Keep the results and comments coming.

How are peoples results using nistune for RB26s? If you are using it on your RB26 please post engine mods and results (dyno), can't see many if any in the RB26 turbo upgrade thread. Are there any limitations when compared to other standalone ECUs (e.g. ViPEC, PFC)?

I have a solution(hopefully not already mentioned): 370Z BAM. performance specs (taken directly from Edmunds insideline test/compare with BMW 135i, link below check it out): 0.97g skidpan 5.1 seconds to 60 mph (4.9 seconds with 1 foot of rollout like on a drag strip) and the quarter-mile in 13.4 seconds at 104.6 mph braking from 60 mph= 101 feet ("Remember when a 2007 Porsche 911 Turbo with its $8,800 optional carbon-ceramic brakes brought that ultraexpensive car to a halt from 60 mph in just 103 feet?") Price: a whisker below $30,000 US Edmunds deemed this car better than the 135i... Just add the twin turbs and .... http://www.edmunds.com/insideline/do/Drive...rticleId=137806 This is very tempting... But i'll still just keep and my 32 GTR....

^+1

Ceramic turbines that have a tendency to fail.... and under just the right circumstances, take out your perfectly good engine! Thats what I hate. (Yes yes, its an old car...but still annoying)

Hi Yes I have had this happen before, however I was one of the few unlucky ones and the ceramic dust generated when the turbine smashed into the turbine housing and took out my engine. I an just getting the rebuilt engine back together now. Most people don't have this problem (engine being damaged by ceramic dust) but I think we are going to start seeing an increase in (especially R32) GTR ceramic turbo failures they are simply getting past their designed working lifetime. My engine died immediately as a result of lost compression. I was backing off at relatively low RPM when mine let go, which I'm confident is one of the only conditions which would allow significant amounts of ceramic dust into the engine. I would definitely suggest checking your compression, perhaps leak down test. I can sympathize with your situation, it sucks. Just get some garret 2860 -7's (if you stick with a std engine). Hope it all goes well.

Saw your head yesterday when i picked my engine up. Its beautiful, a work of art. I'm jealous.

Cheers Paul for all your input, greatly appreciated. I think i'll put the baffles in whilst engines out. Definitely getting N1 oil pump (probably collared R32 crank), oil restrictor and metal head gasket. Probably going with wiseco pistons and spool rods. I have a new std water pump. Probably get cams later on. Thats my current thinking.

I have decided on the back of plenty of experienced advice and analysis (cost, value for money, risk) that rebuilding the 26 is the way to go at the moment. Thank you all for your input. I'll always have the 30 bottom end sitting there for when my folks 33 GTS-t dies... Now i just have to decide on things like sump baffles, the extent of oil control measures, do i need arp main or head bolts? and many little extras.

Yeah, except for the ceramic turbos (i'm still a bit grumpy about that)... The irony is that I was settled, all I ever wanted was 270AWKW on the standard engine, until it let go. Now i figure I may as well setup a good base for future mods and have the safety factor to really thrash it when I want to. Well once its built I certainly don't want to be taking the engine out again...anytime soon at least...

Indeed, with a power curve like yours who needs an RB30 or a V8 for that matter... Agreed, there are certainly more issues with getting the damn lump back under the bonnet (especially for a an R32) and I think for my initial and somewhat humble goals even a forged bottom end in the 26 is overkill but the engine is out so I may as well. The 26 certainly seems the safer, cheaper option. If I get ambitious later on I can always call on you to do some crazy headwork .

Point taken. I am not rolling in $$$, not by any means. My GTR is my only car and I need it on the road most of the time. Also I have to keep in mind that the gearbox will not enjoy anything past 300-320 kw at the wheels in any case and I certainly won't have the money to replace the gear box anytime soon... The extra expense, time and reliability question marks not to mention the practical limits to power (such as the gearbox) are making me really question the value of the RB26/30 over the forged internal RB26 for my case anyway. Thanks Sin.

I do acknowledge the additional risk and cost factor of the RB26/30 build and I am wary of reliability. Those that own or have experience with the RB26/30, have you had any more* issues than the RB26 (other than the initial install and tuning)? I am *aiming* to have the car on the road for at least 10.5-11 months a year (note this would be a significant improvement on my current record). I have fixed a lot of the major issues - rear subframe included. The gearbox and transfer case are about the only things left to break... (touch wood). I also have a motorcycle to fall back on. Cost will end up being the determining factor.

Firstly, I may well take you up on that ride. I really want to get a good feel for the difference between the two combos so I can better judge the value for money factor. So the -10's flow more than GT-RS's? I didn't realise that. Has anyone put twin -10's or GT-RS's onto a RB26/30?

Hi guys Do i rebuild my RB26 with forged internals and 2860-5s or do I go a little more crazy (and expensive) and go for a RB26/30 hybrid perhaps with 2860-10's (or GT-RS)? I am aiming for ~270kw at the wheels initially after a tune, post rebuild. I will then chase 300-350 kw at the wheels later on (when my wallet is recovers sometime next century). I want headroom for up to 450kw down the track if I decide to go crazy. My rational is the engine is out, I may as well build it properly now and (hopefully) not have to worry about getting the engine out again. I am deciding which way to go, bearing in mind I drive my car almost daily and I want to continue doing this. I have been researching the 26/30 hybrid pretty thoroughly and I have been pretty impressed with the results I have seen. I like the idea of more torque at lower RPM and have no problem with the lower rev limit as this would hopefully limit dangerous oil pump wear. What i'd really like to do is go for a ride in a built 26 and 30 to compare them. Anyone keen to take me for a ride in their built 26? Anyone done the RB30 conversion locally (on the forums)? Any advice from people whom have built 26's or 30's would be greatly appreciated, especially anyone who has gone from a built 26 to a 30. I have only ever had my stock GTR setup , but like i said the engine is out now I may as well build it properly and then I have all the options. Also you won't see me entering the hillclimb anytime in the next couple of months Below is a copy of my entry in the post your engine failure thread. This has been Heart and Wallet breaking. GET RID OF YOUR CERAMIC TURBOS (especially if running higher boost). Engine/Car: 1993 R32 GTR Type of failure: Ceramic turbine failure leading to ceramic dust being blown through the engine (all cylinders have some dust), knackered rings, scratched/gouged bores and ceramic dust crushed into quench zone in cylinders 4,5 and 6. That's right, the block, pistons, rings and head are all damaged as well as one dead turbo. Factors influencing the failure: Ceramic turbos well past their 'service'/replacement date. NO EXTRA BOOST (in my ownership at least) State of tune of the engine: Dead stock standard engine. Highflow cat, kiakamoto 3.5inch exhaust, pipercross filter. Nothing special. Suspension and tyres: Irrelevent. Oil used and service interval: Mobil 1 every 5000km religiously. General comments: An especially painful turbo/engine failure necessitating a full rebuit and new turbos, very expensive. My advice: don't run higher than 13psi on stock turbo's as this is the service limit according to the workshop manual. Also 'service' or replace at the 100,000 interval. I ran stock boost specifically to avoid this kind of failure but it still happened. Just get rid of the ceramic turbos if you can. It should also be noted that my oil pump drive showed signs of significant wear...

This has been Heart and Wallet breaking. GET RID OF YOUR CERAMIC TURBOS (especially if running higher boost). Engine/Car: 1993 R32 GTR Type of failure: Ceramic turbine failure leading to ceramic dust being blown through the engine (all cylinders have some dust), knackered rings, scratched/gouged bores and ceramic dust crushed into quench zone in cylinders 4,5 and 6. That's right, the block, pistons, rings and head are all damaged as well as one dead turbo. Factors influencing the failure: Ceramic turbos well past their 'service'/replacement date. NO EXTRA BOOST (in my ownership at least) State of tune of the engine: Dead stock standard engine. Highflow cat, kiakamoto 3.5inch exhaust, pipercross filter. Nothing special. Suspension and tyres: Irrelevent. Oil used and service interval: Mobil 1 every 5000km religiously. General comments: An especially painful turbo/engine failure necessitating a full rebuit and new turbos, very expensive. My advice: don't run higher than 13psi on stock turbo's as this is the service limit according to the workshop manual. Also 'service' or replace at the 100,000 interval. I ran stock boost specifically to avoid this kind of failure but it still happened. Just get rid of the ceramic turbos if you can. It should also be noted that my oil pump drive showed signs of significant wear...

Silver R35 on sunday after the hillclimb heading towards QBN from Airport. Saw the Red one nissan had at the motor show and it was sweet but on the road these cars look AMAZING (oh and better in silver than red).

I'm out again :-( Can't believe my luck, my car died pretty badly on the way to work this morning. Don't know how serious it is, will be checking it out this arvo. In any case i won't be in for this weekend, i'll come and watch though. Good luck team skyline!!! Little puff of smoke then instant engine death... hope its not the oil pump or a turbo - i didn't hear any major mechanical noises so hopefully its not that bad. In any case i'm sad, never had to have my car towed.

I'm in. I'm excited!

I'd be up for that, keen to get some pro photos done of my car. I know someone with a good camera who'll likely be interested in taking some snaps for us too. I'll see what i can do.

Hi Guys, Just saw this on edmunds: http://www.edmunds.com/insideline/do/Drive...photopanel..1.* Looks like Nissan will be making a Hybrid skyline! and the guys from edmunds suggest in the article that it accellerates faster than the plain ICE version. There is some interesting hybrid drivetrain engineering included, still some optimisation but it sounds pretty good so far. It will be very interesting to see the final specs, especially mass, accelleration (0-100 + 1/4 mile), fuel economy and price of course.